SBT Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Swaintech for Subaru headers is about $250.00, but that's a different level/thickness of baked on protection. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Swaintech for Subaru headers is about $250.00, but that's a different level/thickness of baked on protection. Awesome stuff. In a perfect world, everything past the compressor would be Swaintech'd. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Agreed...except the DP cat. Would love this. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 In a perfect world it's catless because water vapor Swaintech might be overkill. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 KB Holy Headers are Swaintech'd, so starting ahead of the compressor... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 KB Holy Headers are Swaintech'd, so starting ahead of the compressor... Skip the shiny side of the turbo, ST everything exhaust related... I think we agree on that. Ahead of the compressor is the turbo inlet, no? Unless we are mixing phrasology. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Even though it's meant for high temp applications it could offer some protection of items that need to keep cool. Such as FMIC plumbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Skip the shiny side of the turbo, ST everything exhaust related... I think we agree on that. Ahead of the compressor is the turbo inlet, no? Unless we are mixing phrasology. We're mixing phraseology. Definitely everything exhaust for sure. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Even though it's meant for high temp applications it could offer some protection of items that need to keep cool. Such as FMIC plumbing. Agreed, but ST is so thick that it would make making those FMIC piping tight fits and turns that need to be "tweaked," pretty tough. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yeah that is true. But it's like that with any coating. Even anodizing adds enough material that the coating needs to part of the initial engineering. Powder coating can go on thick as well and cause issues. Had a couple of parts, again on the KZ, that pushed the boundaries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Agree. Performance Coatings in Auburn did the headers on both of my BMWs. They really keep under hood temps down. Do you remember how much that was? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 toolbox is all assembled. Wife and I had to lay it on the ground and bolt it up, then lift it up right. Already moving random piles of tools into it. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Do you remember how much that was? As I said above, I don't know exactly. I am thinking they were in the couple hundredish dollars range. But they turn stuff around quick there. I know I had the headers for my 2002 back in 3 days. It's been years and the coating is holding up well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 will stop by there this week. Have to check the clearance on the up pipe, is it worth doing too? Miata pipes will interesting. Don't want the insides done, as already small diameter. However, getting the upper half of the exhaust pipe would be great. That thing gets hot enough to cook flesh (we know the hard way) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 If you have a catless up pipe, I think they will do it. Cutting under hood heat is always a good thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Drama has arrived - sheared off the AVCS bolt heads. The lower bolts have their hex notches spun out. Looking for solutions... Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Sheered where? At the pulley or the cam? Edit: Crap sorry... AVCS mounting bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 avcs bolts sheared at the start of threads. We got those out. The lower bolts sheared off the hex , so the hex head just spins. tried to dremel a bolt surface to put a large socket on it Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Just to be sure your talking about the bolt going onto the exhaust cam? Have a welder? Take a threaded rod to it and use two bolts to lock on each other for the attempt. Otherwise it's digging out the drills for a pilot hole then the size needed for an easy out and a hammer. Not a dead blow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yup, those avcs are a bitch, because they are very soft aluminum. I damaged one when I over tighten the oil cap to the front and then it started to throw a code, because there was not enough oil pressure going to the gear. Just remember to only hand tight those oil caps. They don't require a lot of tightness, just make them secured. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Just to be sure your talking about the bolt going onto the exhaust cam? Have a welder? Take a threaded rod to it and use two bolts to lock on each other for the attempt. Otherwise it's digging out the drills for a pilot hole then the size needed for an easy out and a hammer. Not a dead blow. bolts into exhaust cams, yes. Burned up my dremel trying to cut one off. The other is untouched except for the stripped hex part. no welder. kind of stuck at this point. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 tool & bolt damage report. for those of you at home, that's: 1 - Craftsman 3/8" ratchet 1 - Husky (Home depot) 3/8" breaker bar 1 - 1/2 to 3/8 converter 1 - 1/2 to 3/8 impact quality converter 1 - 10mm hex socket - the hex bit that goes in it came out 2 - Intake AVCS cam bolts (with oil hole) sheared off 2 - Exhaust cam bolts sheared hex insert This was using Company23 tools, and a 6 foot iron pipe for breaker help. IDK how Outback Auto put these on, as they don't come off. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Half inch drivers are a must here with impact rated 10mm allen. Sorry thought that was already part of the rule book. The breaker bar I used was the handle off my floor jack. Not that this is going to help you now. I know it may sound fruitless but get some large easy outs. Drill up in steps to that size. Keep it in the center as much as possible. Use a large enough crescent wrench so your breaker bar has little slop on it. Then apply pressure while someone is tapping the easy out with a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Half inch drivers are a must here with impact rated 10mm allen. Sorry thought that was already part of the rule book. The breaker bar I used was the handle off my floor jack. Not that this is going to help you now. I know it may sound fruitless but get some large easy outs. Drill up in steps to that size. Keep it in the center as much as possible. Use a large enough crescent wrench so your breaker bar has little slop on it. Then apply pressure while someone is tapping the easy out with a hammer. half inch drivers are not a standard item - looked all over for such a thing. I used a 6 foot iron pipe (no bending there). Will look for easy outs in the morning. Thinking there might a small market for those half inch 10mm allen sockets Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 4, 2015 Moderators Share Posted January 4, 2015 Someone definitely makes those 10mm allen bits witha 1/2" drive--dont recall who tho... You should definitely buy one tho and then send it along with the C23 tools when you're done "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.