Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

cww516

Moderators
  • Posts

    1,618
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cww516

  • Birthday 12/05/1988

Personal Information

  • Location
    Central WI
  • Car
    '11 LGT, '06 Baja Sport
  • Occupation
    mechanical engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

cww516's Achievements

Mentor

Mentor (12/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

8

Reputation

  1. Chalk up another victory for the Wayback Machine- looks like the most recent archival saved the pictures: https://web.archive.org/web/20221223102952/https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/subaru-oil-filter-comparison.99130/
  2. I've been using the Wix 57712 on both vehicles for a while, and neither one has blown up, so I guess I don't have any complaints. I think my main reason for going that route was that it was new-ish (introduced the higher bypass pressure setting) and well-recommended (or at least well-hyped) right around the time I discovered that Fram makes/made the OEM filters with the same cardboard innards that they use in the OCOD. I actually bought a 12-pack a number of years ago from the link below, since both of my vehicles use the same filter- as of today, the per-unit pricing including shipping beats everybody but Rock Auto, assuming you're already ordering something else that ships from the same warehouse. Down to my last one, though, might be time to reorder... http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/wix57712.html Edit: Looks like Rock Auto would be $0.15/ea. cheaper (including shipping) if you buy 12. I have other stuff in my cart right now, and adding filters royally screwed up the shipping prices...
  3. Building on what GTEASER suggested about letting the fuel pump prime for a bit- how long do you generally wait between turning the key to the "run" position and turning it to "start"? Not that a 2007 Focus has much in common with the 5th-gen Legacy, but a friend of mine had the check valve at the fuel pump go bad, which resulted in the fuel system losing prime when the car sat for a while. Started hard if you stuffed the key in and immediately cranked the engine over, but if you stopped at "run" for a second or two, it fired right up. In that situation, the solution was to do nothing, since the check valve was part of the fuel pump carrier (and, therefore, expensive), and they were already shopping around for new cars anyway. I would assume that our cars have a similar check valve, probably also integrated into the fuel pump carrier (and, therefore, expensive), but I guess I don't know that for sure.
  4. Speaking as someone with a ~214k mile Baja with thoroughly clapped-out rear diff bushings, that's more of a solid clunk right when you engage the clutch unless you slip it just a little- those bushings are probably about 1.5" or so across the inside of the steel outer ring, and it doesn't take long for the mounting studs to slam from one side to the other. What I get in the Baja feels more like an expected bang than an unexpected bang, if that makes any sense. I can't claim to have experienced this issue in my LGT (before or after damper delete or rear diff bushing inserts), but I don't recall ever getting anywhere near the same hard clunk as I get in the Baja. I don't get it now, either, but my OTS stage 1 tune doesn't hold a candle to what you've got going on. The fact that it's only happening in higher gears would probably lead me to look at the clutch first, since that's usually where you'll start to notice a worn-out clutch slipping- direct- and over-driven ratios push back a little harder than the under-driven lower gears. Onlething to watch out for on the rear diff bushing inserts, when I did it, one of the nuts pulled the stud out with it. Not a big deal, I just put a little loctite on it when I put it back in, but it's something to be aware of. I was just looking at bushings for my Baja the other day, and based on the amount of rust under there, I don't think I have a prayer of getting the nuts off of that thing without it backing out the studs...
  5. It very well could be- the damper extends how long it takes for the clutch to fully engage, so what you're feeling could very well be the clutch slipping a little before finally grabbing.
  6. Maybe some, but probably not as much as you're hoping. I'd have to wander out to the garage to look at the one I pulled off of the Baja, but I believe those studs are both anchored into the same steel plate, so as long as that second stud is still there and tight, the bottom of the mount can't really go all that far. Not really what you'd call ideal, though, that's for sure. The Group N mount is more or less solid rubber, as compared to the OE mount that has a couple of big windows through it. Definitely helps some, but it's no silver bullet. Here's the link I have bookmarked for the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-D1010FE020-Transmission-Mount/dp/B00I7967OO ...and for comparison, here's a link to the stock one out of the Baja (should be the same as the Legacy unit- I moved the OE piece from the Legacy over to the Baja when I installed the Group N mount in the Legacy, didn't really make a difference): https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-41022AC180-Transmission-Mount/dp/B00I798SFK
  7. According to this thread, it doesn't look like Tapatalk is in the cards, or at least, not in the immediate future.
  8. I definitely looked into what I'd need to MIG weld stainless at one point. Never actually went anywhere with that, but the thought of "what if I just, you know, fried up a set of headers?" did cross my mind. I've also only used my welder twice since I bought it, both times with the little spool of flux-core wire that came with it, and I still haven't bought a gas bottle for it, but it sure does look nice at the back of the garage...
  9. Yup, generally 3 will do it. Only issue is that "drive cycle" is a pretty specifically-defined in terms of duration, engine speed, etc., and those 3 cycles need to be consecutive. My Baja has a flaky rear O2 sensor (intermittent, so it's probably the sensor heater), but since most of my driving is done around town, the light tends to stay on more often than not because I rarely hit 3 "drive cycles" in a row.
  10. You can pick up a can of mass airflow sensor cleaner for quite a bit less than that- there's 2 screws holding it in to the airbox outlet, pull it out and give it a spritz. May or may not solve the problem, but it's a good idea to do this as a routine maintenance thing. ...which reminds me, I haven't cleaned mine in a while, probably ought to get on that.
  11. I do, but the only gnarly thing about mine is the piston slap on cold starts. Edit: and the exhaust leak, too, I guess. The muffler gasket gave up the ghost at almost exactly 200k miles, and I've been too lazy to replace it.
  12. Believe it or not, the lower fuel economy with the Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage was actually a selling point for me- the little chart comparing a bunch of oils suggested that fuel economy would be better with the regular formulation than with the high mileage stuff, so I said "huh, must mean the high mileage oil is higher viscosity" and picked up a jug. No idea if that's actually the case, but I was 150 miles overdue, out of T6, and standing in the store needing to make a decision.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use