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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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I installed this on my 2011 2.5i

 

24222-CLU-CL

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line

 

Between the delete, above, and fresh fluid.. really made the pedal feel more direct.

 

Just arrived and will be put on the parts shelf for now. Lol!282854d5cb45231976d0ab01b59c23be.jpg

 

may have to pick one of these up as well... "have to" being a loosely used term

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I would NOT install that line, mine failed after only 12.5k miles! I've had a different brand SS clutch line in my Infiniti for about 50k miles, and almost 10 years with no leaks.
Do you have any suggestions for our Subarus? I've never seen any other brand made for our cars.
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Finished this install up yesterday and only took like 6 hours :eek:. In all fairness I took my time since I have never torn it apart like this and was checking everything out. I was really surprised how easy the intercooler came out.

 

The damper came out fairly easy and I did suck as much fluid out of the reservoir as I could with a syringe. Not much fluid came out of the lines, but I did have an old t-shirt to let the fluid drip on. As everyone had mentioned before, leave the line towards the front of the car on and remove at the master cylinder (?) under the dash. I made sure not to touch the clutch pedal as well.

 

When bleeding the system, I was kinda surprised that the pedal just stays on the floor, it doesn't pop back up like the brake pedal when bleeding (never worked on a clutch system before).

 

Finally got it bled out, but there was a creaking at the slave cylinder/shift fork.

 

 

I have noticed the noise before, but never got around to checking it out. Ended up figuring out both the slave cylinder contact with the fork, and the fork contact with the pivot ball were pretty dry (Gteaser's suggestion). I made a grease applicator (Q-tip taped to a coat hanger) and greased both with some hi-temp grease (again, Gteaser's suggestion).

 

After the test drive, the creaking was gone. And I noticed today that along with the clutch feeling so much better, it is lighter. Not so hard to push down. I attribute that to the dry pivot points.

 

A huge thanks to Gteaser for helping me out yesterday (a few PM's back and forth). We knocked out two birds with one stone, and I now know more about this car. Great online community :).

IMG_5353.thumb.JPG.52add3960d072b25e090e4ed6c574b3e.JPG

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Do you have any suggestions for our Subarus? I've never seen any other brand made for our cars.

 

Unfortunately not, but I simply installed the factory line back, and haven't had the chance to research a new line yet. I bet my Nissan SS line would bolt up, but the length would be off.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Finished this install up yesterday and only took like 6 hours :eek:. In all fairness I took my time since I have never torn it apart like this and was checking everything out. I was really surprised how easy the intercooler came out.

 

 

 

The damper came out fairly easy and I did suck as much fluid out of the reservoir as I could with a syringe. Not much fluid came out of the lines, but I did have an old t-shirt to let the fluid drip on. As everyone had mentioned before, leave the line towards the front of the car on and remove at the master cylinder (?) under the dash. I made sure not to touch the clutch pedal as well.

 

 

 

When bleeding the system, I was kinda surprised that the pedal just stays on the floor, it doesn't pop back up like the brake pedal when bleeding (never worked on a clutch system before).

 

 

 

Finally got it bled out, but there was a creaking at the slave cylinder/shift fork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have noticed the noise before, but never got around to checking it out. Ended up figuring out both the slave cylinder contact with the fork, and the fork contact with the pivot ball were pretty dry (Gteaser's suggestion). I made a grease applicator (Q-tip taped to a coat hanger) and greased both with some hi-temp grease (again, Gteaser's suggestion).

 

 

 

After the test drive, the creaking was gone. And I noticed today that along with the clutch feeling so much better, it is lighter. Not so hard to push down. I attribute that to the dry pivot points.

 

 

 

A huge thanks to Gteaser for helping me out yesterday (a few PM's back and forth). We knocked out two birds with one stone, and I now know more about this car. Great online community :).

Any pictures on where you greased?
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Any pictures on where you greased?
He greased the pivot point where the slave cylinder rod contacts the clutch fork, shown clearly in his video, and the clutch fork pivot ball down in the trans that is probably very difficult to get a picture of but I'm sure you could just see it well enough to get grease on it with a q-tip after taking the fork boot off the trans, also clearly shown in the video.
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Any pictures on where you greased?

