foxrider28

So I haven't been around for a while and my car has done its service very well for me. I would love to keep it but life has changed and I just dont drive it anymore so it's up for sale. I will post in the FS section asap just wanted to get the word out to you guys here. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1006367563841737/

Agree, ordered from them for nearly a decade and have only had 1 issue with a mirror on my 04 titan.... same tow mirror has 3 different connectors for each trim level..... hmmm....

The listings on RA as with many other sites specify "4 pins". Yes you "cant" call RA but you can email as I did inquiring about it and was told the listings are based off the MFG specs and I'm 100% aware of stock photos. Also RA only has 1 of the fans the blades are different and they only list the 5 blade But when every single reseller lists the same mfg specs what do you do... well I emailed Dorman directly and got "crickets" (so far) after stating the issue. Here is one of the fans from them p/n 621-354. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-47533-621-354.aspx Shows/specs a 4 pin connector with 5 blade fan The other one is p/n 621-355 https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-47533-621-355.aspx This one shows the correct 2 pin connector but also 5 blade fan. Problem is finding actual stock of this with 7 blades too. This site is probably the best complete list I found. https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2010/subaru/legacy/climate_control/a-fs-c_condenser_fan_assembly.html The 2 pin pictures you see are mostly of the 2.5i connector. I have found some (old) listing on Ebay and Amazon showing the correct connector but most of those say "unavailable" and they also show both the connector styles. As for non-factory options I really don't want to go this route since the car is essentially 100% stock other than a few driveability improvements. I'm not so opposed to ordering a dorman unit I just wanted to find out IF any 4th/5th gen 2.5 turbo owner has order one and got the right part. As for Napa/AZ/etc.... I tried this and they tried to give me a 2.5i fan which is what thier site says is "exact fit". The 2.5i plug has female blade pins.... the 2.5gt has 2 male blade pins..... the 3.6r has the 4 male blades.... I'm planning to take the car to my body shop this week to schedule warranty paint work and I'm going to ask them to look into this too. They have come through on finding me (right) hard to find parts before. Luckily they can order and return it for "free" if it is wrong.

So..... Nobody here has ordered correct (oem) radiator fans for a GT? I see USED motors and fan assemblies all over ebay so I'm assuming these used part suppliers know the scarcity? Sure it's wise to use mfg parts but when the cost is 2 if not 3 times that of a full assembly aftermarket it's hard to justify $300+ for this on a car that is worth ~$5k... well $7k+ now with current used car prices.

So about a year ago I had a run in with some high water which caused the fan motors to fail and led to draining and killing my very expensive (but free to me) Odyssey battery. Once I finally figured out the fans where the problem is when the real fun began. I usually go to Rockauto for parts like this however they list and verified that the fans they stock have 4 "pins" and not 2 pins such as the 05-12 GT uses. I searched everywhere and found the same issue. Ended up with junkyard parts from an '05 Legacy GT wagon. This post is simply to inform any 05-12 LGT/OBXT of the potential problem with AM part suppliers. The motor alone from Subaru is around $140 avg. An aftermarket fan assembly is listed for $60-$120 Problem is the connectors are wrong on 99% of them. I did have a list of AM mfg P/Ns but I've lost it. So if someone here has ordered the fans for a 2.5 GT from RA or other sites and can confirm that they are right it would help future "me" from having a set of wrong fans that the seller (carparts.com) can't seem to get 2 shipping labels right for 3 months now.... a whole other story...

I see the same thing in both my LGT and the opposite in my Titan. I have mountainous interstate though so the mpg readout can change week-to-week depending on weather/air temp changes. In the Titan I get better a avg @ 75 then I do @ 70/80 or below/above.... So I stick to 75 in the truck and 70 in the LGT, mostly because the interstate limit is 65 mph and the LGT attacts state troopers more then the truck does. Since most cops around here hate Subarus with hood scoops because 90% are driven by "kids" that think 25 mph over is the only way! But to local police it's ok for huge trucks to drive 20+ over.... even though it's 5 x's more dangerous....

And I thought my "loose lugnuts" story was just an off base blab. Then here you are making it 100% relevant. Glad to see you found the issue. Since its new to you and If you've still got a "warranty" of some sorts or even if not it doesn't hurt to ask the dealer/seller to help cover the costs. Most dealers will have a tech do an inspection and they either did the damage or knew of it and will fix it for free. But If it was a private seller then they may have not known.

