[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete

[stewdogg]

where would I find this union on a wrx?

thanks

 

I'm not sure if there is one in the WRX... after looking a bit, there doesn't seem to be. If you go through this thread there's discussion about other compatibilities.

 

These are the compatible cars to the part number 37255AJ000, in the USDM.

There's a tab down the page that reads "what this fits" click that to see compatible vehicles.

https://parts.wildesubaru.com/p/Subaru__/49247663/37255AJ000.html

 

I would follow the advice of GTEASER and either try to order one from your local dealer or get a generic flare fitting union online.

[FLlegacy]

I believe the union is in the NA manual legacy, so it may also be in the NA impreza manuals.

[JDMBR9]

I phoned Subaru uk dealer today the part is not used in a uk car. so I will probably just use an adapter. unless someone wants to send me one over

[GTEASER]

I believe the union is in the NA manual legacy, so it may also be in the NA impreza manuals.

Only 2010-2017 manual Legacy and Outback.

[motorbreath]

So I have had the union for this delete since last year, but have not had time to get on top of this and replacement of the transmission mount, which is warranted given the age of the car. I definitely have the vague and variable engagement point issue with my relatively new ACT clutch/flywheel. However, there is a bigger issue, when I am accelerating at WOT frequently there is a significant driveline shock shortly after reengaging the clutch. It is literally a shock, sounds a feels like a pop, so obviously I have held off on WOT hard shifts until I figure this out.

I am no expert driver by any means, but I have years of experience driving MTs, including this car before the new clutch, turbo, and tune. I do not think this is driver error and only seems to happen in 3rd gear upwards with hard shifts.

Could this be a clutch damper-related issue?

[cww516]

It very well could be- the damper extends how long it takes for the clutch to fully engage, so what you're feeling could very well be the clutch slipping a little before finally grabbing.

[motorbreath]

That makes sense, it just seems like it is slipping and suddenly grabs, which causes quite a starting shock. I'll be easy with it for the next few weeks, I do not drive it much in the winter anyway, and I'll report back once the damper is deleted and then again after the transmission mount is replaced.

I was hoping someone else had experienced something like this, its always nerve-wracking to be the first...

[dgoodhue]

My new 2012 2.5i 6MT, when I speed shifted with WOT flat foot shifts, it made a snapping noise.  I was told it was the rear differential.  My '12 GT has rear differential mounts (i think inserts) and it does not make this noise when I wot flat foot shift.  I have the Cobb AP, so my rev do drop between shifts so their is a little difference between flat footing shifting on my 2.5i and GT. 

[motorbreath]

I'll definitely take a look at my rear differential bushings, that would be great if that is the issue since the inserts and pretty cheap and ?easy? to install!

[cww516]

Speaking as someone with a ~214k mile Baja with thoroughly clapped-out rear diff bushings, that's more of a solid clunk right when you engage the clutch unless you slip it just a little- those bushings are probably about 1.5" or so across the inside of the steel outer ring, and it doesn't take long for the mounting studs to slam from one side to the other.  What I get in the Baja feels more like an expected bang than an unexpected bang, if that makes any sense.

 

I can't claim to have experienced this issue in my LGT (before or after damper delete or rear diff bushing inserts), but I don't recall ever getting anywhere near the same hard clunk as I get in the Baja.  I don't get it now, either, but my OTS stage 1 tune doesn't hold a candle to what you've got going on.  The fact that it's only happening in higher gears would probably lead me to look at the clutch first, since that's usually where you'll start to notice a worn-out clutch slipping- direct- and over-driven ratios push back a little harder than the under-driven lower gears.

 

 

Onlething to watch out for on the rear diff bushing inserts, when I did it, one of the nuts pulled the stud out with it.  Not a big deal, I just put a little loctite on it when I put it back in, but it's something to be aware of.  I was just looking at bushings for my Baja the other day, and based on the amount of rust under there, I don't think I have a prayer of getting the nuts off of that thing without it backing out the studs...

[motorbreath]

So I just did the delete today, used my vacuum bleeder to completely remove all of the existing hydraulic fluid then proceeded to curse my way through shoving myself under the steering wheel area. Its a tight fit, in my case, but I followed the procedure and WOW, I should have done this a long time ago.

I had stalled several times since I had my clutch and flywheel replaced with an ACT HD unit, along with lots of shuddering in first gear when in traffic. This is almost completely gone, there is still a tiny bit in first gear but this might be the nature of the high torque clutch.

This is definitely one of the first mods you should do, especially since your clutch fluid is probably older than your first born child...

[GTEASER]

"Why didn't I do it sooner" is almost everyone's reaction. LOL! Best driveability mod, hands down!