FLlegacy Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 I'm working with a tuner and shop on my turbo/injectors install and tune, and they seem to think that DW1000cc injectors don't flow 1000cc. Have you guys heard this sort of thing before? This sort of thing seems crazy too me. Like, are you telling me that DW is faking their flow tests and then sending these things out. I have a hard time believing this.Dw has been known to have quality control issues. So yes I believe they would fake flow tests. You should have went with Injector Dynamics. Have them flow tested. It could also be they batch test, not individually test each injector. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Dw has been known to have quality control issues. So yes I believe they would fake flow tests. You should have went with Injector Dynamics. Have them flow tested. It could also be they batch test, not individually test each injector. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk If they have quality control issue they may be matching set of injectors by flow rate. You may have just gotten a lower flowing set. Back in the day a popular 50# injector did this. They had quite a variance so it made quite a pain to tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Adjust all (4) tire psi. The TPMS won't reset itself (driving over 44 miles). TPMS just flash a few times then stay on... If the light flashes for a minute at startup then stays on that means there is a system fault. I just went through this and it was a dying sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 I'm working with a tuner and shop on my turbo/injectors install and tune, and they seem to think that DW1000cc injectors don't flow 1000cc. Have you guys heard this sort of thing before? This sort of thing seems crazy too me. Like, are you telling me that DW is faking their flow tests and then sending these things out. I have a hard time believing this. Back in '13 when I started to build and tune my car, there already was a shun by many shops away from the DW injectors. At all this advice, I bought IDs. Now, at the same time, DWs fuel pumps were still ok. Now, shops are shunning those too. Personally my original DW 300 fuel pump was great - lasted many tunes and I racked up 150K miles on it. I just recently went and swapped it out to an AEM one since I knew that sooner or later, simply by how many miles the FP had on it, it was going to go. AWDtuning suggested the AEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 More talk with the shop. They are telling me that it is waste of money to drop a HTA68/TD05 + E85 because it will blow my engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 More talk with the shop. They are telling me that it is waste of money to drop a HTA68/TD05 + E85 because it will blow my engine.Wouldn't that depend on how you tune it? I mean I can drop a big block Chevy in my car doesnt mean it's going to be a full blown alcohol powered dragster motor. It might be a 2 barrel pulled out of a motorhome. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 More talk with the shop. They are telling me that it is waste of money to drop a HTA68/TD05 + E85 because it will blow my engine. Is that going on your stock block with however many miles? If so, I could see it stressing things out a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 Is that going on your stock block with however many miles? If so, I could see it stressing things out a bit. Stock block; 62k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 just changed my power steering fluid... instant milk shake and screeching power steering pump when i started it. to flush it i removed the return line and turned the wheel lock to lock while keeping the reservoir topped off, so all with the car off. what have i done wrong and how do i fix it? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 just changed my power steering fluid... instant milk shake and screeching power steering pump when i started it. to flush it i removed the return line and turned the wheel lock to lock while keeping the reservoir topped off, so all with the car off. what have i done wrong and how do i fix it? thanksI just siphoned out the oil from the reservoir and then added new oil, ran the steering side to side a few times then siphoned it out again, and repeat until it's as clean as new fluid. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko0422 Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I finally installed the Perrin sts adapter. Took me 3 hours to remove the pin and then another hour to remove the Oem shifter plate itself . Didn’t come off as easy as I thought. I had to remove the cross member . Does anyone know the correct torque for the 2 nuts in the middle and the two bolts that go outside in order to install the crossmember back on? I don’t want to strip anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 I believe the nuts are 26 ft-lb- I used to have a post from brandon.mol bookmarked that had a marked-up screenshot of the FSM (since that value is incorrect in the manual), but I guess I deleted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgeo13 Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Replaced pads, rotors, and brake fluid today! Back to quiet and effective braking! Also, took snow tires/steelies off and put the stock wheels with all-seasons back on, hoping for no more snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amusa Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Detailed the dashboard, door panels, center console. Took it for a drive with my son. I notice the TPMS may have a low battery (flashing and stayed on) checked all (4) PSI and there in spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 just changed my power steering fluid... instant milk shake and screeching power steering