rgeo13

It is always cheaper to get it as part of your car insurance....probably less than half of that. That is what I prefer to do.

For those that got this done, and the steering rack, is that something that is covered under the powertrain warranty?

I had something similar on my 5th gen. I had a premium model, no sunroof. After torrential downpour one day I got in the car and it was super humid. After a bit I noticed a large puddle of water on the passenger front floor liner (s/o weathertech for catching it all lol). It was late at night, so I dumped it out and shined my flashlight around and couldn't figure anything out. It was passenger front floorboard only. Went to my parents house that weekend, my dad has a much larger collection of tools and knickknacks and I removed the glove box assembly, the blower motor, basically everything I could get to under the dashboard, I removed and inspected. Could not find anything at all. Inspected the A-pillar, inspected the windshield seal, everything. Could not find anything. I even got the pressure washer out and soaked allllll the way around the car at every angle just trying to figure something out...with no luck. 3 months went by and I had chalked it up as a freak but worrisome one-time incident. I was going through the automatic carwash when I heard water, looked at the passenger floor liner, and water was pooling in. It was coming from back behind the glove box, straight down, almost dripping. It was so weird. Sopped it all up and went back the next day, but I took out the glove box and under dash assembly so I could see. Same thing, waterfall from behind the blower motor assembly. I was baffled. Again, went to parents house and ripped everything out, soaked everything with the pressure washer, and came up empty. I have absolutely no idea how it was getting in, but I was worried about going through winter with water getting in up under the dash board. The last thing I wanted was water freezing up back there and messing things up electronically or with the airbag. That, along with the fact that I was within 2 years of needing a new clutch and new tires, I cut my losses, disclosed the water issue, sold it, and bought a 6th gen. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to be as informative as possible. My issue was water ONLY on the passenger front floor, nowhere else. Literally yesterday, I was scrolling facebook and saw this post in my local subaru group: "A few months ago I posted about our 07 outback having a problem with the passenger side front footwell getting wet. Well, I finally took it apart and identified what was causing it. The water was coming down the windshield under the plastic trim where the wipers park and then instead of running to either side and going down the firewall drains, it was dripping into the fresh air intake for the HVAC system. The metal above the vent had rusted and was sort of like a funnel directing all the water into the vent. I cleaned the metal up and coated everything with JB Weld to stop the rust and I added a bit a aluminum flashing to direct the water away from the HVAC vent. Problem solved." I'll try to attach the pictures he took, but, after reading this, this sounds EXACTLY like what I was experiencing in my 2011. Update: Won't let me post pictures that the guy posted on facebook. PM me your email address and I'd be happy to send them over to you!

My passenger side is justttt started to get a little cloudy right on the top part...and I have a 2017. No extended warranty. It is what it is :/ cloudy headlights really ruin the look of a car in my opinion.

Not a bad idea to throw PCV valve in there as well. $25 part and very minimal labor. I intend on doing mine every 60k when I do plugs!

Awesome thread, does Metra make a plug and play harness for the dash corner speakers, or just the door speakers? Crutchfield stated they had no harness available for front dash corner and I would have to chop wires.

The good: -Fenders look untouched -Car is older, lots of aftermarket/used parts available from a body shop perspective, so the repair may not cost as much as you'd think like it would for a newer car The bad: -As stated above, radiator core support. That's a big one there. -Looks like some damage to the condenser, if it is bent youre looking at $500 or so just in terms of AC work. Insurance company will write up a used AC condenser around 50 bucks, then evac, recharge, and labor associated with remove and replace. I think it may be close but I think they will total it unfortunately. I am a claims adjuster, I deal with this stuff daily. My advice would be to CLEAN the interior really well asap before someone comes out to take a look at it. Interior is graded based on carpets, seats, headliner, and dashboard. Most of the time they will just take photos of the driver's carpet and the driver's seat, so make sure to scrub out any salt stains in the carpet and such. Half an hour of cleaning can net you hundreds more. The condition adjustments can make significant changes in your settlement. Additionally, gather up any and all receipts of work you've put into it recently (recently being within the last 2 years or so). Make sure your adjuster gets all of that and they "should" take it into considerations. Additionally, never accept the total loss settlement without asking for and reviewing the market valuation report first. If you have any questions about it, shoot me a PM. I'd even be willing to look over the valuation and make sure everything is fair in my opinion before you accept a payout. Who is your insurance company?

