Fabsx

Check your dust plates behind rotors Occasionally during brakes or swapping wheels, they can get knock into the rotor causing such said noises. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always took the solid color as positive and whatever the other color is with a strip color as negative. I always tested the speakers before finalizing installation Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leaning towards possibly the coupling that goes from tmic to throttle body. What is your vacuum at idle/or boost from AP without AC on fully warmed up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Count me in 500whp lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And I copied quote from your post “If I were him, after ruling out any visible wire damage, I would have someone press the accelerator with the engine running while flexing” ^^^^^^^^^^^ Stated running But whatever, here to help anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lasfit LS plus series H7 72w bulbs Best one yet and I’ve went through a few brands to find the best. Coming from using 55w hids which could be hard to compare. Lasfit beats them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would absolutely not run the vehicle doing this! Lol It’s a maf based system, opening up the intake tract, while running will cause bigger issues. I clearly stated the same thing you stated but with the engine running. But what do I know anyways right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve seen and heard of aftermarket throttle body causing issues. Maybe pop off intake, car on but not running and have someone push the throttle pedal to the floor and verify that the actual throttle plate is opening 100% with 100% input at pedal. Just this week, had someone with a MAF code and ended up being a little fuzz inside the MAF sensor, blew it out and ran perfectly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Throttle Position sensor seems to be correlation with p0123, is the new TB Oem or aftermarket? P0102 for Maf is interesting.. remove your Maf sensor from intake and verify there is nothing inside near the wires. Occasionally a hair or bug can get stuck inside the Maf sensor causing issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get some good heat in there, the caliper bracket and heat that up vs the slider itself. It’ll heat up enough to where you can twist the slider out. If you’re careful enough, you can reuse the sliders and get rid of the rubber inside. I just normally pack it with grease. But to make it permanent, get new sliders, clean out the bracket inside with a wire brush to remove rust and your set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you can move the calipers piston in, your good If the slider pins are stuck, they wont move in and out of the caliper bracket. Typically it’s the one with the rubber boot end. Edit; given your mileage and if your going to diagnose the brakes. Flush/bleed the brakes with new fluid to justify being near the brakes again. Crack the bleeders open while to verify each caliper isn’t seized. I have issues with the slider pins seizing and sticking causing abnormal wear. I just went with brembos after that since they dont have sliders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worth checking.. something people oversight. Check your brakes. They could be sticking, seized caliper or slide pins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check fender liner What did you remove? I would jack it up, remove wheel, have someone turn the wheel, or turn it by hand with keys in acc mode to unlock wheel. That should help you narrow down to noise Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1.7” piston Or 43.18mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve seen those coating come off after some mileage. I normally use a credit/bendable card as a spacer with no issues between all the guides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long shot.. check throttle pedal. Also, does your dash show when you into park or drive? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lasfit LS Plus series h7. 72w/pair, 8000LM/pair Hands down best ones yet and have great customer care Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our coilpacks insist of three components. Coils itself, the boot and spring inside the boot. If you carefully twist off the rubber boot, you will see a spring inside. I typically would remove the spring, give it a few pulls to stretch it out about an 1” from its original length. Then alittle dielectric grease in the boot to aid the spring back in and it should make a better contact to spark reducing any misfires issues at boost. I’m sure if you look up “wrx coilpack mod” you’ll see some photos or something in that nature. I’ve ran OTL coilpacks after any Oem coilpacks good bad. Claim to be stronger spark, but can’t justify that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finished up the steering cover, install new headunit with backup camera. Also did some maintenance work, including sparkplugs, AOS lines replacement, oil change, GFB BPV on EFR turbo and added another cly4 mod but to cyl3 to help with any imbalance caused by cyl 4 only. So far, everything is great and running absolutely amazing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Verify spring inside coil boot is stretched out alittle. I’ve seen some push back far enough to cause issues in boost. I always verify I can touch them with my pinky before reinstalling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not unless you turn off wifi/internet to just install a file/remove a log Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you load them in the manager, it should state which vehicle it is for Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Clean your maf sensor, relearn ecu. Might be worth checking for vacuum leaks as well. Especially around your tmic(splitting endtanks) and tmic to throttle (known to leak given your mileage) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forgot to mentioned that my “observations” are from my external coolant gauge. Not using or looking at the factory oem one. Therefore I’m sure that my readings are indeed from the mod itself. Also, I do already have a oem lower thermostat that has been on for years before doing the cyl4 mod. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running it since my last build. It was much more work then a 4th gen GT. But it has actually brought coolant temps overall. Being with fmic, I saw 10degrees drop cruising and typically in the summer time, i would be around 200+ish. Now seeing 185-194 driving. Tuner didn’t notice anything different in timing during the tune, but who knows if it helped. More of an insurance being placed then guessing if it does anything. I’ll spend $100 any day on things that’ll “help” with cly 4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk