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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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Haven't made any decisions yet, still. Although my thought processes are moving at a rapid rate, I'm being sure to make the right decision.

I'll be dropping the exhaust to check exhaust valve guides on Friday. If they look good, then I'll be removing the heads to check valve clearances that evening or the next morning. If none of those things check out, I'm becoming more set to the idea of getting a reman from Sunwest in Spokane or EVAR here in Auburn. 
 

Im frustrated for you on the transmission back-and-forth. 

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Tire shopping decisions

OEM Crosstrek wheels have 225/60

OEM outback wheels have 225/55

Sparcos have 215/55 with trash snow tires needing replaced .....

 

However I've come across some 235/50 sooooo the question is what size to run on them???? 

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On 2/1/2023 at 5:49 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

You don't need to remove the heads for valve clearance check. Just remove the valve covers and check it. Maybe that's what you meant. Pretty easy really.

Whoops! That is exactly what I meant to type haha.

 

22 hours ago, s2baru said:

Tire shopping decisions

OEM Crosstrek wheels have 225/60

OEM outback wheels have 225/55

Sparcos have 215/55 with trash snow tires needing replaced .....

 

However I've come across some 235/50 sooooo the question is what size to run on them???? 

Wheel dimensions? 

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Were back to communicating as of yesterday.

He just called me making sure I really want the transgo kit in it. Concern is it is going to shift harder... :)

While we spoke I did ask if he's intending to use the factory ATF. Since the answer was no I'm going to go buy a case and take it over there. Reading up in the manual a rebuild would take 10.1 to 10.6 qt.

 

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Exhaust valve guides looked solid. No issues there. Was kind of hoping for there to be. Time to perform another compression test tomorrow morning in case of user/equipment error on the first. Then remove the valve covers and check valve clearance. Wish me luck!

10+ quarts?! Holy hell that's a lot of fluid!

Stewart, are there even summer tires that are offered in the dimensions of the OEM wheels listed above?

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I changed to a new set of tires, this time in a size better suited to the WRX wheels that are on the car, 225/45/17s. The 245/50/17s were awful with the huge sidewall. Also had the gear oil changed to motul, shifting is much smoother!
Was thinking to change out the factory cat back exhaust for something that is more free flowing and a bit louder. But the air injection pump has been deleted and block-off plates were installed on the head. It's on a Cobb AccessPort v2 currently. What is involved in re-tuning it for an exhaust? Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Edited by MadamImAdam
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Performed a valve adjustment yesterday. Cyl 3 rockers had no play at top dead center (TDC). Adjusted, and gained about 30psi on a compression test. If I remember correctly were sitting at 120/130ish now. Misfire and it's code are gone. I threw some Berryman's B12 in the fuel tank and filled up last night. I've put 60mi on the car and all is good for now, save for the P0420 code that came back. I'm suspecting a dirty duel filter, but will verify tomorrow or Tuesday. 
 

Heading down to Portland to have dinner with @Pleides this evening, so I can put miles on the newly -adjusted valves and clean off any carbon deposits laid on the stems so they can seat better. I'll recheck compression and valve adjustment early this week again in case we gaij more compression back and the valves adjust themselves further after burning off any gunk on them.

@MadamImAdam car looks good. I can't speak to the tuning after an exhaust modification (NA owner here), but check out the tuning section of the forum and there might be a better answer.

@s2baru I've heard good things about the Comps. If they make PS4s in one of those sizes, I cannot stress how wonderful the tire is. Soft sidewalls though. 

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3 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Performed a valve adjustment yesterday. Cyl 3 rockers had no play at top dead center (TDC). Adjusted, and gained about 30psi on a compression test. If I remember correctly were sitting at 120/130ish now. Misfire and it's code are gone. I threw some Berryman's B12 in the fuel tank and filled up last night. I've put 60mi on the car and all is good for now, save for the P0420 code that came back. I'm suspecting a dirty duel filter, but will verify tomorrow or Tuesday. 
 

Heading down to Portland to have dinner with @Pleides this evening, so I can put miles on the newly -adjusted valves and clean off any carbon deposits laid on the stems so they can seat better. I'll recheck compression and valve adjustment early this week again in case we gaij more compression back and the valves adjust themselves further after burning off any gunk on them.

@MadamImAdam car looks good. I can't speak to the tuning after an exhaust modification (NA owner here), but check out the tuning section of the forum and there might be a better answer.

@s2baru I've heard good things about the Comps. If they make PS4s in one of those sizes, I cannot stress how wonderful the tire is. Soft sidewalls though. 

I've also had an N/A subaru thay had a misfire from too tight valve lash (cylinder 2). After adjusting the valve lash it stopped misfiring and code went away too.

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This is good to know. Keep looking at Craigslist for a Daughter car. She's not getting my OBXT forever.

Dropped off a case of ATF to the transmission shop.

On the way remembered I had a RalliTek rear trans support stiffener.

Asked for the part over the weekend and settled on delivering it for them to press in.

Since I didn't see the car in the lot could only assume it's on a lift and waiting for the new unit install.

Barring parts unobtanium I hopefully will have the car back this week.:spin:

Edited by kzr750r1
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On 2/4/2023 at 11:06 AM, MadamImAdam said:

I changed to a new set of tires, this time in a size better suited to the WRX wheels that are on the car, 225/45/17s. The 245/50/17s were awful with the huge sidewall. Also had the gear oil changed to motul, shifting is much smoother!
Was thinking to change out the factory cat back exhaust for something that is more free flowing and a bit louder. But the air injection pump has been deleted and block-off plates were installed on the head. It's on a Cobb AccessPort v2 currently. What is involved in re-tuning it for an exhaust? Thanks!

