fedaykin Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 It's actually very common on Japanese cars. My 2000 Infiniti G20 had the damper too, I bypassed it when I installed a new stainless steel braided clutch line, no flex at all anymore in the clutch hydraulic system Same thing on my R32 GT-R (same "fix" as well after the rubber hose split). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 On a scale of 1 to 10, how hard is this. i have an estimate of $260.  Is there any mod which i can add while he has everything apart that makes sense? I have to buy the correct tools which i see on page 1, but that is less than $50.00, but i only use once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subakook Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Glad I stumbled on this thread. Funny, the first time I've ever heard of a clutch damper was just the other day. Watching a video of this guys 20B RX7. He showed where he actually added a damper in the clutch line b/c rough engagement with his beast clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Glad I stumbled on this thread. Funny, the first time I've ever heard of a clutch damper was just the other day. Watching a video of this guys 20B RX7. He showed where he actually added a damper in the clutch line b/c rough engagement with his beast clutch. Well due to the cost and the technicality, i may be have CD for a while. But at least one person sees it as being useful. When everyone agrees on something, i begin to worry. I'm from Las Vegas, so when everyone says this team will win, start looking at the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 I'm from Las Vegas, so when everyone says this team will win, start looking at the other side. In this case tho, the other side is premature clutch wear. I guess if you don't plan on having your car long then maybe this won't matter? If you've driven manual transmission cars for awhile, then I guess I can't see how youre ok with the floaty clutch engagement point. All the benefits of the delete have been stated here so I won't repeat myself, but doing this mod definitely makes shifting better. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 ^^ i'm just sad that i have to wait. i have the part, but don't want to pay almost 300 to get it done. How much is a clutch. maybe i can justify it to my significant other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Iirc when I had my cdv delete installed by the local subie dealership, it was around $100-150 My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Iirc when I had my cdv delete installed by the local subie dealership, it was around $100-150 Wow. I am so biased against dealerships that I forgot about them. I'll email my contact there and see what he says. Thanks "Z" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) Make an appt with Gteaser's garage and take a mini vacation to California, lol! I think he has done a few of these.  But really this part is not hard to install, a pain to get to, but otherwise pretty straight forward. If you diy, make sure you purge out the line of fluid before you break the fittings loose under the dashboard. Do that and there is almost no mess. Have a can of brake cleaner on hand just in case, it deactivates the corrosive properties in brake fluid in case it gets on anything. Edited September 22, 2016 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGT Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 It's really not that difficult at all. Just uncomfortable for a little while... No need to pay someone to do it; Just lay down a towel and and be careful not hit the clutch while you have the lines disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 It's really not that difficult at all. Just uncomfortable for a little while... No need to pay someone to do it; Just lay down a towel and and be careful not hit the clutch while you have the lines disconnected. The first page mentions special tools and bleeding lines which I have no experience. I can see me attempting to drive and the clutch won't engage. If I can get it done for 100 bucks it is well worth it to be done right. One has to know his DIY limits. *chuckle* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 I used a Mity Vac self bleeder which was super super easy. First time for me and only took 5 minutes. Pedal feels better than before I started. No reason to raise the car. Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1JPlxb62W0XB6Â The first page mentions special tools. Did you need any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxrider28 Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 No "special" tools really required. All you need is a wrench/socket for the mounting bolt, a line wrench for the lines (could use a regular one but a line wrench is better), and a fluid vac or a 2nd person to help bleed the system. It shouldn't take more than an hour to complete the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 ^^^ Is this a line wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 With the self bleeder and wrench, i'm looking at 60 bucks just in one-time use tools. Leaning on an expert for sure now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 The first page mentions special tools. Did you need any? I have done 3 of these, my car, amidroc's car and swannee225's car. Actually swannee225 did most of the work himself. You for sure need a quality 10mm flare nut wrench for the flare nuts on the hydraulic pipes. That's the only "specialty" item I had to use. You also need a 10mm box end, a length of 5/32" clear hose and a jar to bleed the slave cylinder. Other than that, all I needed was a bench grinder to cut the gusset off one side of the union. Some people didn't even do that, but I believe in making things fit and function perfectly as if it was designed that way originally. I think I also used a turkey baster to get as much fluid out of the m/c reservoir as possible first to minimize the mess in the footwell. I was able to easily bleed the system with the help of a friend pushing the pedal and pulling it back up. Make sure not to let the reservoir run dry while bleeding, or depressing the clutch pedal until you get the entire system closed up after the install. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 You need a flare nut wrench. Don't use a regular open end wrench on the hydraulic hard lines, you'll round it off and then you're screwed. You don't need the bleeder, just a friend. If you have a 10mm box end, and a 10mm socket, you can do this for less than $10 in new tools. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTT0/GM0040/N1975.oap?ck=Search_N1975_-1_3555&pt=N1975&ppt=C0216 GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 I have done 3 of these, my car, amidroc's car and swannee225's car. Actually swannee225 did most of the work himself. You for sure need a quality 10mm flare nut wrench for the flare nuts on the hydraulic pipes. That's the only "specialty" item I had to use. You also need a 10mm box end, a length of 5/32" clear hose and a jar to bleed the slave cylinder. Other than that, all I needed was a bench grinder to cut the gusset off one side of the union. Some people didn't even do that, but I believe in making things fit and function perfectly as if it was designed that way originally. I think I also used a turkey baster to get as much fluid out of the m/c reservoir as possible first to minimize the mess in the footwell. I was able to easily bleed the system with the help of a friend pushing the pedal and pulling it back up. Make sure not to let the reservoir run dry while bleeding, or depressing the clutch pedal until you get the entire system closed up after the install.  eh, i definitely wouldn't say you need the flare nut wrench i did it just fine with regular spanners. i actually bought a flare nut wrench to do it and just fiddled with it for 5 minutes before asking myself "why the hell do i need a flare nut wrench? this thing looks like it'll come off with a regular wrench just fine" and it did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 For lines inside a car, you're probably right, but a flare nut wrench is better. Gets you way better engagement on more flats, so there's less chance of rounding off the nut, and you'd need at minimum a hacksaw and a flare tool to recover from that, if not a whole new line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 eh, i definitely wouldn't say you need the flare nut wrench i did it just fine with regular spanners. i actually bought a flare nut wrench to do it and just fiddled with it for 5 minutes before asking myself "why the hell do i need a flare nut wrench? this thing looks like it'll come off with a regular wrench just fine" and it did. You go a head and play with fire then sonny. I would never use a regular open end wrench on a hydraulic system flare nut. You're asking for trouble because the first time that open end wrench slips off, you're past the point of no return and a flare nut wrench won't even work for you, you're relegated to vise grips, cursing, mashing the fitting and leaks upon reinstall. I can't stress enough the importance of proper tools. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 It's always best to use the proper tool, especially in a case where rounding off the flare fitting is gonna be a royal pita. But, yes it is possible to do it with a regular wrench. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Just because it's possible to jump off the roof into the pool, doesn't mean that nothing catastrophic can happen. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Wow. I am so biased against dealerships that I forgot about them. I'll email my contact there and see what he says. Thanks "Z" Dealer won't do this job. I might attempt when I have a couple of days, a backup car and the proper tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B005BT90DI https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81645-10x12mm-Flare-Wrench/dp/B0014ZXTSA/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474682283&sr=1-7&keywords=10mm+flare+nut+wrench If this takes you more than a couple hours, with a meal break I would be shocked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 ^^^ I can test any diy time estimate trust me. 2 days in case I get frustrated or need a tool and store is xlosed. 2 cars to drive to store. Â This is in driver area below peddle right. But for access to reservoir tmic need removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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