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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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I started to suspect the weird vibration sound was front wheel bearing.  Replaced passenger and its its about 50% quieter and the sound shifted from the "Center" of car to the drivers side.

Good thing I ordered two!  

Also gotta replace the park/neutral switch as I toss a CEL for that on occasion.  Trans/Diff fluids changed.  Jet Ski season is still two months out but MR2 season is right around the corner so shifting priorities for a couple weeks. . 

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Last time I was having that issue ended up getting both fronts and the axels replaced. Was the CV on one side. Tried to rebuild but it was pooched. It was a Subaru replacement.

Make sure all your tires are the close to the same diameter. There is a +/- variance. But strange things can happen to the center diff if they are not within spec.

Got a call from Heuberger that the MC rebuild kit is unobtainium right now. Time to get a complete unit on order now. Told him to cancel what I had on that order.

Already waiting for them to fulfill my hose order to replace the bits the Transmission shop Botched.

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Have some highway speed shudder in the wheel. Jacking up the car, can’t get any meaningful play in the wheels… new ball joints last fall, and they look fine still. So… I guess it’s a full diagnosis and shaking everything down to try and isolate the problem.

Can’t wait, when this is the daily for right now, and I was hoping to pull apart the GT shortly to do some repairs….

Too cold for the motorcycle as well. Timing couldn’t be better. 🙄

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Went thru a few things a couple years back that seemed to help with all of that. While getting new Moog end links on the rack added the Moovetech LCA assembly's, new ball joints and sway end links. Front hubs as well.

Also upgraded to LGT spec caliper and rotor combo.

Later the CV took a dive and Raxels rebuilds fixed it up for now.

Now that the aftermarket LCA cheep bushings groan after heat soak going back to STI LCA bushing and GT front bushing on the Stock LCA. Will probably drop in some new Mood swaybar endlinks as well, these now seem to be getting clunky.

Interesting part is the rear seems to have little to no issues. Only mods back there have been swaybar, mount support and sway endlinks.

 

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Got some digging to do. I am hoping it is just the FSB bushings which are original. I've replaced everything else in there in the past coupld years, and I am 99% sure the endlinks are newish MOOGs.

That is also the oldest wheel bearing on the car, so I wouldn't rule it out.... I did both rears in the past couple years, and I am pretty sure it was the drivers side that fron that I did last year. (I should keep better records....)

It's not major yet, like not full death wobble, but it catches me off guard when it just starts to shimmy on the highway. Seems unrelated to compression joints, turning, potholes etc... So, it seems like something harmonic? Dunno. Almost time to put the summers on, so I'll also get to see if that makes any difference. Could be something as simple as having lost a wieght on the winter rim....

 

EDIT: Crawled around underneath on break today to have another look. Failing MOOG FSB Endlink, clinks and clacks, and it's tight on both the FSB and frame.... So, it's gotta be the ball and socket joint. Dang. I looked through my reciepts and I ordered those last April, so..... knowing me, they got installed last May!

Not warranted unless professionally installed, of course. Ugh.

Ah well. The parts GT in the driveway can make yet another sacrifice.... Or, I may even have some new ones in a parts bin somewhere... OR put the G.D. Kartboys on my GT and steal one of those!

At least I can stop worrying that my wheel bearing is going to separate and kill me. FSB bushes look like hot trash as well, so they can get done soon too.Yay!

Edited by KZJonny
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^^^^^

So far so good. No death rattle on the highway to work this morning.

Still a very old car with a real dogs breakfast of mixed suspension parts up front, but it's the DD and while it's still well loved, I can't justify putting in OEM or better parts into it. So... a bit of MOOG, some Monroe struts, Beck Arnley bushings... whatever doesn't look like crap quality and is available at the time.

I won't part with the GT for anything, but if anything truly expensive were to happen to the '05 OB, I would be taking a good hard look around for something like a used Fit, or Versa or something similar that sips gas.... 10L/100km gets a little old when I seldom take advantage of the AWD or cargo capacity of the wagon in the winter....

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Glad to hear there are not any troubles!

I just got back from spending the last few weeks in Hawaii, so I got to drive the car for the first time since. That's what I did to my OB today. My new motor was picked up by a friend this morning. I'll take delivery of it at the end of the weekend. Meanwhile, my Defi gauges, AVO JDM single DIN cubby, KB pick up and baffle, ADD W1 catch can came in.

Currently, I'm working on flipping them for LHD, refreshing all the engine sensors with paint.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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If you buy a MC - 26401AG011

Buy the Seal as well! - 26497AG000.

Dammit! More waiting! Looked to be part of the MC assembly, but it's not.

Brake Booster is here.

Have some parts incoming to experiment with fuel regulator and get rid of this cobble mess. Namely 04-07 STI FPR - 22670AA351

Have the new transmission hoses, spring clamps and filter to repair the Trans chop botchery. Filter was extra but figured why not. Still weeping from their worm screw mess clamps. FFS LOL. Noticed while doing an oil change last weekend.

AEM Gauges and Earls T adapter finally arrived. Still not wanting to dedicate the cubby for gauges, but I can. Need to call SMY to see if their vent pods will work with the Legacy. Seems only offering for the WRX? But I'm sure to have seen it installed in a Legacy, on da you tubes.

