[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete

[cww516]

Access to the clutch slave cylinder (for bleeding), but yes, the TMIC has to come out. That's probably the least painful part of the operation, though, so I wouldn't be too concerned about that step.

[foxrider28]

The damper is technically "above" the pedal. And since you're pulling the IC to bleed the system you might as well throw on an aftermarket TB hose because the stock one WILL fail eventually. It makes putting the IC back on a little bit more of a PITA but both mods are well worth it.

[Mrstacy]

The damper is technically "above" the pedal. And since you're pulling the IC to bleed the system you might as well throw on an aftermarket TB hose because the stock one WILL fail eventually. It makes putting the IC back on a little bit more of a PITA but both mods are well worth it.

 

thanks but I didn't mention I have a recent grimmspeed tmic that came with a new hose, but this is good info.

[foxrider28]

Well what are you waiting for? Get it done already you're not gonna be like GTeaser and make us wait are you? [emoji1][emoji1]

[DrD123]

eh, i definitely wouldn't say you need the flare nut wrench i did it just fine with regular spanners. i actually bought a flare nut wrench to do it and just fiddled with it for 5 minutes before asking myself "why the hell do i need a flare nut wrench? this thing looks like it'll come off with a regular wrench just fine" and it did.

The main reason you use a flare nut wrench on hydraulic fittings is because they are hollowed out, and if you load two faces with a regular wrench, they will tend to ovalize a little bit, and sort of lock themselves into place (which is why folks tend to round them off - as you apply more force with the wrench, you deform the nut more, locking it more firmly into place, until the wrench slips and you round off the nut - hydraulic fittings aren't usually high strength materials, either, which exacerbates the issue) - the flare nut wrench grips all around the nut, the way a socket does - and minimizes the chance of them binding/failing.

 

With an interior fitting, there isn't a buildup of corrosion/oxidation like you see at the brakes, so the threads are easier to work with, and less likely to cause a problem - however, if they are in there too tight (from whenever they were installed) you can still have the same problem.

 

It's the same basic theory to using a strap wrench.

[brandon.mol]

The damper is technically "above" the pedal. And since you're pulling the IC to bleed the system you might as well throw on an aftermarket TB hose because the stock one WILL fail eventually. It makes putting the IC back on a little bit more of a PITA but both mods are well worth it.

 

FWIW, since Subaru has a revised part for the TB hose/coupling that doesn't have/need the stupid fart-gaskets, one could just buy that part from Subaru. Its probably cheaper than the Perrin part and since bursting it isn't an issue, just as good/better since fitment is guaranteed not an issue like some people have with the Perrin part (though that's usually because the T-Bolt clamps they supply are a tiny bit small).

[Mrstacy]

Finally got the time, courage and tools to get this done. It took me an absurd amount of time mostly because I was going to replace the PCV valve, but after pulling a few hose clamps, I couldn't find it.

 

Then on the CDV. The TMIC came off quickly enough (already gone for PCV valve hunt). Put some rags in the driver foot well and put a strap on the clutch peddle as many have suggested so brake fluid didn't squirt everywhere.

 

Then I used a vacuum brake bleeder to get most of the fluid in the line out. It worked well if the goal was to prevent it from squirting in the foot well, but not good if you don't know what to do once the fluid is in the jar and you want to put it back!!

 

Anyway. I ran into an immediate problem in that I didn't have a deep 12mm socket. More time lost looking for an extension, but luckily I found one. A short socket can't clear some of the hardware in front of it.

 

Then the hardest part was the clutch lines in the footwell. You only have one hand and are at an awkward angle. The light wrench feels like a 50 lb. weight after 2 turns and having to turn it and reposition the wrench for the next turn. If there is a ratcheting one of these, I would suggest it. The lower clutch line comes off relatively easy in comparison to that top one.

