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What did you do to your Outback today? V3


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I have no parking brakes.  The handle was a floppy...... yea.    Opened it up and the passenger side of the the splitter is pulled tight. Either the brake is stuck on or the cable is hung.  This should be fun.

Drivers side minimally engages too.  So I'm thinking about hosing down the mechanisms with PB and praying it'll free up.     Looks like one of my rear calipers isn't engaging or seized some, so I'll try to break that free while I'm at it.. Damn salt. 

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That sucks man. I am also troubleshooting a brake related problem. Pedal is just too mushy even with the Grimmspeed brace. Looked for leaks and I can't find any. did notice that my brake fluid level has gone down a little. I did bleed the system maybe 6 months ago. I don't think it should have gone down that much. I'll bleed that thing again..

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/17/2023 at 3:45 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

That sucks man. I am also troubleshooting a brake related problem. Pedal is just too mushy even with the Grimmspeed brace. Looked for leaks and I can't find any. did notice that my brake fluid level has gone down a little. I did bleed the system maybe 6 months ago. I don't think it should have gone down that much. I'll bleed that thing again..

I bled the system last week and tightened the brace a little more. I do admit that pedal response is a little better now.

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I think my front O2 is going out so I ordered a new Denso from Amazon.   It threw a Post CAT too lean code.

After resetting the ecu, I was watching it on BTSSM and it's making all these fuel trim adjustments (stock tune), and doesn't seem to hold the AFR at cruise the way I remember it should be able to. 

Before the reset and the code I could feel some subtle surging at cruise.  In my experience, this is what it does when the O2 fails/failing, as it the AFR sweeps left and right on the gauge, the ecu adds and takes away fuel to compensate for what is a false reading. 

We'll see if it makes a difference.   I just need to freakin sell it already.

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On 6/2/2023 at 12:45 PM, Febreze Mee said:

Between packing and moving, I just haven't had time to put in any work on either if my Outbacks. I did, however, order a Fluid Dampr crank pulley last night.

Moving sucks,  but new house and/or new location can always be good way to reset the mental state.  Like a new adventure!.  I have no time either.  Its been almost 90, sunny, and I've been kinda sick.   I did tow my jet ski to the close by smelly lake, and did a test run. 

OB handled it like a champ.  Jet ski did as well.  Win win for me. 

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Gahhhh. Can't find my 2.2k ohm resistors left over from Radio Shack purchase almost 10 years ago. I know they are in the horde but can't find what box where are in. Need to change this Mod to Stealth mode. Ordered some more from Amazonia will be here tomorrow.

On the good news side of things have been running the initial tune from Snail post brake booster replacement. DAM is sticking at 1 and there is zero hesitation before building boost like I was feeling with the revisions

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On 6/5/2023 at 8:21 PM, kzr750r1 said:

On the good news side of things have been running the initial tune from Snail post brake booster replacement. DAM is sticking at 1 and there is zero hesitation before building boost like I was feeling with the revisions

Have you been carefully comparing your actual AFR to your target AFR when MAF range is between, say 15 and 65 g/sec?

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Have not. Will see what options cobb has available for those. Long term AF all changed but within spec. Still looks like I'd benefit from another pass to true some items up. Another thought is the difference from winter fuel and summer blend.

Just finding the time to get up there is a challenge. That's an entire day out of pocket for me that I can't spare right now.

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On 6/7/2023 at 11:07 AM, xt2005bonbon said:

do you know for a fact if your tuner has adjusted your MAF scaling? Also, I can't remember: do you have an aftermarket intake or stock filter?

Frustrating part is he will not tell me what he's changing. I have all stock parts externally except for the JMP turbo and gutted up.

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14 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

Frustrating part is he will not tell me what he's changing. I have all stock parts externally except for the JMP turbo and gutted up.

Not cool :mad:.

At least, you should be able to log target and actual AFR.

Been working on the 05: I had a funny noise under boost which worried me. Turned out to be an exhaust leak between the uppipe and turbo (loose nut). Took this opportunity to address the exhaust shield rattles on the uppipe too.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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Yeah, but limited choices out here.

Haven't been driving the car.

Next week may have a local shop swap out the original (refreshed) LCA. Ball joints and endlinks. Still need to order the endlinks. Also my AC is finally not blowing cold so it's time to get some orings in stock and have the shop look for leaks.

I just have no time right now. Been working 12 to 13 hours a day. By the end there is zero motivation to go digging into the car.

 

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Got a misfire on cyl3.  Stopped after the engine made operating temp.  it got blasted down upon with water last week, so maybe water/condensation in the coilpack.     maybe?? It baked in the sun over the weekend and drove fine to the beach the other day..  came back on the ride home (luckily only 1.5 miles away).  I did order another coilpack and should be here soon. 

Fingers crossed.....

