What did you do to your Outback today? V3

[kzr750r1]

Reset the ECU, performed the idle calibration, burning a quarter tank getting the monitors all back online.

Learning A was 7.10 but B was at or hovering around 0 and C has been .40 to -.20 ish.. Before A was 7.10 but B and C were pulling -7.10.

Still has a bit of a stumble that first time into reverse. But surely we need to look more at this tune before making any other changes. Adding the FP gauge will help ID if we still need a new FPR and or more mods to the FP power delivery.

Still need to confirm voltage to the pump. Need some wire tap adapters for my volt meter.

[jonnyt88]

2 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Good. I use antiseize a lot and put it everywhere it's needed. Saves so much time for next time you need to remove parts again. Talking about removing parts, will have to replace right rear wheel bearing. Surprised this one lasted that long (~100000K), especially with the extra weight I carry constantly and long trips with quite heavy tongue weight.

My left wrist has tendon issues and doesn't like excessive twisting/rotating, so it really doesn't like crap like this past week. 

Do you use OEM?  Between my Legacy and Outback, I feel like I never got more than 50k miles out of any rears.   I've tried a few different supposedly good aftermarket brands. 

[xt2005bonbon]

Well, it was back in 2015 . Checked my log and I think I may have used MOOG. I know I never bought OEM wheel bearings. And I've changed the front ones more often than the back.

[KZJonny]

7 minutes ago, jonnyt88 said:

My left wrist has tendon issues and doesn't like excessive twisting/rotating, so it really doesn't like crap like this past week. 

Do you use OEM?  Between my Legacy and Outback, I feel like I never got more than 50k miles out of any rears.   I've tried a few different supposedly good aftermarket brands. 

I've read rumours that the OEM is Timken anyway, but that is not something I can back up. I've got plenty of KMs on the ones (timkens)(on the OBW, and that thing hauls stuff around all the time  +plus occassionally towing my motorcycle + trailer, camping trips filled to max, kegs of beer, etc.....

The GT does less hauling, but more twisty road. I'll keep tabs on how long they last under less weight, but more.... duress?

 

[xt2005bonbon]

I've been using Timken for the front, but I keep hearing quality went down. All I care though is to find the 'NTN' stamp on the bearing, then I think they should be OK. Although I admit I recently purchased a pair of Timken front wheel bearings and they do not show the NTN stamp on them. Paid 135$ shipped for a pair. We shall see.

[Febreze Mee]

I finished putting my motor in today. I have put two miles on it. 500mi on Lucas engine break-in oil, and nothing above 3500 for the first 100mi of that. 
 

The gauges look phenomenal!! Wired them through the clock bezel, so it was easy-peazy. The Killer B pick-up and baffle give me a better peace of mind for the future miles that will be put on the car. I degreased the entire engine bay and it now looks squeaky-clean. Took some time to paint the aluminum intake manifold in wrinkle black. Installing a catch can now in line of the PCV valve and return line now.

[xt2005bonbon]

Nice work!

[rebourne]

Two miles?  How did you resist driving it more?

[Febreze Mee]

It's being driven. I couldn't resist sharing the info, so that's why it was posted with "2mi." There are 50mi on it now. Probably going to burn a tank tonight, and changed the oil. 

[jonnyt88]

I drove mine like 50miles yesterday.  Drove good.  I think its ready to slap a hitch on.  Luckily I have at least 5 more weeks until its Jet Ski season.  We are hopefully done with Snow / salt, so I'm pivoting my focus over to the MR2 so I can get it on the road. 

 

Some day I'll fix the water damage spot in the ceiling I've been talking about doing for months now.  Sounds like a good winter task   

[Febreze Mee]

Pics of the MR2?

[jonnyt88]

On 4/12/2023 at 8:10 PM, Febreze Mee said:

Pics of the MR2?

 

[rebourne]

No Tom's Scoop and no wing give the sw20 a different look.  Rear deck lid looks to be the turbo one, i don't know how else to tell visually.

[jonnyt88]

On 4/14/2023 at 8:11 PM, rebourne said:

No Tom's Scoop and no wing give the sw20 a different look.  Rear deck lid looks to be the turbo one, i don't know how else to tell visually.

 Its a bigger Frankenstein than my outback is.   But its essentially a manual-steer 93 turbo at this point.  Various pictures of my history with it below.  It had a toms scoop when I bought it. 

 

MR2

[kzr750r1]

Changed out the Purge Valve Friday. Position of it was tight so I took out the Alternator.

Of course broke the cover for the battery lead to the alternator. $20 and on it's way shortly along with the last of the ATF hoses I need to clean things up.

Was going to order a stock evap line from the manifold to the fire wall but this one has been discontinued. May have some silicon hose of the appropriate size in the horde.