 

The instructions are correct to note the angle of the line on the clutch damper. When I put the damper in the vise to loosen the remaining line, I was careful to situate it, so I could remember how the line was supposed to go. I even hand tightened it on the union and took it to the car for a test fitting. (also because I couldn't remember what side the removed gusset was supposed to go on)

 

I then put the union back in place, but I didn't tighten it since I might need to adjust the lines connections. The line connections went back in pretty easily. Luckily, I was able to hand tighten the lines so I could be sure that I wasn't cross threading.

 

All done, right? Wrong, not if you don't know how to get that fluid back in the clutch line. So, I wasted more time trying to find a YouTube on how to do this. I used this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UmyCoG7Lms

 

So at this point, I just disconnect the vacuum brake bleeder and dump the old brake fluid. I then filled the slave reservoir with some new fluid (DOT 4 as suggested here) and call my 12 year-old son in for reinforcements.

 

Ok, see that pedal on the floor, lift it up when I say and put it down when I say. like simon says. We do this 6 or 7 times and I turn the bleeder valve when the video says to. After a while, he complains, he can't push it down, so I think it is working. Also, I'm having to add fluid to the slave cylinder.

 

I let him go back to watching TV and I check the clutch and it seems just as before!

 

I put the TMIC back on and turn the car on to check for any CELS (thinking I left a hose loose while on my PCV Valve hunt), but all was good.

 

It is about 10pm, now, but I have to take it for a spin, right? So, back it out. First thing you notice is that, you feel the vibration of motor under your left foot. The vibration seems to correspond with the exhaust, so if you have muffler delete, you'll get a real good foot tickle for sure.

 

Once on the street, I put it in 1st and as others have said, you can feel the grip of the clutch. I was expecting to have to re-learn how to drive the car, but it was the same as before but only more feel. I didn't have to change my left foot power or range at all.

 

The 1 to 2 Shift felt equally good with no guessing as to when to let the clutch go. You felt the engagement.

 

Thanks to the gentleman writing the initial instructions (OP?) and all of you that left tips. Hell has frozen over because if I can DIY this one, then most anyone can.

[brandon.mol]

Good job. I know, from personal experience that this job was a bit daunting. But getting it done is extremely gratifying both in terms of the result but also the DIY experience.

 

+2 internet points!

[GTEASER]

Good job Mrstacy!! I knew you could do it! Enjoy!

[BigBopper]

Finally got the time, courage and tools to get this done. It took me an absurd amount of time mostly because I was going to replace the PCV valve, but after pulling a few hose clamps, I couldn't find it.

 

Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project.

 

BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.

[Mrstacy]

Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project.

 

BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.

 

 

Thanks. I'll try that next time I have time to tinker a bit.

[linksusmaximus]

FWIW, since Subaru has a revised part for the TB hose/coupling that doesn't have/need the stupid fart-gaskets, one could just buy that part from Subaru. Its probably cheaper than the Perrin part and since bursting it isn't an issue, just as good/better since fitment is guaranteed not an issue like some people have with the Perrin part (though that's usually because the T-Bolt clamps they supply are a tiny bit small).

 

I know this is the wrong thread, but to add to this - I can't know for sure if this part (see attachment) is the "revised" part you're talking about (it doesn't really specify if it comes without the couplers on each end, nor if it is [i would assume] longer?).. BUT, either way, it's listed at about $56. Then add the hose clamps at $8/ea and you're at $72 pre-ship. Perrin lists their coupler + clamps at $63 pre-ship. If I decide to buy, I think i'm just going to go with the Perrin piece. Hopefully the "ENG" to "ITR" fix handles any headache..

 

Anyway, I may be doing the clutch damper delete very soon with a buddy who has a 4th gen. He's doing his too. Which now makes this relevant!

[brandon.mol]

That's probably the old part. It looks like it has the gaskets. The new one has no gaskets and is presumably longer and slightly smaller in diameter. If the price is close, it probably doesn't matter which you get really.

 

This is indeed off topic. I suppose I started it.

[ripstik]

That's probably the old part. It looks like it has the gaskets. The new one has no gaskets and is presumably longer and slightly smaller in diameter. If the price is close, it probably doesn't matter which you get really.

