smash209

SET SELF-DIAGNOSIS MODE BY OPERATING A/C CONTROL PANEL. 1) Turn the ignition switch to OFF. 2) Start the engine while holding down the AUTO switch and FRESH/RECIRC switch. See attached chart I would love to be able to mess with the fan speeds (or bias) mostly to get lower speeds in auto while heating. Any way to put a potentiometer on the output to the blower to gain a variable reduction of the whole range of speeds? 5. Diagnostic Chart for Self-Diagnosis.pdf

I did the delete today. Wow! Even after everyone hyping this up, I am surprised at the difference this makes! The car really drives as it should. After 10 mins of driving I feel so much more comfortable with the engagement point and feedback. Now I know when I'm slipping the clutch and when I'm not. So much easier on hills and confidence when matching revs. A few notes: - After contorting to get my head under the dash, I decided to lay the drivers seat all the way back (and down), and lay upside-down to do this work. I can't say this was better but it worked. - I was going to use a generic union from autozone after reading that I need to get the subi part and then grind off an ear. Don't do this. Grinding the ear was easier than expected (used air cutoff tool), and because of the tight space and mounting location it was invaluable to have a new part that fit perfectly when trying to line up the fickle hydraulic lines. I also didn't need to undo the line at the master cyl, just the two at the damper. - It should go without saying that you need a flare nut wrench. - After assessing just how dot3 was going to drip into my eyes, or at least be super annoying and not easy to plug up, I opted to go the route of draining ALL the fluid. Sucked it out through the slave. This worked well IMO, however required extra bleeding to get all the air out. - Tips for bleeding (if you sucked in air). I used a combo of the vacuum pump (cheap plastic version mitivac) and the pedal. I also took the slave bleeder screw out and teflon taped the threads, so I know any bubbles are from the line. Bleed normally using a combo of vacuum and pedal push pull. Alternate. At some point contrary to most I've read, with bleeder open, you need to go fast with the pedal 3 or 4 times up and down. You will feel the restriction in the slave cylinder slowing the action if you do it right. I believe this is needed to fully get the air out of the system. Keep bleeding normally after this and all should be good. I used 2.5 of the small dot3 containers total. If you are still debating as I was... just do it. It can always be reversed, but I doubt anyone would who likes driving stick after experiencing the difference!

I think it makes sense that the damper would affect both directions (unless there is a ball valve in the top). I will remove it as soon as I can considering there is still a delay in the slave that is "protecting" me. Have to get the new part. My pedal is squishy and sort of feels like its attached to a ziptie even after bleeding well. It's probably the damper right? However, what is the likelihood that the rubber washer creating the one-way valve in the slave has bit the dust after 90k?

Thanks for the detailed response GTEASER and other folks! It's much clearer now what I should do ! Do you know if the flow restrictor in the slave is directional or restricts fluid movement in both directions?

I would like to play devil's advocate here. I have been driving stick for many years and to my knowledge all previous cars have not had a damper/delay valve. I am finding the low and vague engagement point to be a bit annoying. I would consider deleting this valve but I do like the idea that it offers the driveling some protection if myself or a friend does something stoopid! I don't expect to dump the clutch, but sometimes road rage kicks in. Others have mentioned the damper is smaller on the wrx with nearly the same engine/trans combo. Is there any value in swapping in a damper with less volume for less effect? I think it would be ideal to swap in something that is truly unnoticeable in normal driving conditions. Thoughts?