I had something similar on my 5th gen. I had a premium model, no sunroof. After torrential downpour one day I got in the car and it was super humid. After a bit I noticed a large puddle of water on the passenger front floor liner (s/o weathertech for catching it all lol). It was late at night, so I dumped it out and shined my flashlight around and couldn't figure anything out. It was passenger front floorboard only. Went to my parents house that weekend, my dad has a much larger collection of tools and knickknacks and I removed the glove box assembly, the blower motor, basically everything I could get to under the dashboard, I removed and inspected. Could not find anything at all. Inspected the A-pillar, inspected the windshield seal, everything. Could not find anything. I even got the pressure washer out and soaked allllll the way around the car at every angle just trying to figure something out...with no luck. 3 months went by and I had chalked it up as a freak but worrisome one-time incident. I was going through the automatic carwash when I heard water, looked at the passenger floor liner, and water was pooling in. It was coming from back behind the glove box, straight down, almost dripping. It was so weird. Sopped it all up and went back the next day, but I took out the glove box and under dash assembly so I could see. Same thing, waterfall from behind the blower motor assembly. I was baffled. Again, went to parents house and ripped everything out, soaked everything with the pressure washer, and came up empty. I have absolutely no idea how it was getting in, but I was worried about going through winter with water getting in up under the dash board. The last thing I wanted was water freezing up back there and messing things up electronically or with the airbag. That, along with the fact that I was within 2 years of needing a new clutch and new tires, I cut my losses, disclosed the water issue, sold it, and bought a 6th gen. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to be as informative as possible. My issue was water ONLY on the passenger front floor, nowhere else. Hope this helps.

Washed, clayed, and waxed my Legacy today. Wanted to get in one last thicc waxing before snow/salt season!

Really low mileage and appears to be in excellent shape. However, for a base model, I think that is a little steep price wise.

This is a neat thread. Just bought my 6th gen a little over a month ago (previously had a 5th gen). Farthest I've had the chance to take it was Cleveland, which is 52 miles one way. Other than that, it has been restricted to work and back :/ Looking at another trip to NYC or maybe Tennessee sometime in the spring/early summer, interested to see how this one compares to the 5th gen on long road trips.

Had the same problem. Read through the old threads and saw someone used industrial strength velcro. I bought some on Amazon really cheap and slapped it in there, good as new. Also, sort of funny, I too used paper towel rolls stuffed between the headrests (all the way up) and the roof to hold it there for a while. It worked perfectly, and I would recommend that too.

Feel free to PM me if it is decided to be a "total loss" by your insurance. I may or may not be a claims adjuster (not sure if I'm allowed to say?), let's just say I'm probably an expert on the topic and leave it at that lol, and can give you some tips to help maximize that payout. Hopefully it doesn't come down to that and you'll get it fixed!!!

Nice!! Any problems with the pinch bolt?

^^x2 for blackstone lab test. $28 but can tell you a whole lot. For an extra $10 you can have them test the life of the oil to give you a better heads up on intervals. For example, if you change oil every 5k, they may say "oil looks great, try a 7k interval". Knowing how your oil holds up under your specific driving habits and engine can allow you to personalize your interval and make sure you aren't changing it too soon...or too late. Which can save you money.

