xt2005bonbon Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 22 minutes ago, pleiadesfella said: it started off by dropping to 500 sometimes, then to 300, then stalling and restarting itself constantly at idle because it just can't hold it anymore. as for my spec b, I think something's really wrong with it because when driving it to the shop today, I kept it in 2nd as I took a right turn onto a main road, and suddenly the car wouldn't accelerate after the turn. the engine was still running, trying to weirdly hold idle while I was actually on the throttle, stuck in the middle of the road. only after I downshifted into first and gave it some more gas, it started to rev up and get going. the car also stalled 3 times by itself when I was trying to back out of my parking spot, and also stalled immediately when I parked at the shop while my foot was fully depressing the clutch. the motor itself runs strong with no knock from what I can tell, but all these inconsistent issues around the motor are quite annoying. starting to get tired of all these problems. Are you logging? How are your long term fuel trims? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobyDoobyDoo Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 @pleiadesfella thanks for the info….i don’t have anything like that going on thankfully. Gonna leave that one alone for now… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleiadesfella Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 4 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said: Are you logging? How are your long term fuel trims? I plug my AP in from time to time to check, and the last test I did I drove the car around the block to see af correction and af learning 1. my correction was always negative, usually at -25% and learning was constantly hovering at around -8%. I know these values aren't normal, which leads me to believe there's an intake problem somewhere. not sure of what it is yet, its either a vacuum leak or a bad o2 sensor like the subaru tuner in my region thinks. also, I once got a p0000 general misfire code alongside p0303 cylinder 3 and p0304 cylinder 4 misfire codes after cold starting the car. I cleared the codes with the AP and they haven't come back since, but it was really odd. ever since then the car has also struggled to hold a cold start idle now, where it will be around 900-1000 rpm instead of starting at 1200, then it overcorrects itself up to 2000rpm until it starts warming up. whatever's going on with it has me stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Threw on a new cowl panel yesterday. Been wanting to replace the original one for a few years now, before they quit selling them at the dealer. My hood is still at paint. I put in my seat yesterday. Waiting on a 3.3ohm resistor to come in to disable the airbag light. Fresh PS4Ss (on my 4th set now) dropped off with the freshly powder coated RPF1s. Hopping to have those by Tuesday. Threw in my carpet floor mats in place of my rubbers. Lastly, I contact-cemented the Redline shift and e-brake boots onto their plastic structures. The interior is complete! I'll post pics up on build thread after this weekend's plans. 11 MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 On 5/21/2024 at 8:00 AM, Kojak said: Soo, my undertray has been toast since a possum strike in late February. Finally got around to searching and sho nuff, my specific model needs are for a part that is discontinued. Heuberger confirmed same. Wondered if anyone has experience w either the Rallitek or Primitive Racing skid plates. Both in OR, just a few dollars difference in price. Bit overkill for my general use but lowered/clearance considerations do arise. Much as I’m tempted to run naked down under, I shudder to think what may have taken the blow without coverage. Also tired of being ‘that guy’ when I back up in the preschool parking lot. Scrapes like a somamabitch. And we’re way past zip ties here. Mine has been begging me to be retired for years now so I never put it back on after my trans swap. The oil filter cover died years ago and it has a permanent U shape from storing oil. I'll likely be buying a primitive plate next week. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 On 5/21/2024 at 11:00 AM, Kojak said: Much as I’m tempted to run naked down under Thinking more on this, I also ran without a tray for a while, and aside from the risk of some road hazard taking out your oil filter (or whatever....) I will say that the amount it helps with pressures in the engine bay shouldn't be ignored. I saw my coolant temps consistantly stay a few degrees cooler as soon as I installed the tray. I was a little surprised, but the evidence was looking right at me in the AP. I bet it would do even more when I get around to chopping the side covers off the old plastic undertray and attaching them to the sides of the Primitive one with some nutserts. Even more vacuum through the engine bay = even better cooling? 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleiadesfella Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 18 hours ago, pleiadesfella said: I plug my AP in from time to time to check, and the last test I did I drove the car around the block to see af correction and af learning 1. my correction was always negative, usually at -25% and learning was constantly hovering at around -8%. I know these values aren't normal, which leads me to believe there's an intake problem somewhere. not sure of what it is yet, its either a vacuum leak or a bad o2 sensor like the subaru tuner in my region thinks. update: the issue has been found. my perrin turbo inlet has a big leak at the BOV connection. I wrote about it in more detail in the original thread I made about the steering lock caused by a stall from failing to hold idle: alongside this, the mechanic also found a crack in my exhaust's y-pipe (which explains the oddly raspy sound that I thought was caused by the catless DP) and a possible radiator leak from the welds. the exhaust leak I don't care about at the moment and can wait but it SUCKS that I might need a new rad alongside the cost of the new turbo inlet. I just hope the coolant he saw around the rad was something else and not a rad leak, but at the same time he's probably right... I'm really surprised the exhaust leak was found only now, as the car has always sounded like this since I got it and has been through like 3 different mechanics before today, with none of them mentioning it. I guess my new shop is much more professional and thorough, which I'm very happy about. