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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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Call ahead and make sure they have the parts in stock.

 

This.

 

I got the notice on Monday or Tuesday, called the dealer and they had an opening for today. It went much quicker than I thought it would. I did get some complements on the GT from a couple guys that worked there :).

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Call ahead and make sure they have the parts in stock.

 

I called today and they say they have to order the parts from Japan for the recall, so it will be about a month .....Subaru sells so few Legacys in Canada that they don't stock the recall parts. As long as it gets done I'll be okay with it....no rush.;)

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Working on a few things on the GT today. Just got the starter reinstalled after removing and lubing up the shaft. That bottom bolt is a bugger. I had to get under the car to get to it.

 

Taking a break, then PCV and 20 mm RSB.

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Can anyone offer advice or tips for replacing the master cylinder? I'm stuck unable to remove the hard line on top of it. It just seams like it's impossible to get a tool there. I've removed the clutch pedal but still can't get at it.

 

I'm taking a break now - I was getting frustrated - but I'll give it another go here soon.

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Can anyone offer advice or tips for replacing the master cylinder? I'm stuck unable to remove the hard line on top of it. It just seams like it's impossible to get a tool there. I've removed the clutch pedal but still can't get at it.

 

I'm taking a break now - I was getting frustrated - but I'll give it another go here soon.

 

Would it be possible to leave the top line attached and feed the other end through the firewall grommet?

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I just took a look, and nothing particularly obvious jumped out at me. Maybe if you unbolt the pedal box from the firewall, you might be able to get a wrench in from behind or something? Either that, or undo the line on the side, remove the hardware, and pull down a little? I did see an oval-ish cutout in the inboard side of the pedal box frame, could be that that's a passthrough for a flare wrench- with where the car is in the garage, I couldn't get the door open far enough to really wedge myself into the footwell, so I couldn't tell for sure.

 

 

Also, just got around to replacing my sun sensor. I pulled both the old and new sensors apart as far as they'd go without something breaking, and to the naked eye, they appear to be identical. That said, the chip in there is a 4.5mm square of silicon with a 1.75mm square sensing area, and I can see that there's some circuitry etched into the silicon, but I don't have a microscope or anything to be able to see if it's the same on both.

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Alright I'm done for today. I didn't get any farther. Thanks for the help, I'm going to go at it fresh tomorrow. I did look at unbolting the whole brake and clutch pedal assembly, but two of the bolts are very hard to get at behind the steering column. I didn't think that I had a low profile enough socket, but now that I'm writing this I think my pass through socket set might work.

Right now there are two hold ups: 1) the hard line on top of the master cylinder. I can get my flare wrench on it barely, but there is absolutely no room to turn it the correct way. I could tighten it 1/12 turn if I wanted tho. 2) the electrical plug on the master will not come unplugged. It seems that you have to pull it out right towards the firewall and there is no room.

 

So all signs point towards removing the pedal assembly.

 

The reason I stopped is that six jabronies got in a fist fight in the parking lot and I decided to leave the area. My girlfriend had come out to check on me, and I asked her to look at it and let me know if I was missing something obvious. Sixty seconds later I had to pat her knee and say "Hey, it's time to go right now" If I wasn't so tires and sore from the bad angles I'm sure I would have found it more entertaining.

 

I did get the slave and the new hose installed easy peasy. That part was about as simple and fast as the youtube videos made it look.

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Alright I'm done for today. I didn't get any farther. Thanks for the help, I'm going to go at it fresh tomorrow. I did look at unbolting the whole brake and clutch pedal assembly, but two of the bolts are very hard to get at behind the steering column. I didn't think that I had a low profile enough socket, but now that I'm writing this I think my pass through socket set might work.

 

Right now there are two hold ups: 1) the hard line on top of the master cylinder. I can get my flare wrench on it barely, but there is absolutely no room to turn it the correct way. I could tighten it 1/12 turn if I wanted tho. 2) the electrical plug on the master will not come unplugged. It seems that you have to pull it out right towards the firewall and there is no room.