Definitely pull the wheel of and check your brake pads. I had a similar issue with a rock getting stuck behind the brake shield and rotor (I drive on gravel roads quite almost daily). Also had a very bad day once, I got a flat on the right front (driver side here in the US) and was in a rush to move the rear to the front and put the spare on the rear (as one should always do on FWD or AWD) and I forgot to tighten the front lugs all the way. I drove 35 miles (mostly interstate) to work with no problem and on the trip home I noticed a major shake and the wheel was doing exactly what you are experiencing. I doubt the wheel is lose in your case I would suspect brake pads or something between the sheild. Btw welcome to the group "finally" I was just like you and lurked here from around 2008 till I bought my 2010 LGT in 2015 and finally became a member. Also please share pics we ENVY your body style over here.

Yeah took a 2nd set of hands but it went on after a good day in the sun and a few good curses.. Realized calling it names just made it tense back up [emoji1787]

This exactly because all the AM ones cross to the same Subaru PN yet they are clearly not the same length.... I get it that each MFG has to be a little different but Subaru says thier belt fits all '10-'14 2.5 (GT or i) and 3.6 Legacy's/Outback's. As does most auto part resellers list the same belts for all years/models. Still couldn't get the "650" on by myself was able to with 2nd set of hands but wasn't easy like it should be....

This or go with the gates 651 PN... See my posts in the "what did you do" thread about issues with the 650 PN belt... I'm attempting it again today with a continental 5060650 PN belt that came in a TB kit and will update how it goes.

^This is why I got a '10 vs chasing a '12. That plus it was 10mi away. I knew I'd be driving the wheels off my car and in the lower salt belt (albeit very few times in the winter it's still used here). So I couldn't justify doing that to one of the last 227 GT's in NA. Sorry to see it go man you've been a huge help to all of us here and will be for all future 5th gen GT owners.

That is the PN on the belt I have but it seems like it's just a tad too short. I haven't tried it again after last weekend but that was my 3rd attempt. The current belt is stretched of course but it's an inch longer if not more.... yeah i know "thats what she said".... I'm going to try it one more time and if it doesn't go then on to plan B.

Yes, also using FSM for reference Using same technique and definitely hitting the hard stopping point. I did a little research on the Gates PN's and found a PDF that says the 60650 and 60651 are different at least for Gates but the lengths do not match what the subaru part states. On the subaru site is says the 809221140 is "V Belt-21X4X1654" and fits all 2010-2014 legacy and outback models. But on the pdf linked below it shows...1st numbers are imperial(in) 2nd are metric (mm) K060650.............. 65 1/2 1665 13/16 20 40° K060651.............. 65 3/4 1669 13/16 21 40° https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/GATES%20Belt%20Size%20Listings.pdf Even it being 1/4in or 4mm different between the 650 and 651 neither match the length that subarus site says unless its ID vs OD. Plus I shouldn't be maxing out the tensioner with that little difference.... I will see if I can leave the belt in the sun one day this week and get some of the factory "bend" out of it and get it to go on. Worse comes to worse I get another belt and try to offload this one with the STI 3 port WP. Still curious as to why it was even part of the TB kit for our cars when it's clearly for the EJ257..... Of course I sometimes forget how Frankenstein our cars really are so it's not a big surprise.

So it's been a while since I've posted but I'm still in the GT... for now... She's approaching 195k on stock everything and still holding her 12psi boost like a champ, although she rarely sees that because I only use it to commute during the week and drive the Titan on the weekends. Anyhow last weekend I was trying to put on the serpentine belt that came with my timing belt kit.... it's been in the box with the extra STI WP I have which came in the Continental TB kit vs the LGT WP... When I did the TB the serpentine belt I had was ok so I reused it and saved the one from the kit for later. Well now comes time to replace the serpentine and for the life of me I could not get it to fit. I have double checked the PN and according to Rockauto it's the right one (PN: 5060650) and it crosses over to 809221140 on all the manufacturers that list the 60650 which is what parts.subaru.com shows. I do see that the Gates & AC Delco PNs on RA have 651 at the end but they also cross to the 1140 subaru PN. So has anyone else ran into this or am I just being a wuss on the tensioner? I feel like I'm maxed out on the tensioner so I honestly feel like the belt is just too short. Obviously it's shorter than the one thats on the car because it's old and wore out but I can't seem to find anything that says the 5060650 is wrong.