 

This is indeed off topic. I suppose I started it.

 

the old one works just fine without the "gaskets" i'm willing to bet there are no differences and they just decided to get rid of there built in failure mode that were the gaskets

[MGT]

Didn't expect to see this in this thread but I have got to add that mine is dryrotted, cracked and blown out which caused a HUGE leak.

 

http://i.imgur.com/MVB4rhR.jpg

 

I'm not taking the risk with the OEM replacement and the Perrin one seems to be actually cheaper with a 10% coupon. (PMKNSPC, HEATWAVE, etc...)

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-tmic-coupler-throttle-body-hose-227224.html

[GTEASER]

Please take the TB hose discussion to the appropriate thread gents.

[reeg420]

Wow it amazes me this thread is still getting responses. Awesome ��

Congrats on the moderator promotion Gteaser!!

 

I'm still driving the legacy. Still have this done btw.

[GTEASER]

Good to hear from you reeg!!! The guys who have done this are loving it.

[covertrussian]

Finally did the delete on the 2.5i Outback myself, an excellent mod! Clutch engagement is much more consistent now. Was able to remove the clutch delay valve without removing the whole line, though maybe I should have to save the wrists.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/Delay%20Valve/CDV_003.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/Delay%20Valve/CDV_006.jpg

 

What's up with the little weight on the line that goes outside?

 

I also finally did the delete on my 05 legacy, left delay valve is the 2005 one and right is the 2012 one. 2012 one is much bigger and explains why it sucks more compared to older cars.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/12%20OBP/Drivetrain/Clutch%20Line/Delay%20Valve/CDV_005.jpg

[atccf]

Just got my 2010 LGT last week and just ordered the delete part today. Thanks for all the great information in this thread. I will be doing this as soon as possible after I get the part.

[smash209]

I would like to play devil's advocate here. I have been driving stick for many years and to my knowledge all previous cars have not had a damper/delay valve. I am finding the low and vague engagement point to be a bit annoying.

 

I would consider deleting this valve but I do like the idea that it offers the driveling some protection if myself or a friend does something stoopid! I don't expect to dump the clutch, but sometimes road rage kicks in.

 

Others have mentioned the damper is smaller on the wrx with nearly the same engine/trans combo. Is there any value in swapping in a damper with less volume for less effect?

 

I think it would be ideal to swap in something that is truly unnoticeable in normal driving conditions. Thoughts?

[GTEASER]

The damper on the 5th Gen is unique. Most of the other Subaru's with dampers have them located directly on the master cylinder, thus the smaller size as shown in covertrussian's pics above. Ours is a separate unit on the hard piping between the m/c and slave cylinder. I'm not sure you would get a 4th Gen or WRX m/c to fit where ours is located, and then you'd need to do some custom piping. Not worth even attempting it IMHO.

 

Of the dozens of guys on here that have done the damper delete, no one yet has broken an axle or popped a transmission as a direct result of this mod. Just do the mod and be happy the vague engagement point is gone.

Edited April 11, 2017 by GTEASER

[monstorr]

TY for reminding me about this! I've been sitting on that part for a little while and completely forgot about it!

[cww516]

I think we have a damper at the master cylinder as well- as I recall, it restricts flow when you're lifting your foot, whereas the inline one would mostly affect pedal feel when you're putting the clutch in. Assuming that's the case, you'll still have some road rage protection without this damper in there, but pedal feel will be substantially better.

[GTEASER]

I think we have a damper at the master cylinder as well- as I recall, it restricts flow when you're lifting your foot, whereas the inline one would mostly affect pedal feel when you're putting the clutch in. Assuming that's the case, you'll still have some road rage protection without this damper in there, but pedal feel will be substantially better.

We do not have one at the m/c. There is a flow restrictor in the slave cylinder. To my knowledge, Islandborn is the only one who has modded the slave cylinder to remove it.

 

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