boxman

This worked for me with no issues...

I just replaced the PS axle with this one: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZ91S2]Amazon.com: DriveTech SB2043 CV Drive Axle: Automotive[/ame] Right around $60 to my door. Fit is perfect, only 100 miles so far but 0 issues. took about an hour start to finish. I'll be buying a boot kit and reboot my factory axle as a back up/preventative for the DS axle. The dealership wanted $140 for both inner and outer boots, bands and grease. I told them to pound sand, I'd find it at an online dealership for a fraction of that price.

Several years ago I had a turbo fail and it didn't throw a code. I'm still kind of astounded by that...

Not too far away from 11 years. 08-27-2004

I did not have an issue with the V2 Perrin and a Venair BPV hose, fit is great.

Yes, yes it does.

Need a video, "Blood on the track"...brings back memories of drivers ed in high school...

this isn't something that can be welded and then re-machined?

Do you suppose you could use a couple of wraps of lockwire in place of the otiker clamp and have less fitment issues?

I've bought 4 cars from there, no problems ever, it's just that their parts prices are at MSRP or above if they think that they can get away with it.

I've never found Chaplin's parts prices to be anywhere close to competitive. Glad your experience is different...I guess...

Yes, there is. Automotive batteries and charging systems are low voltage and relatively high amperage.

On my Jeep I built a ground bus to go along with my power bus. Lights, electric fans, ham radio etc. all ground back to the ground bus. I don't care if it's overkill, it makes me happy.

Don't forget that you have several chassis grounds as well that push current into the body...it's not just the drive line, it's the entire car. I've often put additional grounding from the alternator to the body and the battery to the body to eliminate ground loop noise in audio components. If the audio is noisy just imagine how dirty the electrical signal is to the rest of the electronics.

The fluting is clearly rotational wear. The theory posted above is that the rotational wear at that level is due to micro pitting that is caused when electricity arcs between the balls and the race. The arcing will happen because there's not a great mechanical bond between a ball and a race, kind like a loose electrical wire can cause heat buildup and arcing. The micro pitting will occur whether the bearing is rotating or not. Once there is a pit in either the ball or the race rotation will cause the pit to transfer defects to other balls and other parts of the race. I can easily cause pitting around a poor welding ground clamp. I can also weld with a car battery, jumper cables and standard stick welding rod, so it's not like we're out of the realm of possibility on a car from either the battery or from the alternator. 12v dc at 90+amps is sufficient to throw a very strong electrical arc and vaporize metal. So, I'll stand by my statement of plausible.

Plausible. It's of concern with welding on cars or other things that have bearings that might be between the ground path and the welding arc.

That's still going to take a bit of time as the Feds would make the same bust here.

No sympathy.

It's your turn?

Unless you have something higher quality than the typical lower end torque wrenches that can be used as a ratchet within the set torque spec. The manual for my 1/2" Armstrong specifically called out that it could be used as a ratchet within the limits of the set torque.

I think that I've just gotten the right excuse for buying a spool gun for my welder....

Rattsl, +5 style points.

On my car, new bushings made 0 difference for noise, vibration or harshness and an entire world of difference for steering precision and control.

Ricers are gonna be ricers...

I'm working on teaching my kids how to diagnose based off of noises that I can't hear anymore. They can hear an air leak from across the garage that I have to be right on top of to hear.