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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Yes, I tested it with ACC and the engine running. What I find perplexing is that the head unit does not turn on at all when I disconnect the faceplate. What would explain that? The splices are all soldered and heat wrapped - could it be changes in the gauge of wire?

 

 

P.S. Is there a rule about whether these things should be wired in series vs parallel?

 

 

Check the pins and the harness wiring. Looks like power to HU is flowing through the faceplate somehow. Perhaps your ACC power connector to HU is not connected.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Looking great. Which RSB brackets and bar do you have there? Guessing WL bar and AVO brackets.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Correct. So I did over extend the passenger front axle. Rotating the still attached brake disc allowed it to slide back in. I'm assuming an axle rebuild/replacement is in my immediate future, is that right? Or is it possible things are good since it slid right back?

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Interesting. Happened to my front passenger axle as well. Assumed this was not an expected behavior so replaced under warranty. Curious what others experienced for future reference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Question for those who have installed the KWs - I need to remove the factory conical washer from the front oem strut assembly to install between the purple collar and the whiteline top hat, correct? I couldn't find any specific step by step and the instruction manual isn't Legacy specific.

 

 

This post was the most detailed I've seen, but he's using a pretty radical top hat solution.

Edited by seanyb505
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Yesterday the steering rack was replaced, and they noticed a ball joint was only held in by the car holding it in the control arm. So that was replaced with the rack.

 

The following alignment has everything with in spec!

 

With the weather we have, I haven't been able to notice the quicker steering, but the steering is definitely stiffer, as a new rack would be.

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Yesterday the steering rack was replaced, and they noticed a ball joint was only held in by the car holding it in the control arm. So that was replaced with the rack.

 

The following alignment has everything with in spec!

 

With the weather we have, I haven't been able to notice the quicker steering, but the steering is definitely stiffer, as a new rack would be.

 

SC

 

Which rack did you end up going with?

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Which rack did you end up going with?

 

The revised STI rack - The 34110VA121

 

And as usual, I list what I do a day late, but did the oil change when it's 30 degrees out. Which would be great if I was in Canada! :lol:

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Each air bag recall left some damage to my dash, Subaru agreed to replace the dash after I contacted the dealer after the 2nd recall, but I had to pay $100 copay (their reason was that the dash was already 17 years old). Car was garaged and only has 55k miles, service advisor said that the dash came out easily like a new car. Turned out pretty well, rattling is gone now too.

 

1st air bag recall left this crack:

1jO973Z.jpg?1

 

Crack appeared a month after the 2nd air bag recall (done by a different dealer):

TpxB2Le.jpg

Edited by bemani
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@Bemani, I too had considerable issues with the airbag recall and damage that had to be fixed by the dealer. Makes me wonder who the heck they're hiring and also what kind of shit material is being used -.-

Sorry to hear its not an isolated incident.

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@Bemani, I too had considerable issues with the airbag recall and damage that had to be fixed by the dealer. Makes me wonder who the heck they're hiring and also what kind of shit material is being used -.-

Sorry to hear its not an isolated incident.

 

Yeah I put off doing the 2nd air bag recall because the 1st one was such a disaster. They also scratched my radio the 1st time, I got about $100 from that after they told me they couldn't order a replacement. I have a double din now so I've mostly forgotten about it.

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Wondering if anybody has a quick answer before I dive back into 75 page threads:

 

Currently on STI pinks and Bilstein B8s and they are not "fun" when it's -30 outside, so I'm thinking I need something softer.

 

So, since I have a spare set, King lowering springs on stock struts/shocks, yay or nay? I'd probably add spacers to get back to stock height as well since I easily get stuck in deep snow.

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Stock wagon springs on the Bilstein struts?

 

 

The B8s are shortened for lowering springs so I don't think that would work well. I have actually thought that they are meant for more lowering than the pinks provide and don't have enough droop travel, causing some of the harshness. But that is an expensive rabbit hole to go down trying to find the bottom.

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I use the B6 with STI springs since 2 months, great mix for me. 1,5cm lower, as confortable than genuine springs on Spec B (may be more).

À way more confortable than B6 and Tein S springs I had on my previous Spec B.

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Wondering if anybody has a quick answer before I dive back into 75 page threads:

 

Currently on STI pinks and Bilstein B8s and they are not "fun" when it's -30 outside, so I'm thinking I need something softer.

 

So, since I have a spare set, King lowering springs on stock struts/shocks, yay or nay? I'd probably add spacers to get back to stock height as well since I easily get stuck in deep snow.

 

 

Running STI Pinks + Bilstein B6 for years year long. It's fine for me and in the winter winter tires and snow make the ride more sot imo. May be you need softer winter tires/pressure in them.

 

 

 

But if you have a spare set and do not mind the work to swap them back and forth, why not? Assuming lowering Koni's work with stock struts.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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The fix for my leaky header-to-uppipe gasket was delivered today

 

 

[ATTACH]294704[/ATTACH]

 

 

Nice! ELH?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Nice! ELH?

 

 

Yup, KBHH with V-band UP and Swaintech coating! Will be looking to offload the fiberglass-insulated Tomei ELH currently on the LGT when I swap these come springtime.

 

 

Last bit of winter parts hoarding (new coilovers) will probably be here in the next month as well.

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Running STI Pinks + Bilstein B6 for years year long. It's fine for me and in the winter winter tires and snow make the ride more sot imo. May be you need softer winter tires/pressure in them.

 

 

 

But if you have a spare set and do not mind the work to swap them back and forth, why not? Assuming lowering Koni's work with stock struts.

 

I kinda think I should've gone with B6s.

 

I have spare konis with king springs but the konis are not in great shape and the install in the strut bodies is not up to par. They felt pretty comfortable before I removed them, other than clunking, and they sat at about the same height as current. They felt basically stock, which is why I was wondering about the king springs on stock struts/shocks, whereas the B8s/pinks are much much stiffer.

 

My tires are X-ice Xi3s, they are old (2014), but not cracked and tread wear is nice and even, running at stock 35/33 psi in the warm garage, which means they are probably dropping to 33/31 outside in the cold. The tread feels nice and soft and not dried out but at their age I'm sure they are far from ideal.

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Yup, KBHH with V-band UP and Swaintech coating! Will be looking to offload the fiberglass-insulated Tomei ELH currently on the LGT when I swap these come springtime.

 

 

Last bit of winter parts hoarding (new coilovers) will probably be here in the next month as well.

 

 

Have you thought about bolting the turbo to the uppipe ?

 

DSCN4783.thumb.JPG.23af639ab580d688f0ce68b3a8da306d.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I bought the following kit: Gates 348532

 

That kit covers 95% of the seals. It did not contain a snap-ring for the bearing but I just reused the old one since it wasn't deformed during removal. I bought the following as well:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR6DHYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XR9D14F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

These are the final two seals needed. One is 17mm OD x 13MM ID x 2mm width & the other is 16mm OD x 12mm ID x 2mm width. One is for the pressure sensor O-ring and the other is an O-ring for that outer bolt with the spring. (I forget which one goes where but it's fairly obvious to match up the old ones with the new ones)

 

 

I just noticed that you have an 08. I bought the Gate kit and forgot to purchase the 'final two seals' you mentioned in your post :rolleyes:. Now, my kit had a seal for that outer bolt with the spring though. But yeah, no seal for the pressure sensor o-ring.

 

My pump is also slightly different than the one MrSubaru1387 refreshed:

, you will see he is changing two orings there (a blue and a green one). My pump only had a spot for the blue one.
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