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Swapped out the not-really-that-old Denso O2 for a new Denso O2.  I've never installed an O2 in the OEM exhaust header, but found it to be cross threaded on the entry.  Trying to get it in, it would bite for quarter or half turn and then pop out.

What should have been less than 20 min took me about an hour and a half.  Turns out I have the correct 18mm 1.5 pitch tap for the O2 sensor, from back in my honda days.  The tap went in pretty easy, so it didn't do much.  But what it did do is demonstrate the angle the O2 needed to be to bite the correct threads.

Don't know if it fixed anything yet, because that extra time the job used up was all the time I had to drive it.

 

I'll drive it tomorrow and see how it looks.  I am debating whether or not to reset the ECU, or see if the tables re-learn.  Assuming the old O2 was going bad...

 

 

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Yeah I picked up a tap for mine too. Last one galled pretty bad coming out so it was time to chase the cast iron with the tap. The assuming sucks.

Were back to DAM .875 and I'm just almost over it.

Finding the time to mess with it lately is hard. Kid needs her own car.

Was poking around on CL to see what's out there in this MY/vintage. Not buying new for now. I think people are not willing to keep working on them and give up.

Know this feeling... But I will win.

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In which load/rpm range is timing pulled?

From my limited tuning knowledge, you are either running lean in some specific MAF range, and/or you are running too much timing somewhere (assuming engine is healthy, sensors are good and no vac leaks anywhere). Try logging both actual and targeted AFR. I would do that first.

 

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Yup the O2 was going out.  The new one fixed it without even resetting the ECU.  The surging between 2k and 3k seems to be gone. Although I notice I automatically avoid that rev range without even realizing I am, so I had to pay attention. 

Look like it's re-learning and adjusting the tables.  I'm watching it adjust on BTSSM, needs more time.  Still getting a bit of knock here and there, but that's been a consistent theme with my forged piston motor (Ron at Phatbotti was so frustrated with it, he jokingly suggested disconnecting it. E85 at that time....)

Happy that it's better and wasn't wasted money or time.

 

 

 

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I had a hell of a time getting the new coilpack on cyl #3. Kept thinking it was wrong because it wouldn't push in all the way.  old one went back in fine.   New one went in find without the rubber boot on it.....

Turns out its a PITA to get it lined up with the plug inside the boot and most of the time the boot was along the side of the plug.  Might have been lucky the old one went back on perfectly? 

Anyways, no more misfiring!!!
Onto the continuous clicking noise from the dash.

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4 hours ago, jonnyt88 said:

I had a hell of a time getting the new coilpack on cyl #3. Kept thinking it was wrong because it wouldn't push in all the way.  old one went back in fine.   New one went in find without the rubber boot on it.....

Turns out its a PITA to get it lined up with the plug inside the boot and most of the time the boot was along the side of the plug.  Might have been lucky the old one went back on perfectly? 

Anyways, no more misfiring!!!
Onto the continuous clicking noise from the dash.

Oh yes, I remember struggling with the coil packs.... I was swapping coil packs back to front to see if the miss-fire followed.  One went in fine, the other refused.  Thanks for the flash back!  😉

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On 6/22/2023 at 5:36 AM, jonnyt88 said:

I had a hell of a time getting the new coilpack on cyl #3. Kept thinking it was wrong because it wouldn't push in all the way.  old one went back in fine.   New one went in find without the rubber boot on it.....

Turns out its a PITA to get it lined up with the plug inside the boot and most of the time the boot was along the side of the plug.  Might have been lucky the old one went back on perfectly? 

Anyways, no more misfiring!!!
Onto the continuous clicking noise from the dash.

Good deal on the misfire issue.

I need to get into my dash as well. Have been avoiding it at this point.

Taking next week off. Will not attempt it then since I'm fighting to get the Tacoma emission compliant. Close but still not right. New CAT, plugs and O2 sensors didn't get me over the hump... New EGR is here but as I'm finding there are a couple other solinoid based vac controls that could be at fault as well... May just go to a shop that specializes in emission repair. But the guy in town is getting selective what he takes on. Well see...

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well, it was last night.

Continued working slowly to remove the engine from the OBW. Haed gaskets are failing, and while I've been willing to turn a blind eye for a while since it wasn't mixing coolant and oil, or exhaust gas and coolant (yet...), if I don't get it out of the way while I've got a quiet week in the summmer, I just know I'll end up driving it that way this winter.

Got the intake manifold off all the fasteners between the engine and trans removed. It was both harder than I expected, and somewhat easier at the same time, if that makes any sense. Tonight, or the next night I have a little free time will be when I attempt to separate the two and get the engine on a stand.

On the plus side, as I remove more stuff from around the engine and get a better look at the back side of things, the mess around the head gasket is unreal. Far worse that I could tell from casually snooping around with a flashlight, so it was definitely time. If all goes well and I don't bugger anything up in the process, it will be nice to not blow a litre of oil all over the rack and engine bay each oil change interval....

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