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 OEM style radiator are quite inexpensive actually. Pretty easy to replace. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Agreed, an OEM style radiator from Rockauto is cheap and it’s an easy job to swap out. I finally found the last two pieces for my EDM console swap at a local junk yard. Hopefully pull that together soon. 5 1 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleiadesfella Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 you guys are right, it's not as bad of an expense as I thought. the koyorad OEM replacement option for manual trans cars on rockauto comes out to around $120 CAD, which is much cheaper than the new inlet I need. I think I remembered the higher spec rad prices and panicked. gonna be ordering that koyorad soon. @BoozeRS05 is that the EDM facelift console swap with the round shifter surround? I'd love to see it when it's done. I prefer the facelift JDM/EDM interior so much over the old style interior we got stuck with on USDM, which is another reason why I want to import a JDM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Yep that’s the one. There are some issues with the EDM console mating nicely to the JDM double din (since it’s rhd), which I’m hoping I can make it work without too many gaps. My ocd will be going crazy if not. I also pulled this chunk of metal out of the glovebox I got and it weighs like 6-7lbs. Idk what it’s purpose is, but I’m hoping it’s not necessary. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 I'm a believer that fixing what you have will be cheaper than acquiring another 15-20 year old car, and then fixing whatever is wrong with that one. Sucks to let go of your first car. At least you were able to make that decision on your own instead of some moron in a Camry. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleiadesfella Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 yeah, I do understand an import of similar age to my spec b could also come with its own set of issues. its especially discouraging trying to translate auction sheets by myself, only to find some cars I'm interested in have power steering issues (which is a main reason why I just sold off my first car) or have suspected gasket leaks. I just don't feel good about the fact that my spec b has sat for so long, and will continue to keep mostly sitting until the inlet and rad are fixed. doesn't help that a new rust spot has developed on my spec b's rear wheel arches, despite storing it the last 2 winters alongside the many winters the last owner stored it. maybe I should just forget about trying to keep it pristine and drive it year round, that way I wouldn't have to worry about it sitting as much... its not like the JDM import would last winters here without starting to rust anyway . I think you (and @KZJonny) might just be right about the long-term costs of the import. I think I'll shelf the idea for now, and import one later down the line as a 2nd car once I have much more money saved up, just to see how it goes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 (edited) Just drive it in to the ground and patch it as you go. Every time I'm frustrated about never being able to get the car to 100%, I remember that every car I've owned had problems at one point or another so buying a different one would just be the same shit, different diaper. A brand new car loses 5k or more on day 1, and would lose tens of thousands over 10 years. The only value you get with a new car is convenience. To me, convenience isn't worth 50k. Cars are an inherently fiddly, inefficient, and frankly ridiculous form of transportation in most circumstances. And yet I love them. One of those weird quirks of being a human I guess. Speaking of which! I haven't touched my car in weeks since work has had me by the balls. I'm working through the holiday weekend but I was determined to get something done. My clutch problems are officially resolved. I was correct in my suspicion that the flexible line was disintegrating. I mean, my clutch fluid turning pitch black after a day was a pretty good indicator. The stainless one I bought was listed as 05-09 GT compatible by Subimods but it's too short. I made it work though now my engagement is at ~1/4 pedal and not at the floor. I replaced the hard line since it's $13 and it meant one less flare nut to mess with. I "readjusted" the pitch stop and overtorqued it a bit, intentionally. No more bucking when releasing the throttle. After that I snugged up the PCV plug on the intake manifold, installed a new TB hose and treated myself to a fun part. What's interesting about the Nameless BPV is that it's much quieter. I'm fairly positive mine was failing and causing overboost. I was occasionally hitting 18-19psi at WOT but now we're back at 17 in accordance with my tune. Unfortunately something still isn't quite right. I do think I figured out how to replicate the FKC spikes. I can get it to max out at -11.95 at low throttle, no boost, going up hill at 30mph in 2nd. It almost comes off as false knock. I'm leaning more and more toward fuel issue. Still, it is running better. After a good hour of heavy driving on my private race track I couldn't get it to falter no matter how much abuse I gave it. It only gets mad during normal driving. I'm fairly confident I've resolved any boost/vacuum leaks but I need to actually use the tester I bought to verify. I got the new fuel lines (thanks infosecdad) but I don't see myself getting to those until next week. If I'm still having issues, I'll move to injectors. My pump, plugs, and coils all have less than 10k on them but I guess it doesn't hurt to check. Interestingly, I got that odd cylinder 3 misfire again. Just 1. Edited May 26 by alex0856 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 I wouldn't worry about chasing a "just 1" misfire. It's when they start stacking you need to worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 1 hour ago, Infosecdad said: I wouldn't worry about chasing a "just 1" misfire. It's when they start stacking you need to worry. Agreed. If I can get this intermittent FKC to go away, I would ignore the random misfire if it stuck around. I guess I could test my knock sensor or throw on the extra one that I have but I learned years ago that vigorous MAF cleaning and knock sensor replacement are just forms of denial. Has anyone had their seats reupholstered or can advise on seat replacement? I'm a stickler for safety so aftermarket isn't an option. I've been reading that upholstery shops often won't touch seats with airbags and I'm not sure if I can run anything from other models without throwing an airbag light. