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Everything posted by PtPixel
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Test drove some Audi S4s over the weekend... Thinking of selling and upgrading Probably hard to gauge with NZ vs US market, but what would a good condition '08 Spec B with 180k miles on it go for in the US? Searching around NZ it looks like it might be somewhere around 10-14k NZD (6-9k USD) but hard to know. They're not that common here, definitely not with 280,000 km on them. Might have to wait for the right buyer.
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I think at some point that used to be a Honda Accord. How am I not surprised someone would go this far with a body kit and never touch the hubcaps...
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Poor 'vette http://i.imgur.com/XUaDg3Z.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f167vlg.jpg
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http://i.imgur.com/DHzF0CI.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uX8pK3n.jpg
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LED Headlight Strips
PtPixel replied to .NetSubie's topic in Walkthroughs :: Performance Modifications
Do you have a link to the type of LED tube you bought for this? -
^ agreed. It's the exact same for LHD/RHD. Punch through the grommet that passes from wheel arch to drivers-side cabin. Very easy.
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Post #1292 was my install, very straight forward. What do you need to know? Just find a place to ziptie the sender box and attach the power to the fuse.
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Haha I like that the speed limiter on the new map has been changed from 250km/h to 317mph (510km/h)
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Am now loaded up with the Stage 2 base map, can't wait to get in a few revisions. Loving the response from the base map already
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Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
Don't scare me like that... -
Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/73D5E388-9C18-4518-8ADC-5B9C6005FA3C-74362-0000152BB62E02C0.mp4 Link didn't work above -
Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
Nice, fan of the Titans? -
Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
Twincharged? -
Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
man not cool... that sucks -
Shooting for 10's on my daily driver
PtPixel replied to jmorris6689's topic in Performance/Dyno Numbers/Track Times
Nice! -
Haha spot the kiwi huh?
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So I installed the gauge yesterday. Very happy with the product! works perfect and has a very fast response time. Figured since I'm JDM (RHD model) and pretty new to car mods I'd do a small walk through on how the install to help anyone else. This mod was super easy to do and I didn't have any issues at all. The only tools I ended up needing was a nail, scissors and a dremel (not necessary). I also disconnected the battery when working around the wiring just to be sure. Attachment 1: I ordered the gauge, the fuse holder and the necessary piping (1/4" piping isn't shown in the pic, it was about 8' long, ended up cutting about 2' off) and tee connections from the website. The only tools I used were a nail to make a small hole in the grommet, as you'll see, and scissors to cut the piping to size. Attachment 2: A picture showing the BPV and the section of pipe where I will tee into. Attachments 3 & 4: To pass the piping from the engine bay to the cabin I decided to use the grommet within the drivers side wheel bay, basically following the same line as the bonnet release cable. 3 shows the plastic panelling removed from the bay and 4 shows the grommet within the wheel bay that I passed the piping through. Attachment 5: This just shows the same grommet from the cabin of the car, easy enough to find by following the bonnet release cable. Attachments 6 & 7: So 6 this shows the tee in place and the piping running along the back of the engine bay towards the drivers side wheel, I made use of the cable holders already in place along the wall and used a few zip ties to keep it in place. 7 shows the gap above the wheel well that I passed the piping through to reach the grommet. I used a small section of larger piping to protect the line as it passed through this hole. Attachment 8: Showing the route of the piping Attachment 9: This shows the piping as it passes through the grommet. I used a nail to make the initial incision and cut the end of the piping on an angle in order to get it through the tiny hole. I have sealant on hand to tidy up the hole. Attachments 10 & 11: After removing the vent (wont say much about that, all you need to do is remove the side panel and the vent pops out nice and easy and the link above has the manual to do all of that). I had to dremel the corner of the vent slightly to make a comfortable fit for the gauge [10] and i also dremeled off one of the clip holders to allow a nice gap for the ribbon for the gauge [11]. Attachments 12 & 13: 12 shows the path of the ribbon and 13 shows the gauge in place. Attachment 14: This shows where I placed the sending module and zip tied it into place (don't worry I tidied all that cabling up with zip ties). I placed the fuse holder in the upper IG2 slot as I couldn't use the lower IG2 as there wasn't enough space. So far no issues at all with using this fuse. Attachments 15 & 16: And voilĂ ! The gauge in place and working as it should. Peak boost I've seen is 15psi. Loving this gauge! Hope this helps
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Is the IG2 shown on the upper bank of fuses identical? Could be an easy solution there but uses a higher amperage for the fuse? http://static.wix.com/media/51a7f8_42f168914d090d3145f94e9865ee26ee.jpg_srz_229_334_75_22_0.50_1.20_0.00_jpg_srz