pump when i started it. to flush it i removed the return line and turned the wheel lock to lock while keeping the reservoir topped off, so all with the car off. what have i done wrong and how do i fix it? thanks The milkshake is aerated power steering fluid. Just keep the reservoir full and turn lock to lock so the fluid circulates and it will eventually clear. At least in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 The milkshake is aerated power steering fluid. Just keep the reservoir full and turn lock to lock so the fluid circulates and it will eventually clear. At least in my case. The power steering fluid demulsified over night and i did the bleed procedure properly this time. at first the wheel shook pretty badly when turning it back and forth so i let it sit for a while and did it again... felt pretty much fine. on a quick test drive the wheel felt a little funny when turning while stopped, but this morning on the way to work i didn't notice any abnormalities so hopefully all is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 The power steering fluid demulsified over night and i did the bleed procedure properly this time. at first the wheel shook pretty badly when turning it back and forth so i let it sit for a while and did it again... felt pretty much fine. on a quick test drive the wheel felt a little funny when turning while stopped, but this morning on the way to work i didn't notice any abnormalities so hopefully all is good. I've read in some cases it may take a trip or 2 to get all the air out. Looks to be sorted, good to hear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko0422 Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 I installed the perish shifter bushing today , but the gears still feel s little notch yu, might try changing the transmission fluid. Also, I went to the dealership to make sure they could do the alignment if I lower my car with the eibach springs but they said they don’t do lower cars, any recommendations on where I can get my alignment ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Fan Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Got my airbag recall done today...all is well. The dealer was little backed up so it was going to be 3-4 hours so they gave me a new Ascent as a courtesy driver I am NOT in the market for a mini van but if I was that really is a sweet ride....comfortable and pretty quick too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 More talk with the shop. They are telling me that it is waste of money to drop a HTA68/TD05 + E85 because it will blow my engine. Considering bumping down to a 16G/TD05 + E85. I don't think anybody has done it before on a 5th gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Considering bumping down to a 16G/TD05 + E85. I don't think anybody has done it before on a 5th gen. I am interested in this idea. I have looked somewhat, and haven't found good comparisons between the 18G and 16G on the 2.5. Do you have any information that I might not have? If it is really just 97% of the power and spool 300rpm sooner, then that sounds great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Spooling early is great, but you must take into account that with the motor spinning lower rpms, the cylinder pressures on the rods and crank are going to be higher than with the same boost at higher rpms. Without a built motor, cramming 18 pounds into the cylinders at 2700 rpms puts a lot more stress on the stock rotating assembly than at 3300 rpms. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Do you have any information that I might not have? Nope; I don't have any more info than that which is provided on this forum. Certainly none specific to the 5th gen. fahr_side provided the following to me in a message: Having done the r&d we decided the 16G did not offer anything useful. The 18G spoils so fast on that short factory header it's not worth the hit to power potential. If it is really just 97% of the power and spool 300rpm sooner, then that sounds great. That is basically my thought process. BNR notes that that 18G does 41 lbs/min while the 16G does 39 lbs/min. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Spooling early is great, but you must take into account that with the motor spinning lower rpms, the cylinder pressures on the rods and crank are going to be higher than with the same boost at higher rpms. Without a built motor, cramming 18 pounds into the cylinders at 2700 rpms puts a lot more stress on the stock rotating assembly than at 3300 rpms. Good point. It will be interesting to compare it to stock spooling/pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Spooling early is great, but you must take into account that with the motor spinning lower rpms, the cylinder pressures on the rods and crank are going to be higher than with the same boost at higher rpms. Without a built motor, cramming 18 pounds into the cylinders at 2700 rpms puts a lot more stress on the stock rotating assembly than at 3300 rpms. To play devil's advocate, and because I don't think I fully understand all this: Why not just set target boost much lower in the low rpm range - such as 12psi at 2500, 15psi at 3000, and full boost after 3000? Would that address the concern? On the other hand, to combat the added spool of a slightly larger turbo, you could just shift 500 rpm higher all the time, right? (once it's appropriately warmed up of course) I'm thinking that if you used to shift at 3500rpm getting on the freeway, bump it up to 4000rpm and the 18G should seem to spool similarly to your stock turbo. Does that make sense? Please don't hesitate to school me here if I have it all wrong. I'm trying to learn and be able to make informed choices about what I want for my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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