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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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... but I'm still trying to time up shifting better to stay in boost as I'm used to the old unpredictable, horribly designed piece of monkey shat damper. So in between shifts I feel as I'm not applying enough gas when releasing clutch after gear change and car bogs slightly.

 

it takes a bit to get used to coming back on the gas sooner after a shift. but now shifting without going into vacuum is one of my favorite hobbies. i have to say its a lot easier in my friend's '13 WRX, maybe something to do with the shifter linkage or his clutch stiffness but 1-2 shifts in that car are incredible while in the GT i like 2-3 shifts much more.

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I am attempting to this mod, but I don't want to pull it apart until I am 100% what I am doing. I have never bled a clutch master/slave before and I am confused about the bleeding process. I looked in the FSM but I have no idea where the operating cylinder is.
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I am attempting to this mod, but I don't want to pull it apart until I am 100% what I am doing. I have never bled a clutch master/slave before and I am confused about the bleeding process. I looked in the FSM but I have no idea where the operating cylinder is.

 

Right above and to the right of the starter on the bellhousing of the transmission. It is not hard to find, it is the only part back there with a hard line and bleeder screw.

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It's conveniently located under the TMIC for us GT folks, so you're in the clear. As far as bleeding, it's just like brakes, there's just more stuff in between the bleeder screw and the ground if you dribble.
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It's conveniently located under the TMIC for us GT folks, so you're in the clear. As far as bleeding, it's just like brakes, there's just more stuff in between the bleeder screw and the ground if you dribble.

 

Would I typically do this from above or below? i.e. should I be putting my car up on ramps or leaving it on the ground?

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Would I typically do this from above or below? i.e. should I be putting my car up on ramps or leaving it on the ground?

Leave the car on the ground. You need an extra person to pump the pedal while you crack the bleeder. Keep the reservoir full.

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Leave the car on the ground. You need an extra person to pump the pedal while you crack the bleeder. Keep the reservoir full.

 

My wrist was pretty sore (an old injury that flares up) after wrenching/cleaning on Saturday, so I am going wait to do this another weekend.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Did the damper delete along with a skid plate today...

 

Now I can feel exactly what the clutch is doing through the pedal and the surprise engagement from a stop is definitely not missed.

 

It was an awfully awkward position to sustain removing the damper and replacing it with the union, but I'd say the uncomfortable 30 minutes was well worth it to avoid the embarassment in the future of messing up shifts due to the inconsitancy of the clutch.

 

Even if I'm alone nothing beats the feeling of perfect shifting. :D

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That damper is the second stupidest thing about these cars from the factory.

 

It's actually very common on Japanese cars. My 2000 Infiniti G20 had the damper too, I bypassed it when I installed a new stainless steel braided clutch line, no flex at all anymore in the clutch hydraulic system :lol:

 

and whats the stupidest thing?

 

Very curious myself too.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I used to hate the MPG gauge, but it's actually just a glorified Vacuum gauge (for us NA guys), so save's me the trouble of installing one :lol:

 

Plus lets be honest, the coolant gauge was a dumb on off gauge anyway (like it is on most Japanese cars). It's either cold, warm or boiling over, gauge location has no correlation to actual temps (I monitor this with my Scan Gauge all the time).

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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The dampers.

 

shocks and struts specifically.

 

agreed they are not exactly great performance wise..... BUT they are great for potholes. my vote is for the wet noodle they installed and called a RSB that thing was to thin even for sissy driving, even MY MOM commented on how much the car tips over around a turn when she was driving before my 22mm whiteline went in

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Actually, I was going to say the farting-gaskets on the intercooler coupler is the stupidest thing.

 

And I was going to put the clutch damper as WORSE than the OEM struts.. I mean they are bad but the clutch damper is even more annoying, in my opinion.

 

Even so.. there is a top 3-5 things that are arguably worse than one another I guess.

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