Made some aluminum risers for the Primitive pan. Needed cause PVC pipe would only last so long. These were cut out of 1" Aluminum round stock.image0 (1).jpeg

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Edited by kzr750r1
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Well before I ordered a 26497AG000 figured I'd open up the Brake Booster to be sure I didn't need any more parts...

Found the oring (26497AG000) and a bunch of disclaimers...

Reinstallation of a leaking MC and removal of the check valve will void the warranty. 😕

First one I get... Second not so much.

Waiting for the STI FPR and other bits to arrive. One change at a time, this will be a nice win if this BB kills some of this cold rough idle and fuel swings I see when applying the brakes.

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Have secured Friday off to thrash on the car. Weather is giving me a window.

Brake booster and MC install on the table. Although I'm not looking forward to crawling under the dash. It will be done!

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Front drivers hub was a b@st@ard.  Wouldn't come out of the knuckle.   Ended up buying a new knuckle.  Destroyed the ball joint removing the old one from the lower arm?.

So Here I have a new knuckle, ball joint, hub, all new hardware and it was a joy going back together.    I should have spend the extra $60 on the passenger side and gone all in.

FYI - this was a "used" knuckle from Amazon.  

 

received_1292076531655527.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Mmm mmm, new parts looking good Jonny!

In other news, I turned my car into a Flintstone Mobile this afternoon.

4E1BAD5D-982D-4B9A-BBD0-B8812E644901.thumb.jpeg.1236fd3838f4a54559172473a56e0327.jpeg

It’s N/A tho, so how big of a difference does that make anyway?  😜

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I’d really like to go for a cruise in that car once you’ve got the built engine in there.

I know this site focuses on Turbo cars, (makes sense, but still..) but I still like the torque and reliability of my OBW… and it has next to no handling mods.

I can imagine set up like yours it would be a riot of a DD.

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On 4/4/2023 at 9:16 PM, kzr750r1 said:

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How do you like the Primitive pan? I was shopping around trying to find some UHMW plastic or similar to make something up for myself, and between purchase and shipping, it’s going to be like 1/2 the cost of just buying one of these….

So, when mine finally breaks, or I get angry and smash it, I’ll be looking at aftermarket for a replacement.

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My guy, I would love to take you along. Hell, I wish for you to drive it one of these days! It'll be here a while longer. 
 

Every on/off ramp get taken advantage of, and I have a lot of them in my daily commute between multiple highways. But they aren't enough, so I take a separate spirited drive almost every single day (as long as the roads are dry) —that was until my low compression woes came along. I've since only taken out once to try and break it the rest of the way with a good friend and his supercharger L.L. Bean. 
 

You said it! These are some prime reasons I enjoy the my NA. I'm also not at a stage in life where I can commit to owning the turbo variant with my life's demands. I would be living above my means, and trying to find excuses to justify it. Owning a LGT/OBXT would also keep me from owning some of the other cars I'd like to own some day —and the desire for a family and a house are already working against that. I literally drive my dream DD. I wanted exactly what I have — a 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited in Obsidian Black Pearl with a black interior, and a 5MT. It wasn't even for sale. I just started a conversation with the owner and then it became for sale. I only got lucky it was a single-owner car with stellar history. I was very much so willing to pay for this spec car, and even more so when the condition of this one was revealed.

Come down and drive it after I put 10K miles on the new engine. Serious offer! Disclaimer: It's not fast, but it is fun.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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On 4/7/2023 at 7:14 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

Did you use antiseize for next time?

Absolutely.   I get a little nervious using it on actual bolt threads for functional parts as my buddy once had a caliper fall off that was torqued to spec w/antiseize,  but anyplace that metal touches metal I do.  Back of rotors, hubs to knuckle, inside the holes for the ball joint/tie rods, and then front-end bolts like the under tray, grill/bumper, etc I use it.

Its ridiculous how much of a PITA a daily driver in NY is to work on than my 200k mile 92/ MR2 which has seen 1 NY winter at most.  in its life. 

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Good. I use antiseize a lot and put it everywhere it's needed. Saves so much time for next time you need to remove parts again. Talking about removing parts, will have to replace right rear wheel bearing. Surprised this one lasted that long (~100000K), especially with the extra weight I carry constantly and long trips with quite heavy tongue weight.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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On 4/8/2023 at 6:20 AM, KZJonny said:

How do you like the Primitive pan? I was shopping around trying to find some UHMW plastic or similar to make something up for myself, and between purchase and shipping, it’s going to be like 1/2 the cost of just buying one of these….

So, when mine finally breaks, or I get angry and smash it, I’ll be looking at aftermarket for a replacement.

It's lacking coverage and what was available when I purchased. There is no cover (wing) over the lower O2 sensor. Plus now after the killer B install the holes for oil change and filter access are useless. I normally took it our for OC anyway to inspect. There are other options. But for now it's what I have.

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So after break booster and MC the fuel trims are very different. Going to let it settle some more before talking to the tuner again about another session. Stumble is less apparent. Sucks I had this tuned with this issue in the first place.

Will talk to him some more about FPR.

On the books next?

LCA swap.

AEM pressure gauges.

Order more hoses the Trans shop squidged their crappy clamps on. Up to 12 clamps and 6 hoses now. While peeling back layers for the booster install noticed they also botched the lines to the trans as well not just the filter cooler loop side.

Edited by kzr750r1
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