No tuning needed for a catback. Pretty much anything else on this car requires a tune, however. Outback exhausts are a bit tricky to come by, it seems. Nameless is the only company I've ever heard of that appears to make one.

 

19 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Performed a valve adjustment yesterday. Cyl 3 rockers had no play at top dead center (TDC). Adjusted, and gained about 30psi on a compression test. If I remember correctly were sitting at 120/130ish now. Misfire and it's code are gone. I threw some Berryman's B12 in the fuel tank and filled up last night. I've put 60mi on the car and all is good for now, save for the P0420 code that came back. I'm suspecting a dirty duel filter, but will verify tomorrow or Tuesday. 
 

Heading down to Portland to have dinner with @Pleides this evening, so I can put miles on the newly -adjusted valves and clean off any carbon deposits laid on the stems so they can seat better. I'll recheck compression and valve adjustment early this week again in case we gaij more compression back and the valves adjust themselves further after burning off any gunk on them.

 

P0420 is for a system too lean, usually from an O2 sensor. My front O2 sensor has been replaced twice, FWIW. My original sidefeed injectors were also toast when they were replaced a year or two ago with my 1050X. Might be worth removing the injectors to have a shop clean and flow test them. I believe there's a shop in Spokane that can help you with that.

 

Good times seeing ya yesterday, even if that weird homeless guy decided to walk into Lardo xD

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Car is going to Surgeline on Thursday for an oil change. First oil change I've ever done on the car after more than 3000 miles! I've done a whole 3300 on the oil and I'm sure it's fine. 

Also having them lube the crossmember and front sway bar/endlink bushings. I've had the nastiest squeak from my car when it's driven for more than a few minutes for a little while now and I'm going insane. Hoping that a little lube without dropping everything from the car will solve it, but I don't have the highest hopes.

I swear that, at some point, that I had Surgeline install Whiteline subframe bushings at some point. However, after going through every single receipt for work done on my car, I just do not see records for that. I also have no record of ever purchasing the bushings myself... Just steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings, crossmember bushings, the Kartboy endlinks, the bushings included with the sway bars, and shift bushings.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

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LCA was my last Groaning set, only after chassis heat soak. Granted these are the Mevotech bushings and not very high quality that came with a cheap pair of aluminum LCA.

Waiting the cars return for swapping the stock set with new STI spec large bushings and LGT front bushing.

Probably need to get some new Moog endlinks.

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It was the issue! As described, I went down to Portland and back last night. 1 full tank (375mi) and a can of Berryman's B12 later, my misfire came back this morning on the way in to work. I'm hopeful, and will be checking the valve lash again, and performing another compression test.

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MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Hang on... If valve clearance was the issue, and you adjusted it, then the misfire should not come back? Actually, what was the valve clearance before adjustment? And what is the FSM spec? Also, was it the exhaust valve that had tight clearance? Usually it is (at least on the EJ255/257).

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3 hours ago, Pleides said:

.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

This I have also wondered!

Yeah, that guy was on one for certain. 
 

What were your mileage intervals between O2 sensor swaps? It just seems like they haven't lasted. I need to find out if there's a way to test/check the sensors before dropping $150 on a mew one. 
 

Taking the injectors from Nick's spare that I bought for $100 and more than likely sending them off, after a couple home science projects of course.

@kzr750r1I love my Moog endlinks. Meaty, and not as expensive as some of the other aftermarket options.  

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15 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Hang on... If valve clearance was the issue, and you adjusted it, then the misfire should not come back? Actually, what was the valve clearance before adjustment? And what is the FSM spec? Also, was it the exhaust valve that had tight clearance? Usually it is (at least on the EJ255/257).

It was the exhaust valves. I suspect after adjusting the first time, the valves couldn't fully seat due to carbon build up and gunk between the top of the round portion of the valve and its seat. The purpose of putting the fuel additives and driving was to break it up and clean as much as I could, and then go back in and take any more adjustment out of what the carbon build up was keeping me from doing from the first adjustment. 
 

I guess we'll find out in a couple hours though. I could be wrong. 

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1 hour ago, Febreze Mee said:

This I have also wondered!

Yeah, that guy was on one for certain. 
 

What were your mileage intervals between O2 sensor swaps? It just seems like they haven't lasted. I need to find out if there's a way to test/check the sensors before dropping $150 on a mew one. 
 

Taking the injectors from Nick's spare that I bought for $100 and more than likely sending them off, after a couple home science projects of course.

@kzr750r1I love my Moog endlinks. Meaty, and not as expensive as some of the other aftermarket options.  

I believe you can test them with a multimeter. I don't know the exact mileage that I've gotten out of them, though. Both failed without CELs, according to the one I replaced from the previous owner, and him telling me he had also recently replaced the O2 sensors before he sold me the car. Probably 30K miles maximum on the second one the car had. My third one (one I installed) is doing fine about 30K later.

 

Just woke up from a nap. Hope that was a comprehensible read.

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Cyl 3 valves have been readjusted. Compression is sitting at 110psi. 180-190 in all other cylinders. I have done everything, that I can think of, short of using a borescope, to diagnose. I think the rings on Cyl 3 are just exhausted. It is YNASB time for me!

Looking to Sunwest over in Spokane for a dressed long block. Unless anyone has any other places to recommend for EJ253 long blocks?

*I absolutely will not put anything less than reman'd/new in the car, as I planned to do so 20K miles from now anyways.*

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The block could still be fine. It could be that the exhaust valve is not seated well still, or the exhaust valve shows signs of being burned. If it was me, I would not buy anything until you can really inspect the head/valves, and then the block.

Also, when does the misfire occurs? When the engine is cold at idle? Or does it get worse when the engine is fully warmed up?

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