Max Capacity Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Ive always wanted to build a SB but I dont have the space or proper measuring tools to ensure everything is to spec. However the video that BMB posted (ive watched like 7 times over the years) he trusts the spec of the parts ordered and the machine shop returns I feel it could be a DIY project. But then again a fresh 257 bottom end ready to go all you need to do is heads and accessories sounds really good. Years ago, 1975, I rebuilt my 340 plymouth dusters engine and drove that for well over 100,000 miles. When it came time for my wagon...I did a new ej257 and, paid the man to do the rest. 30,000 miles, still runs great. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Maybe Money will take less money and perhaps there's a warranty http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/co-fully-built-forged-shortblock-220629.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 for that money, you might look into a shortblock by one of the big builders. Thought someone got a new rallitec/rallispec SB for ~2500. up to the point of 12.5 sec 1/4, I was thinking cheap build. If drags are your thing, you're going to spend money. Just the way it is. Even worse is running a high tq engine on the stock 5MT. Budget for another 5MT. You can run HPDE on a budget block, as long as you keep it from overheating and running out of oil. Once you start swapping suspension parts & increasing tire grip, you're going to have oiling problems and clearance issues from heat. The longer you can stay on street pads, the better off you'll be engine longevity wise. I like your plan of selling the Carillo rods and going for something cheaper. I have some no-name H beam rods and they have held up fine. Regardless, don't envy you at this point. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 never heard of this shop before, however, that's a good price for a SB - http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/product_p/gm%2098-3110.htm found out about them from this thread - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/long-island-ny-2006-legacy-gt-spec-b-220493.html Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisheregirafFe Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 just curious as to the generally recognized torque limit of the stock 5MT's... :x i can put anything i want down here?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Ok, so random question time. 1. If I buy new case halves, a new crank, and new bearings - should I be able to assemble everything out of the box? Or will I still need to check everything/potentially machine something? 2. If I buy new case halves, how close are the A/B sizes? Can I order the corresponding drop-ins and be good to go? Order all "A" (larger?) size pistons and hone the block halves to match? *edit - for future reference A 99.505 — 99.515 mm (3.9175 — 3.9179 in) B 99.495 — 99.505 mm (3.9171 — 3.9175 in) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 1. You should be able to assemble everything out of the box, as long as the interns match the block. Make sure to get a big tube of engine assembly lube, fuji bond and front & rear seals. Do you plan of reusing the same bolts for the rods and case? 2. If you don't have the right measuring tools, I would take them to a machine shop and have them matched up to the cylinders. The pistons are easy to drop in. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 just curious as to the generally recognized torque limit of the stock 5MT's... :x 350ftlbs is the general rule. Ok, so random question time. 1. If I buy new case halves, a new crank, and new bearings - should I be able to assemble everything out of the box? Or will I still need to check everything/potentially machine something? 2. If I buy new case halves, how close are the A/B sizes? Can I order the corresponding drop-ins and be good to go? Order all "A" (larger?) size pistons and hone the block halves to match? *edit - for future reference A 99.505 — 99.515 mm (3.9175 — 3.9179 in) B 99.495 — 99.505 mm (3.9171 — 3.9175 in) Any good machine shop will measure each piston and hone or bore each cylinder to match the piston going in it. They will also plastigage each bearing to make sure you have the correct clearance. Can you do that ? If not, find a great machine shop. Tell them what you plan to do with the engine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 I have a great machine shop literally out the back door of our warehouse. If any work needs to be done I'm confident they can handle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Good to hear. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510Finn Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Sorry to read about this. Have you thought about getting a used JDM longblock? It seems more cost effective than to spend all the money to build one up and hope that it doesn't spin a bearing. You can get a them for around 3500 complete most of the come with the 6speeds too for around 7500, and if you don't want the transmission you can always sell it easily for 2-3k to recoup costs. http://jdmnagoyaautoparts.com/index.php?action=tag&id=18 I've been reading this thread about rod bearing failures, it's got some good information. 08 Spec B details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Sorry to read about this. Have you thought about getting a used JDM longblock? It seems more cost effective than to spend all the money to build one up and hope that it doesn't spin a bearing. You can get a them for around 3500 complete most of the come with the 6speeds too for around 7500, and if you don't want the transmission you can always sell it easily for 2-3k to recoup costs. http://jdmnagoyaautoparts.com/index.php?action=tag&id=18 I've been reading this thread about rod bearing failures, it's got some good information. Those are all EJ207 motors... 2.0L 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I've been reading this thread about rod bearing failures, it's got some good information. I have always been told, its all in the tune... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510Finn Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Those are all EJ207 motors... 2.0L Ya, but aren't these better engines anyway? I presume you could find some used USDM STi engines too. I guess it's not easy to find a good Subaru engine builder who will do it right the first time. I guess I've read and hear from people about their rebuilds ending up getting rebuilt multiple times. A very frustrating and costly experience. 08 Spec B details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 It depends on how you define "better, " from the little I know the 2.5 makes more torque and makes it earlier but the 2.0 is better at making top end power and reving 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 13, 2014 Moderators Share Posted February 13, 2014 Ya, but aren't these better engines anyway? I presume you could find some used USDM STi engines too. I guess it's not easy to find a good Subaru engine builder who will do it right the first time. I guess I've read and hear from people about their rebuilds ending up getting rebuilt multiple times. A very frustrating and costly experience. Some of the things you're saying--get a jdm motor / find a USDM STi motor...no offense, but do you know what you're talking about? STi shortblocks are the same as LGT shortblocks... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 It depends on how you define "better, " from the little I know the 2.5 makes more torque and makes it earlier but the 2.0 is better at making top end power and reving 2L engines are known for head gasket issues aren't they? From what I heard the 2.5L engines improved that issue significantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 If you drop the wrist pin retainer you can pick up the whole block and shake the crap out of it... It'll end up on the floor... Now why do I know that... Hmmmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Doh... I was apparently not on the last page! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510Finn Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Some of the things you're saying--get a jdm motor / find a USDM STi motor...no offense, but do you know what you're talking about? STi shortblocks are the same as LGT shortblocks... Just thinking of alternatives to rebuilding. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 08 Spec B details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510Finn Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I have always been told, its all in the tune... #pluskey 08 Spec B details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I took like 8 pictures and they all turned out potato. Here's the damage to the piston skirts. I can still see the original machining marks between the scratches, so I don't think there's much gone as far as diameter goes... <shrug> http://i.imgur.com/nHYZTdLl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Doesn't look too awful in the pic, although hard to really tell. Can you get away with just cleaning up the pistons and case? ("just" replace crank, rod(s), bearings) BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Here's a better one. http://i.imgur.com/UZKhdiy.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Machine shop next door says to clean em up with emery cloth and they'll be good to go. Need to bring the block halves in too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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