linksusmaximus

Thanks. I'll carry around a second key in case it doesn't start. That would be a good time to try the second key. I'll look around for loose/corroded grounds. Without researching more I only know of the one at the starter bolt. Assuming it's in the manual.

Hit 50k. Also unfortunately troubleshooting ignition problems currently..

This was also suggested and something i've yet to try.. Another major variable in my problem is that sometimes it starts. After i replaced the starter yesterday, it started. Then i turned the car off to test repeatability and it didn't start. So, i waited a few minutes.. then I put the key in and turned it quickly and it started. So i drove it home (it was stranded at work all weekend). It worked all day Sunday and i drove it to work today, no problems. This makes it incredibly difficult to pinpoint the fix.. EDIT: Hmm unless the battery in my key fob is dying..? Additional info: - Leading up to this I'd get a loud grinding/screech after the ignition turned over. Led me to believe starter issues.. - I sometimes lose the power to auto-open/auto-close my driver side window. Other times it works fine. - Backup camera flickers on/off sometimes while moving in reverse each time I give it gas.

Opening this up again because I'm having similar issues. So far i've replaced my battery (9/3/19) and my starter with a used but healthy starter (9/22/19). Here's the deal - if I put my key in the ignition, wait a second or two to let the ceremonies finish, then try starting it I will either A. hear a "click" or B. my engine cranks once or twice then cuts off. Now, if I put my key in the ignition quickly and turn the key quickly without letting any ceremonies finish, I get about 10 engine cranks and then cuts off. This is a repeatable phenomenon. Brand new battery, healthy starter, ~12.5 volts off, 14+ volts running, and I cleaned/tightened all connections at battery, starter solenoid, and battery ground. No one I know has any ideas.. can anybody take any guesses? EDIT: Forgot to add, push starting did not work after 4 tries.

I've had this exact thing happen to me a few times as well after a hard couple of pulls in 1st - 3rd gears. Freaked me out the first time. Same remedy though - at a stop I kind of "pump" it away by depressing the clutch pedal a few times. Doesn't happen every time. Haven't had any related issues. Edit: BTW I still have my clutch damper. Haven't gotten around to the mod, but thought the info would help from someone who hasn't fugged with it yet.

Thank you, but I still wouldn't be able to get it to AZ. At that point I don't think the benefit outweighs the cost..

I really appreciate that Sarang, but unfortunately i'm never over there. Currently on the east coast. My goal is probably quite a stretch - I want to go full catback and match the Nameless axlebacks I have now with a Nameless midpipe to avoid a frankenstein setup. I found someone willing to fab a midpipe modeled off the discontinued 5th gen Nameless midpipe (apparently they can get the fab prints from Nameless), but he also needs to mock it up.. I assume for quality control purposes? Unless he's BS'ing me.

And that's uncomfortably far.. thanks.

Anybody live in or near the Flagstaff, AZ area willing to help a local shop mock up a custom midpipe (Nameless refab) on their 5th gen? Would comp. PM me!

Oil change, installed Fumoto drain valve, removed front lip and epoxied a nasty crack, plasti-dipped said front lip, epoxied my rear view mirror back on to my windshield, installed a custom etched front plate delete, reattached some rubber skirt thing hanging underneath the car due to a missing clip, helped the old man install a new rear bumper on his 01 Dakota.. I guess this is what happens when the girl is out of town for the weekend. Pic of front plate delete attached.

this doesn't look too bad..

Just sayin.. 18x8.5 +38 with 245/45/R18 on H&Rs.

My Rotas are 18x8.5 et38 and I'm running 245 45 R18. Ever since I installed my H&Rs, I rub the inner plastic wheel well lining when driving fast (~60 mph) and hitting dips (not necessarily bumps). Now, if i turn left while hitting a dip, my tire rubs the fender lip and deforms it outward . This is something I'm in the process of taking care of - i.e. making an appt and rolling my fenders - but for what it's worth that is my experience. Next summer I will most likely be purchasing 235 40 R18.

I FINALLY posted my Exhaust video to YouTube. I never knew how easy it was.. Anyway, here is the info: 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i 6MT w/ Dual Nameless 5-in Axleback Exhaust (Sorry for the shaky camera.. wanted quick and dirty) Midpipe is from a 2012 Legacy GT. Exhaust hangers were welded on the passenger side and bumper cutout removed to be able to install the dual Nameless Performance Axlebacks. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeNtsfOy7Uw]2013 Subaru Legacy 2 5i 6MT w/ Dual Nameless 5-in Axleback Exhaust - YouTube[/ame]

^^^ Hah, yeah.. so multiply by at least 2. I lose.

Ahem.. 40k here.. ahem.

Just got mine in the mail today. Probably going to install this weekend or the next.

Hit a pot hole on the cross Bronx so hard on Sunday that my rear view mirror popped off the windshield.. unbelievable. Thing was a crater. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Fronts in. Lovely improvement. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Installed my Rear Koni/H&Rs setup this weekend, finally! I was lucky to have had experience replacing springs in my old Legacy, so this was a breeze. 1h 45m total, jacking one wheel up at a time with the spare tire jack. Zero issues. Really a satisfying mod. As for the feel of the setup, as you can see I replaced an old Bilstein/RCE setup and I've immediately noticed an improvement.. and that's without the Fronts installed yet. I'm 1/2 turn from full-firm and so far I think it's perfect. Tighter feel around turns and I think the quality of the combo, even so close to full-firm, has mitigated the teeth-chatter significantly. We'll see how she rides overall (hopefully this weekend) when the Fronts are in.

Finally got around to building the Koni/H&Rs after caving in and purchasing extra OEM parts to build these outside. Happy with how they came out, just ravaged some of the paint due to the spring compressors.

Photoshoot in the Poconos area last weekend. Beautiful time of year.. http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/linksus_maximus/Mobile%20Uploads/20161021_115813-01_zpsue5ueq76.jpeg http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/linksus_maximus/Mobile%20Uploads/20161021_113814-01_zpsnr0jl54t.jpeg http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/linksus_maximus/Mobile%20Uploads/20161021_114758-01_zpstfaice6o.jpeg http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/linksus_maximus/Mobile%20Uploads/20161021_114830-01_zpsgbljarqs.jpeg

I know this is the wrong thread, but to add to this - I can't know for sure if this part (see attachment) is the "revised" part you're talking about (it doesn't really specify if it comes without the couplers on each end, nor if it is [i would assume] longer?).. BUT, either way, it's listed at about $56. Then add the hose clamps at $8/ea and you're at $72 pre-ship. Perrin lists their coupler + clamps at $63 pre-ship. If I decide to buy, I think i'm just going to go with the Perrin piece. Hopefully the "ENG" to "ITR" fix handles any headache.. Anyway, I may be doing the clutch damper delete very soon with a buddy who has a 4th gen. He's doing his too. Which now makes this relevant!

Gonna guess Rota Grid..

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/linksus_maximus/Mobile%20Uploads/20160812_101605_zpsubr2lc95.jpg