Merc6 Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 I'm dependent on the machine shop and getting the heads to them. Not going to make it before Christmas, so will have to be next week. Regardless, I'm motivated to get it done and out of the garage. The longer it sits there, the more shopping I do (KillerB Motorsports has too much shiny). LOL you gotta have patience, but not as much as me. My car hasn't moved on it's own power since winter 2010. Every now and then I push it up and down the driveway. I also have been eyeballing a few items from them like the oil pan. Not like we don't need to keep spare oil close by. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 LOL you gotta have patience, but not as much as me. My car hasn't moved on it's own power since winter 2010. Every now and then I push it up and down the driveway. I also have been eyeballing a few items from them like the oil pan. Not like we don't need to keep spare oil close by. What?!?! You haven't driven you car in over 4 yrs?? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Drama finally showing up. Machine shop is closed until Jan 5. So, picked up tools to measure the flatness on my own. Watching the many videos on YT is making me question putting OEM HG back on. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Drama finally showing up. Machine shop is closed until Jan 5. So, picked up tools to measure the flatness on my own. Watching the many videos on YT is making me question putting OEM HG back on. You mean like how looking up medical info on WebMD automatically leads you to believe you have teh cansurr? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Just double the head gaskets. If some is good, more is better. What's the going rate on a machinist straight edge these days? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I had mine done for $130, leak test and decking. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Just double the head gaskets. If some is good, more is better. What's the going rate on a machinist straight edge these days? figuring a machinist straight edge and a really nice level were the same thing, HF @ $10. Also bought a feeler gauge with .0015" option. Tool town is not open on Sunday. Tried a number of places that are open on Sunday only to find none of them carry a machinist straight edge. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 You mean like how looking up medical info on WebMD automatically leads you to believe you have teh cansurr? I know, I'm being Rob-2 about this. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Order one from Summit Racing. It would be here in 2 days with shipping from their Nevada warehouse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 What's the going rate on a machinist straight edge these days? I paid $150 for mine about 10 years ago. I would not trust a $10 level for this check. Not after the number of hours that you've spent getting to the point that you can pull your heads off. You can get a 24" Starrett that is flat to .0004 for about $90+shipping&tax from Enco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I paid $150 for mine about 10 years ago. I would not trust a $10 level for this check. Not after the number of hours that you've spent getting to the point that you can pull your heads off. I agree totally. Don't use a cheap feeler gauge either. And make sure to check all the mating surfaces in several locations. What's the acceptable tolerance before the heads have to be milled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 FSM says 0.035mm (0.0014") is the service limit. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 LOL The thinner than paper feeler gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 That shows you how much faith they have in their gaskets! Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I paid $150 for mine about 10 years ago. I would not trust a $10 level for this check. Not after the number of hours that you've spent getting to the point that you can pull your heads off. You can get a 24" Starrett that is flat to .0004 for about $90+shipping&tax from Enco. I agree totally. Don't use a cheap feeler gauge either. And make sure to check all the mating surfaces in several locations. What's the acceptable tolerance before the heads have to be milled? The best of Summit Racing was .002". The Woodcraft (local woodworking toy store) I picked up yesterday is .002". The feeler gauge is a $10 HF item. My theory being if it comes out "flat" with what I bought, I'll have it looked at by a machine shop. If it comes out not flat, I'm looking at new heads or running higher compression (the heads were used when I bought them). What's a cheap feeler gauge? Napa was twice HF prices and didn't have the same range. HF went to .0015. Napa was .002. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Interesting. I just assume there is some tolerance built into the feeler gauges and that the higher the quality, the less tolerance. But I guess even the HF would probably be ok. The Napa one was probably assembled in the same factory. And to check for flat, the machine shop is going to do what you are doing. If all else is good with the heads and they check out for flat and no warpage then in theory you're safe to go with them. In theory. And .0014" is crazy! Yeah, Subaru must like keeping machine shops in business. Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Since technically, your "block math" has changed after decking, or, in your case, multiple deckings, you might need these: http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2643-lic-motorsports-adj-timing-belt-idler-bearing-set.aspx or these: http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1999-crawford-cam-timing-adjusters.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 HF feeler gauges are fine. I have a set that I validated with a micrometer. You could also use the straight edge and back light it with a strong light source, if you see light at the joint between straight edge and head it needs milling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 And .0014" is crazy! Yeah, Subaru must like keeping machine shops in business. Wow. Basically what they're telling you is that if your .0015 feeler slides under the straight edge that it needs resurfacing. Although I'm more than a little surprised at the tolerance, we're in the range of NASA levels of tolerance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Oh, look what else is useful: http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2125-2004-2007-subaru-sti-and-06-wrx-cam-gear-sprocket.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Summitt Racing .001 straight edge: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cbi-56429/overview/ Please don't use a HF level !!! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Cheap feeler gauge says timing guides are .023 from timing belt. Assuming if it moves easily, it's not the right gauge. I read all the posts about what to do to the car. It never occurred to me to read all the posts on how to use the tools. Beginning to understand why the garage ppl don't laugh when they post the signs saying it costs more when you work on it first. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 HF feeler gauges are fine. I have a set that I validated with a micrometer. You could also use the straight edge and back light it with a strong light source, if you see light at the joint between straight edge and head it needs milling. John Pierce mentioned the backlighting, too. I didn't understand and assumed enlightenment would occur at some point. Point. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Summitt Racing .001 straight edge: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cbi-56429/overview/ Please don't use a HF level !!! Have a woodcraft straight bar. .002 over 24" length. Close enough for me. HF level went in the "go-back" pile. Unless there is something catastrophically wrong with the block when I get it apart, it's going to the machine shop. However, since I have a week before they open, I figured I could learn something. If I wanted to be uber paranoid, I'd get the factory tolerances for the heads. Measure them. Then decide what to do next. Going to the "mis-aligned" solution MrTris offered seems a bit extreme. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 going the slow route. Watch the , do one thing, watch the , do the next thing, rinse/repeat. Timing guides are off, in their own baggies, and marked with the clearances as found. Timing gear marking are lined up (used the HF level to make sure the marks lined up). The engine droops a bit on the stand and it's difficult to see if the marks on the passenger side are actually inline (casual viewing says no, HF level says yes). Next step, tonight, getting the belt off. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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