BigBopper

This is the low pressure intake side to turbo. In OEM configuration, 1st nipple on left side comes from L&R valve cover breather hose ports. Next nipple to the right comes from crankcase vent below PCV. These two nipples/lines introduce the oil mist/blow by you are trying to eliminate from the intake, by installing the AOS.

2010 LGT does not have the electronic check valve ("white sensor"). Don't know about 2011 & 2012 LGT.

Hey, don't forget me too! I removed both also. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5100783&postcount=337

Looks like it got bent during supplier handling or shipping, causing the coating to flake off. It also looks like it has a defect (blemish/depression). Did you sign for it at delivery? Is the box beat up like it was dropped or crunched? You may need to file a claim with the shipper. Contact supplier/manufacture and see what they can do for you. If they're willing to work with you for a replacement, see if you can have them double box the new one. Good Luck

A few pics of disassembly for reference.

Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project. BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5297783&postcount=5

Can you verify the boost pressure is actually what the engine (ECM) is seeing. If the boost pressure was actually lower than what is being used by the ECM, it seems you would experience lower performance, as you are now... ? Throwing out ideas.

Did you ever verify if your BPV was working properly?

227 was US sales production.

Reference photos: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5137498&postcount=8

That will make it "stiff"

The OEM header is double wall piping, which may make modifications unreasonable.

This is what I did with mine back in early 2012.

The first "damper" is more of an expansion chamber, that over time and somewhat aggressive clutch pedal activation (and likely, accelerated by cold fluid) will cause the baffle plate to fracture (Surley). Removing it will lessen the somewhat vague clutch/pedal feel, which we all agree, is a good thing. Removing the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly from the slave cylinder will eliminate the restricting orifices. This allows the clutch fluid to directly activate the throwout bearing during engagement/disengagement for a unrestricted action. By removing it, you will definitely notice the difference in colder (fluid) temps. These devices were installed to lessen clutch induced shock on the driveline. As installed they do what they were intended to do. However, at the cost of vague/mushy pedal feel and slower disengagement of the clutch disc which causes unnecessary wear.

Yes, that is the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly. If you look at pic #4 & #5 [Clutch Damper Delete (1)], you will see both front & back of the damper disk, (12 little holes around a small hole in the middle) the back side has a small black rubber circle that acts as a check valve which allows fluid to travel through the 12 holes in one direction but not in the other direction. It forces the fluid to travel the opposite direction through the center hole.

More ...

When I did mine, I just sucked all the fluid out first. I also removed the restricting orifice/damper from the slave cylinder. I'll attach some pics for all you curious monkey wrenches.

Need more information: How many hookers are in the trunk.

To those of you who are curious about the fluid damper valve located inside the Operating (Slave) Cylinder, I grabbed a few pictures. Mechanically, it appears to allow fluid into the lower piston/push rod cylinder faster as you depress the clutch pedal, and slower as the clutch pedal is released. Notice the black (washer like) piece that is attached to the perforated round metal disc, on it's back side. This seems to serve as a check valve for the outer ring of drilled holes on the metal disc.

Island, did you get to drive your car after the damper delete (before the spring and rubber valve was removed)? I'm curious what each mod does to the feel and function of the hydraulic clutch.

^ Are you thinking about removing the inline spring? Interested in what your driving impression would be of that ... since you already know what the damper delete did for the feel of the clutch. P.S. Got my connector today. I have another on order but haven't received it yet. It will be available to anybody having trouble getting one.

^ There isn't a spring on the "line" side. Only a banjo bolt type fitting. The above illustration only shows one spring in the operating cylinder assembly.

Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...

Ordered #37255AJ000 connector/union for clutch hard line (damper delete). Dealer said part is back-ordered ... may be July before available . Hope to see it before then, have to wait and see.