Will start a conversation with my Tuner and get him up to speed where I'm at.

Also received from piercing test leads for my volt meter. Now I just need to find my volt meter and see for sure what the voltage looks like at the plug for the fuel pump while driving.

[funnyman06]

Finished tuning my 5MT swapped LL Bean. Now just on the hunt for the correct 3.0R Spec.B cluster from England. Also my 5MT output seal is leaking now, and my exhaust is bumping the original 5EAT crossmember ( which makes no sense because it fit fine before. 

 

[kzr750r1]

Curious why you didn't go for a 6MT? Bummer the seal is leaking. Never fun going back a couple steps.

[funnyman06]

4 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

Curious why you didn't go for a 6MT? Bummer the seal is leaking. Never fun going back a couple steps.

Because they are expensive haha, also I had no idea what it would take it actually make it work, just a rough idea of my path. 

[kzr750r1]

 Fair. Hence I'm still 5EAT.

[Febreze Mee]

On 4/24/2023 at 1:02 PM, funnyman06 said:

Finished tuning my 5MT swapped LL Bean. Now just on the hunt for the correct 3.0R Spec.B cluster from England. Also my 5MT output seal is leaking now, and my exhaust is bumping the original 5EAT crossmember ( which makes no sense because it fit fine before. 

 

What?! Is this documented somewhere?? What is the 5MT case number that you used? 
 

I think it was recently that I read on Outback.org that "most Subaru transmission bolt up to most Subaru blocks..." it was just a matter of working out the kinks (i.e. parts, fitment, etc.). 
 

I know that the 2nd Gen Crosstrek, and 2015+ 6MTs bolt right up to the EJ253s and EJ257s. 
 

I would really like to know everything about your swap!

[funnyman06]

On 4/26/2023 at 3:09 AM, Febreze Mee said:

What?! Is this documented somewhere?? What is the 5MT case number that you used? 
 

I think it was recently that I read on Outback.org that "most Subaru transmission bolt up to most Subaru blocks..." it was just a matter of working out the kinks (i.e. parts, fitment, etc.). 
 

I know that the 2nd Gen Crosstrek, and 2015+ 6MTs bolt right up to the EJ253s and EJ257s. 
 

I would really like to know everything about your swap!

 

Its not really documented. I used the drivetrain from a 2005 LGT ( rear diff, drive shaft, 5MT ). All my CVs worked just fine in the manual car. Being a 2005, this was probably the easiest year to swap as they were basically the same throughout the world. 

I bought the MT transmission connector from iWire and adapted the T9 connector to the 5EAT connector. This got my Neutral safety switch and reverse lights to the TCM connector under the dash, and that gave me a straight shot to the ECU. In the AT cars, the TCM gives the ECU the start permissive and it triggers the reverse light relay. So with some quick jumpers I was able to get that all working as intended. 

In the center console I had to short the key lock solenoid switch, this usually came from being in P on the AT shifter. Then I could release the key from the ignition. 

I then reprogrammed the ECU with a EDM version of an H6 MT car, killed the few codes I didn't need and BAM, it seems everything is working as intended. No CAN errors, cruise works, high lift works, AVCS works. Not sure if I had any readiness monitors yet, but that's my next investigation. 

Hardest part was doing the mechanical work on my back in the garage. The 5EAT is HUUUGE and HEAVY (I'd guess 300lbs), and I had to make an adaptor between the 5EAT transmission bracket and the 5MT transmission bracket. I did this differently than most, but so far it seems to be holding up? I don't plan on doing any clutch dumps so its likely fine. 

 

 

[Febreze Mee]

Seems a little involved, yet easy enough. The most daunting thing to me is all the TCM/ECU electronic stuff. Otherwise, I'm glad you have a working 5MT 3.0R. That's cool!

[kzr750r1]

Thanks for the write up. Now to go get mine flashed to a different rev of my tune. Daughter just came back and DAM was dipped to .0875 so Rev1 is going back in service. I need to get this back to the Dyno and a total map refresh.

[jonnyt88]

Installed a hitch and wiring harness.    Found out that my subie rumble isn't from the franken DP, but the fact that 33% of the top of my mufflers are now missing.   I took a nice shower and small snack on their rotting decaying carcasses.  Spotted a 15+ WRX cat-back exhaust locally or $150.    Anyone know if that will work or is it just the STi exhausts?  I know the Turbo placement went different but unsure how the DPs played into it. 

Either way,  hitch threads, frame, brackets it bolts in to were solid and I had it done in an hour.  I also hauled away a cargo load of garbage, as well as delivered living room furniture that I sold.    

[xt2005bonbon]

Just purchased an AEM 320 fuel pump. I hope it will fix my high rpm medium load lean condition on the 06.