 

Similar to the pic here on a 4th gen Legacy, the boot comes off the shift fork and the pivot ball is accessible down behind the shift fork.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/mschmidt/DSC05350.jpg

 

It looks like this if you could see down in the hole.

 

verus-billet-clutch-fork-subaru-wrx-legacy-gt-outback-xt-2_large.jpg?v=1534484476

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  • 3 weeks later...

Do you have any suggestions for our Subarus? I've never seen any other brand made for our cars.

 

Unfortunately not, but I simply installed the factory line back, and haven't had the chance to research a new line yet. I bet my Nissan SS line would bolt up, but the length would be off.

 

Why did you jinx me! My stock clutch line gave out, ~138k miles + Exedy Stage 1 setup didn't help. As a proof of concept and temporary fix, I stole the SS clutch line from my parts Nissan Sentra, it was a direct fit (though I did remove the annoying bracket while I was at it).

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=272708&d=1548380508

 

Stock vs the 00-06 Sentra line:

attachment.php?attachmentid=272709&d=1548380508

 

I've been running this line on my Infiniti G20 (glorified Sentra) since 2010 (~40k miles and with stiffer clutches), it's still kicking well.

attachment.php?attachmentid=272749&stc=1&d=1548427409

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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What brand is it? It looks waaay longer than the one for the 5th Gen.

 

G-Spec for 00-06 Sentra's

 

The Goodridge line that fitted on my 05 Legacy is GOO 24216-CLUCL, which is about the same length and the Sentra line.

 

Sorry don't know enough about 2010+ to know the lengths. I will say, you can make any line fit with enough elbow grease :lol:. I'm actually thinking of buying new hard lines and bending them to be simpler. I don't think my hard line can survive another removal before it breaks, it's the main reason I removed the bracket that holds it.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Why did you jinx me! My stock clutch line gave out, ~138k miles + Exedy Stage 1 setup didn't help. As a proof of concept and temporary fix, I stole the SS clutch line from my parts Nissan Sentra, it was a direct fit (though I did remove the annoying bracket while I was at it).

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=272708&d=1548380508

 

Stock vs the 00-06 Sentra line:

attachment.php?attachmentid=272709&d=1548380508

 

I've been running this line on my Infiniti G20 (glorified Sentra) since 2010 (~40k miles and with stiffer clutches), it's still kicking well.

attachment.php?attachmentid=272749&stc=1&d=1548427409

 

 

Where did exactly your stock clutch line fail? I noticed last week I have a slow leak on one end of the line (where it connects to the slave cylinder). I am thinking the washers are no longer providing a good seal. Planning to swap washers and see how it goes. Would you know by chance the washer size?

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I thought it was either copper o-rings (since I reused, but slightly overtorqued), or at the crimp. But when I got to the line, it was dry at both, but wet on the rubber it self. I had the wife depress the clutch, to see if it would spray, but it was too small of a hole to notice an active leak.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=272704&d=1548380508

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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  • 2 months later...
I don't know - looking at the WRX clutch master cylinder vs. the Legacy clutch master cylinder, the WRX one has a feature that looks alarmingly similar to the clutch damper we have that is separate from the master...

 

Fair warning, looks like the newer style master is being used for all now. Need to confirm tomorrow but when I got a new master for my 05, thats what they gave me. And yes, that is likely the damper which ive seen no attempts to tinker with yet... anyone want to donate/sacrafice their deleted valve in the name of mods? :lol:

 

Do you have any suggestions for our Subarus? I've never seen any other brand made for our cars.

 

I have a cusco on my 4th gen. Techna fit makes custom lines, im looking into getting a one piece from master to slave.

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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Fair warning, looks like the newer style master is being used for all now. Need to confirm tomorrow but when I got a new master for my 05, thats what they gave me. And yes, that is likely the damper which ive seen no attempts to tinker with yet... anyone want to donate/sacrafice their deleted valve in the name of mods? [emoji38]

 

Uhhhh. 5th Gen uses a completely different MC than all other Subarus, with a separate damper, it's not built in to the MC. I think you're in the wrong section. Thanks tho.

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