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 08-14 WRX/STi driver seats are essentially plug and play. The passenger side is more difficult to wire, but bolts right in too. My driver seat was tearing badly and I’m skinny so I wanted something to hold me in better. Idgaf if they don’t match. 5 1 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 8 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said: 08-14 WRX/STi driver seats are essentially plug and play. The passenger side is more difficult to wire, but bolts right in too. My driver seat was tearing badly and I’m skinny so I wanted something to hold me in better. Idgaf if they don’t match. That is tempting, and tho I do like the comfort of my big leather seat, I am also on the bean pole side of the physique spectrum, so something that hold a little better may be an option down the road. I'll never justify racing seat money, and kind of want the airbags anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 The 2011 STi seat is so worth it, it's one of the most comfortable driver's seats I've had in a car. The passenger seat is a challenge in an '05, 06-09 is easier I think. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 1 minute ago, Infosecdad said: The passenger seat is a challenge in an '05 I think tho,that I've read the threads and it IS doable, but requires some fussing under that dash, etc... In any case, there are a few things going on there. I seldom have a passenger, so its much less of a concern, and if the drivers seat is easy to wire up then bully for me. I can live with the difference between the two seats. I'll add that to the "keep an eye out for" list. There are plenty of WRX/STi part outs near enough to me. Toronto is just down the road and the Greater Toronto Area is like 6 million people. Always someone who can't see through the vape smoke and runs into a thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 My car looks like hell so mix and match seats would be the least of my problems. I too am much narrower than the bolsters so I slide around on the leather. It's also starting to tear on the bottom left. My major problem though is that the foam is so worn down that the seat is actually painful after about 3 hours. I have to crank the butt warmer to high just to get my muscles to relax and stop cramping. Not gonna work if I plan to take a cross country trip this summer. A quick peek on ebay shows that they range from 5-600-ish after shipping for the LH seat. I assume limited seats are heated. I wonder if I could frankenstein my seat's powered rails on to the STI seat. Thanks all, I think I would have sold my car long ago if not for this site haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kojak Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Look up gelco gel seats. I never bought one but a friend left it at my place when I had a back injury and sitting was problematic. I have the ultra, fwiw. I keep it in the Legacy driver seat since forever now. I’m slender and have driven cross country many times in an 08 Outback. Driver seat doesn’t cut it. Do yourself and back a favor. It’s plush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 5 hours ago, KZJonny said: I think tho,that I've read the threads and it IS doable, but requires some fussing under that dash, etc... In any case, there are a few things going on there. I seldom have a passenger, so its much less of a concern, and if the drivers seat is easy to wire up then bully for me. I can live with the difference between the two seats. I'll add that to the "keep an eye out for" list. There are plenty of WRX/STi part outs near enough to me. Toronto is just down the road and the Greater Toronto Area is like 6 million people. Always someone who can't see through the vape smoke and runs into a thing. There are a few ways to handle it, I did the passenger seat by taking it apart and clamping the four weight sensors and stashing them under the seat so I have all the airbags but the seat side airbag. One day I may pull the '11 seat airbag and replace it with the '05 seat airbag that I saved, but I haven't felt like tearing into the seat yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Did a thing this weekend. Received my clutch kit from ZFdesign Friday. Removed the trans Friday night. Spent the whole day Saturday installing the new clutch, installing new rear main seal, driver side inner cv boot and also installed the Klein blast plates. I really had to fight to get that transmission back on the engine. Almost gave up. That step took forever. Clutch feels pretty good right now. But I am sore everywhere! Old clutch disc had missing pieces to it. Wasn't long until total failure like last time! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex0856 Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 4 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said: Did a thing this weekend. Received my clutch kit from ZFdesign Friday. Removed the trans Friday night. Spent the whole day Saturday installing the new clutch, installing new rear main seal, driver side inner cv boot and also installed the Klein blast plates. I really had to fight to get that transmission back on the engine. Almost gave up. That step took forever. Clutch feels pretty good right now. But I am sore everywhere! Old clutch disc had missing pieces to it. Wasn't long until total failure like last time! What are your thoughts on the blast plates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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