From what I've seen the hardest part about the ball joint replacement is dealing with the pinch bolt. Lots of horror stories of people busting the heads off up here in rust areas. The bolt is far smaller than it should be (I believe it is a 14 mm?) making it relatively easy to bust if you aren't careful. Ive got LCA's on my to-do list for the summer, and I plan on soaking the pinch bolts in penetrating oil every day for at least a week beforehand. Might be overkill but I do NOT want to bust that nut.. Here's a great video I found of the process on a rusty 2012 impreza, pretty much the same. I intend on trying the wood technique to pound it out. My mechanic told me "good luck trying to hammer it out" and said no matter what, do not attempt to pry open the knuckle because it's possible you could crack it. Then the job becomes a lot worse!!

I have both of these "symptoms" as well. I always figured it was normal. Nothing feels "wrong" with the car to me. I also have done plugs, clean throttlebody and mac, air filter, all that. 2011 2.5i 6MT.

I'm over 1 year and 11,000 miles in on it, still feels just as buttery as it did on day 1. Even on brutal cold days we had this past winter. Try it!! If you aren't satisfied, drain and replace, and at the very least you did a solid flush for like $30.

As far as interior, I've had 2 weird sounds that I was able to track down. Wouldn't really call any a "squeak" but worth checking as it would take 3 seconds. My driver's side visor makes a teeny bit of noise over rough roads/bumps. Its the plastic slider insert thing moving around, so now that I know it isn't a big deal I ignore it. My headliner in the rear began to sag. This didn't cause a squeak but more of a flapping noise. Not sure if any of this will help. Good luck!

I would say MOST spoilers are not glued. As far as the clips, I had no luck at all, so what I did is use 3M adhesive tape and the 4 bolts. I basically put the tape all around the edges and where the clips used to be, and that with the bolts, it's more secure than it ever was, no worries at all. Also, the LED strip from the dealer was right around $105. Definitely do a lot of searching online, they can be relatively difficult to find them in stock, but you could probably get one cheaper online than the dealer. Good luck!!!

Denso Condenser was $81 on rockauto, paid $30 for expedited shipping. refrigerant, o-ring kit, schrader valve kit, compressor oil, and AC flush solvent $75 ~4 hours labor at independent mechanic ($85/hr for the guy I use) Includes leak diagnoses via UV dye test, refrigerant evac, replace condenser (requires radiator pull), flush the system with solvent (since the leak was there for over a year, clear out gunk/moisture), replace all o-rings, replace schrader valve assemblies, coolant refill, recharge of system. Comes to right about $580 but with doing the preventative maintenance (orings and valves) I shouldn't have any future problems with it...

Wanted to update this thread. The issue was definitely due to low refrigerant. Not long after I refilled, it slowly got warm again, confirming that there is/was a leak. Since it was the end of summer and AC season was coming to an end, I decided to hold off on getting it in to the shop till spring. Took it in yesterday and my mechanic found a teeny pin-sized hole in the condenser. He is replacing the condenser, all o-rings, and the Schrader valve assemblies while the system is evacuated. Might as well. For what its worth, it was cheaper for me to buy a Denso condenser on Rockauto and one day ship it to my mechanic than it was to buy an OEM, or any replacement from any local parts store. So, if anyone here ever has a similar issue, just something to keep in mind. I hope this helps!

Replaced pads, rotors, and brake fluid today! Back to quiet and effective braking! Also, took snow tires/steelies off and put the stock wheels with all-seasons back on, hoping for no more snow.

Bought snow tires and slapped em on!

I currently have my spoiler off, my replacement brake light will be here tomorrow. Did you find a remedy to the little plastic clips that bust, or were yours all reusable? I busted some and cannot find replacements ANYWHERE, I've tried auto parts stores, body shops, Fastenal, and the dealer. The Subaru dealer told me it should be included in a misc replacement clip set they sell, the kit is ~$15 and he said he didn't know how many it would include of that specific style but probably not enough. I've looked online but can't find anything without a part number, and the dealer was unable to find it for me. Thinking I'm just going to have to rig something up.