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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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Changed the driver side axle seal yesterday. The old one was in fact in bad shape. No leak so far. Please stay that way!

 

 

Got a notice that I received the starter brushes for the 06. Looking forward to seeing if it will fix (especially long term) the problem.

 

 

Oh, did I mention I bought a somewhat heavily modified 98 XJ on 35s for rock crawling purposes? Death wobble anyone? :lol: I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

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Today:

 

Installed new passenger power seat switch (super easy job, with the right youtube video), driver's side power window switch, 2008 Head unit / HVAC, and rear cup holder assembly.

 

On Friday dropped off the OB at my shop for stuff I was too lazy or un-tooled to do:

 

install stock (freshly rebuilt) turbo

L & R ball joints

new PS pump

 

While in there they observed that the control arm bushing on the right side was completely separated, left nearly. That's probably been the source of the clunk I've been having! Both replaced.

 

Drove home the best it's been in a long while. I need to break in that turbo over a few hundred miles. Steering felt good too, without feeling thick or sticky.

 

They were supposed to reboot the right front axle, but the axle guy they use stopped picking up his phone, so will have to reschedule that one.

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Installing a new crank pully today.

While doing some maintenance noticed it was not running true.

Looking forward to seeing if this helps smooth out the motor as the old is original.

No significant rubber delamination but if I can see the pully not running true no need for a dial indicator to prove it or find out how much... Just get a new one on there.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Just finished changing the brushes. Man they were worn out for sure. I tested the starter on the work bench and it worked fine. If there is no DIY on our forum, I'll create a quick one for it. It's pretty easy.

 

 

Check this out: the above work was performed on the 06 starter (173K). My 05 which has 159K now (type RA engine with 35K though), well you guessed it, has now the same problem; just happened yesterday!!!! I cannot believe it. And the crazy thing is I purchased another set of brushes last week just in case. Well, I am gonna have to repeat the same job this week!! That's crazy.

 

 

Interesting early symptom: slow cranking. Then, a day later, no more cranking at all unless you hit the base of the starter. I first suspected the battery but it was full and new. So could not be it.

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Maybe brought on by the change in weather? Under hood heat and hot days was a trigger for mine.

 

 

mmh. I don't know. It is getting warmer, that's for sure, but not too bad yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You have a second chance to take photos, and do a decent how to! ;-)

 

 

:lol:. That's what I thought. I did take pictures last time but not enough I think. I'll try to do a better job and take the time to post the DIY.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Need to go buy a compression tester.

Car was limped back home from my 5K loop.

Would not hold boost DAM flipping all over the place.

Bummed but it was time for major maintenance anyway. Well see soon how bad it is.

 

First rip from CA to WI was a 29 hour drive time slog. 37 hours awake.

7 fuel fills, 9 pee breaks, 100 oz of coffee.

 

https://www.relive.cc/view/vrqokrgVYyq

Edited by kzr750r1
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I didn’t sleep for 37 hours. 29 hours was just drive time. I paused the app when stopping for fuel.

 

We’ll we’re at p2227. Just tested the MAP sensor and it’s reading ok according to the book.

 

Time to start peeling back the 7 layers of hell and look more for an intake leak. Or any other shenanagins.

 

What’s odd is the oil residue covering the PCV hoses… keep in mind I used the free range hose kit on this build. The only hoses that seem to sweat oil are the head to pvc.

 

It’s time for the peel back. Compression test. Tear down. How far will be determined shortly. It’s due for a timing belt service and I’ll probably get a new 10mm oil pump. This 11mm is probably part of this pressure issue.

Edited by kzr750r1
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#4 is 90lb cold. Were hosed.

Going to be pulling it for a rebuild now not just major maintenance.

Oil left in the case is low. Oil all over the intake. Shimmery coolant (that's new)?

 

Have found the shop in the foothills that supports primarily Subaru with a machine shop.

They sound reasonable with procing and parts.

Willing to work with me as a wrenching owner.

Will pull the block down, hand over parts for inspection. Hand over the heads for evaluation and rebuild.

 

Snail performance is affiliated and who tuned the car on the dyno last.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking for help with a lowering question... I have almost all the components I need to get my OBXT to about legacy GT height (Bilstein HDs, Spec.B front springs, OBXT rear springs for now.. might go King... TBD, and of course LGT front and rear control arms). Brakes will be upgraded as well.

 

I went down the rabbit hole with considerations to swap the rear trailing arms to JDM Spec.B. I've been through a couple dozen thread and hundreds, if not thousands of posts regarding lowering. I've only found few mentions of Spec.B rear trailing arms. My specific question about the rear trailing arms, and trailing arm brackets is regarding the few comments of changing the wheel's position in the wheel well - aka, more centered. I'd also end up getting Whiteline bushings, new OEM hubs and the required longer hub mounting bolts, and ensuring I have the correct swaybar end link brackets.

 

My question: Is this notion of "wheel centering in the wheel well" achieved with the brackets alone, Spec.B trailing arms alone, or brackets plus Spec.B trailing arms?

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  • 3 months later...

You're enjoying life :).

 

Had to JB weld my TMIC Grimspeed splitter on the 05. This second one cracked at the same spot just like the first one. Also cleaned front driver and passenger side leather seats. Need to do the rest today.

Also installed new trunk lift supports on the 06.

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I created a post I think a while back when the first one cracked (see here). I'll post the pic there. I sent that first one back to Grimmspeed and they sent me a new one. Second one cracked a few months later at the same spot. Not sure what is causing it as it is hard to tell what kind of stress it is getting.

Leather cleaning? Some 'Mothers' product I think it is called 'VLR'. Not sure I really like it. I mean it cleaned the dirty spots but I did have to work at it.. Plus I don't really like the smell. I previously used 'oxy clean total interior' and this one was very effective at cleaning the seats. This time, I wanted to try something else.

And yes, tan interior. Doesn't look as good as she was when I bought it though 13 years ago :(.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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  • 1 month later...

Let's bump this good ol thread. I am not giving up :spin:

 

Replaced MAF plug with a plug from iwire. Car runs better now. Also bought some new Falken Wildpeak A/T trail for the slightly lifted outback. The Yokohama G015 are done after 40K. Also bought a Velocirax bike rack (for 5 bikes). Wallet is feeling it right now :lol:. Due to the hefty 85lbs weight of the rack and the additional weight of the bikes, the car does squat a bit. Luckily, I have Bilstein BTS struts with 500 lbs in spring rate Eibach coil where I can adjust the preload. So I did that yesterday. Hopefully, less squat on the next trip.

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Edited by xt2005bonbon
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I got questions
I got questions
I got questions
Spiritual questions

physics questions!

  1. what size hitch receiver?
  2. how does the tail not wag the dog with all the bikes leveraged off like that?
  3. how do you pay attention to the road when the bike$$$ are wobbling side to side in the rear view mirror?
  4. why does the iwire make it run better? better = smoother?
  5. how are you not freaking out about the ground clearance of the lowest bike tire? (and i see the curb, still that decent angle is practically nill!)

 

i guess some of those could still be spiritual questions depending on your faith in all this....

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