Man I was hoping you had the side skirt puddle lights. I've got the door sills and up until the puddle lights went and caused me an electrical headache the sills were my favorite factory option on my car. The original owner had everything except the illumination kit installed which I'm glad because I'm not much of a fan. Anyhow GLWS killer price on the package!

The "waterproofing" is the problem. The housing lets moisture in and corrodes the ground curcuit of the PCB. The only way to fix it is to replace the lights housing and all. The harnesses do need the added fuse to keep from popping the engine bay fuse which controls not only all the accessory lighting ( dash hud/dome light/dash dimmer/door puddle lights/light3d door sills/side skit puddle lights) but is also related to the keyfob operation as well. Without fixing them your dome light, and in my case lighted door sills will stay on because the ground isn't completed. I had the body shop that did my recent accident repairs look into all of it and they ended up going back to the dealer to get new lights for me. If you have a scum dealership like my local dealer is they will try to charge you for the lights and labor because it only states to replace the harness in the recall. But the bodyb shop went to the next closest dealer that was like 20 minutes away and that dealership gladly issued them the parts under the recall because the body shop I use is a certified Subaru body repair shop since the local Subaru dealer doesn't do body work.

Yes definitely get the upgraded fork kit. They now how a forged version and the billet version. Link to verus site is in this thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5834534 Just FYI my post about the failure is in one of the old WDYD threads. But it has since been archived. Here is the post with pics of the clutch fork to save you sone time. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5676613 As for your clutch, the SB stg2 is the way to go. I used to install SB clutches only in the diesel truck shop I worked in years ago and the owner still only stocks SB kits today 10 years later.

Yeah those lower studs were the easiest part for me . My problem bolts were the top starter bolt and the top passenger side bolt the others weren't too bad. I did the clutch, timing belt kit, and a few other maintenance items @ ~120k... I know it was overdue on the TB but I don't drive my car hard so I wasn't too worried. Ultimately it was the clutch failing that forced me to do the work. The stock clutch would of been fine and probably lasted 150k+ but the fork failed causing all other items attached to fail almost had to get a new flywheel luckilythe machine shop saved it but will not be resuable next round. The fork had completely punched through the pivot ball and the clutch pedal was like a 1965 pickup (hard as a rock). So if you gpt the money be sure to upgrade to the newer aftermarket fork kit, I was pissed because it was released like 2 weeks after I had everything back together. Theres a post somewhere on here with a pic of my fork I still have it laying around somewhere although it is nothing but scrap metal.

Trans bolts may have not been crossthreaded. I had a simmilar issue with mine. Theres something with those bolts in particular the top ones. A section of threads literally came out of the block and it took a breaker bar with pipe extension to even break them free. I had to use thread savers and new bolts putting it back together.... Wasn't happy about it at all but had no choice. Of course a 2nd hand trans could of lead to cross threads but just thought I'd share my. I concluded theres a heat issue on the top passenger side because thats where my most problematic bolt was.

If that is what he wants yes, of course with turbos becoming a normal thing in the passenger car world for power/economy I think it's safe to bet it will be a standard thing when he starts to drive unless we go full passenger drone by then.

So for those that may recall... I'm now a proud first time parent as of Jan 28th! Little boy named Solomon James. Came 1 week early but still was 7lb 6oz and 20in. He is in great health as is momma, and we are getting a lot more sleep than I expected us to get thanks to little man being as perfect as a newborn could be with no issues except he's eating more than momma can produce so we're having to sub in formula a little bit but he seems to do great with either one.

We call them "fill beds" here in the south! Nice work for just 2 of you and a $h*t load of trees around to get in the way.

PSA! This happened to me too and is happening to quite a few 6MT subarus so anyone with a newer or ,especially upgraded, clutch in your 5th gen legacy 6MT better upgrade when you can because the factory part will for sure fail eventuallyand ruin your new expensive clutch. Unfortunately the new beefy unit wasn't around when I did mine but it is definitely on the must-do list when the engine comes out again.

This is worth a look https://www.instagram.com/p/BneYWZMllvv/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1eddz3vqqjups