 

 

 

So all signs point towards removing the pedal assembly.

 

 

 

The reason I stopped is that six jabronies got in a fist fight in the parking lot and I decided to leave the area. My girlfriend had come out to check on me, and I asked her to look at it and let me know if I was missing something obvious. Sixty seconds later I had to pat her knee and say "Hey, it's time to go right now" If I wasn't so tires and sore from the bad angles I'm sure I would have found it more entertaining.

 

 

 

I did get the slave and the new hose installed easy peasy. That part was about as simple and fast as the youtube videos made it look.

It is definitely no fun working under the dash. In my younger and smaller days I would have laid in the seat and worked without issue at the funky angles, but age is a mofo lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Finished everything up last night. Got the starter lubed up, PCV replaced, and engine cover finally reinstalled (broke push pins a few weeks ago).

 

Then came the rear sway bar. After 2 weeks of letting the bolts soak, all but one came loose ok. One of the endlinks stripped out the alen wrench slot (it was the last bolt on top of that). A quick search online found only 2 endlinks within a few miles. I called to verify they were there and they also were closing in 15 min. Ran over and they gave me a "shadetree mechanic" discount. Got everything bolted back up and took it for a test drive. Feels more stable and flatter in the corners.

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So I got the master changed out. It was a long tedious process and very frustrating.

 

While I was bleeding the clutch, the (new) slave cylinder puked its guts out. Total failure. I am very frustrated. Time to see what Rockauto will do.

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So I got the master changed out. It was a long tedious process and very frustrating.

 

While I was bleeding the clutch, the (new) slave cylinder puked its guts out. Total failure. I am very frustrated. Time to see what Rockauto will do.

 

Sorry it's going so rough, those tough days working on a car really sucks! I been there plenty too, time for a beer and another regroup. Good luck!

 

Where did the slave cylinder fail?

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So I got the master changed out. It was a long tedious process and very frustrating.

 

While I was bleeding the clutch, the (new) slave cylinder puked its guts out. Total failure. I am very frustrated. Time to see what Rockauto will do.

 

Are you positive you aren't also dealing with a failed clutch fork? When you say the slave cylinder puked its guts out what do you mean exactly? These types of failures aren't common in general.

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With some clutch fork failures I have noticed on Facebook groups, I am starting to think when I do my timing belt/long term maintenance I will probably order the upgraded fork and a stage 1 Exedy clutch kit. I would hate to pull the engine and then put it all back only to find out the clutch wont hold any new power I happen to find after the cam upgrades. I am also considering going a little farther on the upgrades with aftermarket cams, in preparation for a future turbo upgrade, but I want to talk with a tuner first and see where my money would be better spent.
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Are you positive you aren't also dealing with a failed clutch fork? When you say the slave cylinder puked its guts out what do you mean exactly? These types of failures aren't common in general.

 

I went back and checked, and I can freely move the end of the clutch fork. :spin:

 

FFS this is turning into a whole thing. When I first diagnosed it the clutch fork was immovable. I wonder if the slave cylinder broke it the rest of the way.

 

So I'll call Forced Air Technologies tomorrow, this is more than an apartment parking lot fix.

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Took the Legacy out and notice the low oil light came on/off on the way to the gas station and grocery store. Finally made it back home to put oil in the vehicle after I got done and closed the hood. It was snowing heavy.
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Inherited the legacy from the wife now that I set up her up in a '17 XT. Funny how that works :lol: Transferred her belongings, and began the interior cleanup/detail work that's been neglected. Pics to come this week hopefully.
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With some clutch fork failures I have noticed on Facebook groups, I am starting to think when I do my timing belt/long term maintenance I will probably order the upgraded fork and a stage 1 Exedy clutch kit.

 

Don't speak of such things.....My clutch fork was squeaking like an old iron fence till I lubed it up a month or two ago. It will be fine, no need to replace. It will last as long as the clutch....

 

At least, that is what I'm telling myself ;)

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