1-3-2-4 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 My start up procedure. Use starter to crank engine (no fuel) until oil pressure is reached (lamp off). Cycle starter so as not to overheat it. No fuel! You do not want to hydro lock. I disconnect the fuel pump fuse (or relay) when I pull the engine. Check for leaks. Connect fuel. Prime fuel pump several times. Check for leaks. Start up. First 30 seconds -1 minute check for leaks. Check data. While logging MULTIPLE parameters, run at 2700-3000rpm for 15 minutes. Let engine cool completely (may take overnight) Oil and filter change. First "test" drive is 5-7 miles. No more than 40% throttle, no more than 5-7 psi. Alternate -short burst and then engine break. Varying gear and load. After drive let engine cool completely. May take overnight. Check for leaks. Check all fluid levels. Now the "break in" driving begins. I tend to put 150-250 miles on the engine prior to handing it over. I perform the 100 miles oil change for the customer. I will post this section directly from my warranty statement: Recommended break in should be 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in, use good quality multi-grade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil, Valvoline or Castrol. We recommend an oil change with filter at 100, 500 and 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch to synthetic oils if you choose to. For the first 500 – 1000 miles try to avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving at 3500 RPM for 30 minutes. You should vary through the RPM range. Stock boost is fine but you should stay away from high boost/high load situations. I won't be moving it much just driving about 3000 ft and so on I still have a little work left to do on it but it's all dmv related lol. At least this is good info to start off on I have my oil gauge wired to the ign so it should have power when turned to crank so it should show pressure when it arrives. I will be videotaping the whole thing. It's been about 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Ha, I wish. Not in the budget unfortunately. Stock manifolds. COBB cast UP & COBB carted bellmouth DP. Stock cat-back. Thanks Mike, great advice. So one of Cobb's "iconel" UPs? If so, that would be rarer than hen's teeth. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 No, just the cast 304, but still a sweet piece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 Thread jack: I had an iconel up pipe from Cobb. I never should have sold it. Oddly enough, I found it in pristine condition on eBay for $50 back in 2008. Passed it on to another forum member for the same $50 price tag. Good luck with the build sir. If you have questions, you know where to find me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 She lives!!! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URCHolqEWa0]2018 Rebuild First Start - YouTube[/ame] Reporting two minor DTCs, P0463 (fuel sender) and P2227 (MAP sensor). I'll take it! Edit: Noting mileage for posterity, 97578. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 Great to "hear" 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derp Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 holy crap you're alive! I could suck start a snow blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 I don't think I have a full mod list written down anywhere, so I'm going to work on it in this post. My guess is there will be numerous edits as I remember more stuff. Engine: Forged CP Pistons, Swain Tech Coated (SC7426 9:1) D25 Heads Cometic MLS Head Gasket (C4574-056 .056) MAP Head Studs KillerB Oil Pan KillerB Windage Tray KillerB Oil Pickup STI 11mm Oil Pump King Bearings AEM Oil Pressure Sensor Infamous Filtered Turbo Oil Feed Line Gates Timing Set + OEM Timing Belt Tensioner OEM Oil Cooler Fuel: Deatschwerks DW65c Fuel Pump Deatschwerks 850cc/min Fuel Injectors Upgraded Fuel Pump Wiring Tankful of E85 I/H/E: Cobb Cast 304SS Up Pipe EGT Delete Thermal Zero Up Pipe Blanket BNR HTA68 Turbo Cobb Catted Down Pipe AVO TMIC GFB Blowoff Valve TGV Delete Grimmspeed ECBS aFe Dry Filter AEM MAP Sensor Mr. Gasket 738G Turbo Gasket Drivetrain: WRX SMFW Clutch Masters FX300 Clutch Kartboy Short Throw Shifter Kartboy Front and Rear Shifter Bushings Centric Premium Blank Rotors StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads 2004 STI BBS Wheels with Custom Powder Coat 225/45R17 Continental DW Tires 215/45R17 Brigestone Blizzak WS70 Tires (stock wheels) Misc: Cobb AP V3 AEM FailSafe WBO2/Boost Gauge AEM Oil Pressure Gauge Whiteline 20mm RSB AVO RSB Reinforcement Brackets Company23 Replacement "Blue Tee" Custom built frank_ster Receiver Hitch Yakima EZ Rider Roof Rack and Skybox Pro 16s Optima Yellowtop AGM Battery Stinger 1/0 Power Lead (for future system?) Homelink Mirror DRL Delete Outback Rear Power Outlet Rally Armor mud flaps E85 Fuel Cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hey! Nice to see you back! I can't wait to see more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Do you carry your box all year? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Pretty much, unless I need the rack for something else. No good place to store it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Pretty much, unless I need the rack for something else. No good place to store it Do you have a garage? Any way to locate a Yakima lift in the ceiling, and suspend your box out of the way? It looks cool on the car, but it's costing you gas mileage, and sun- and bug-soaking your box. I bought a Yakima Multi-lift and re-engineered the bits to make a 4'x8' platform lift suspended from the ceiling using 3/8" (300 lb capacity) nylon rope. Designed it to use a garage door drive system to turn the lift mechanism. Worked really well, and stored the 16cf Skybox, coolers, golf clubs, and my off-season wheels/tires. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 That's a good idea. My little garage already has an "attic", but I think there would still be room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Looks like there's plenty of room, and unless you're really tall, the bottom of the box should be well off the ground, with room to walk around. Pick it up when you don't need it, drop it and go when you do. Perfect use of space IMHO. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 When you change oil at 100, 500, etc miles is this total mileage accumulated from the initial start or is it 100 miles and then restart, 500 miles and restart? I'm sure I'm overthinking but I wanted to check. Thanks. My start up procedure. Use starter to crank engine (no fuel) until oil pressure is reached (lamp off). Cycle starter so as not to overheat it. No fuel! You do not want to hydro lock. I disconnect the fuel pump fuse (or relay) when I pull the engine. Check for leaks. Connect fuel. Prime fuel pump several times. Check for leaks. Start up. First 30 seconds -1 minute check for leaks. Check data. While logging MULTIPLE parameters, run at 2700-3000rpm for 15 minutes. Let engine cool completely (may take overnight) Oil and filter change. First "test" drive is 5-7 miles. No more than 40% throttle, no more than 5-7 psi. Alternate -short burst and then engine break. Varying gear and load. After drive let engine cool completely. May take overnight. Check for leaks. Check all fluid levels. Now the "break in" driving begins. I tend to put 150-250 miles on the engine prior to handing it over. I perform the 100 miles oil change for the customer. I will post this section directly from my warranty statement: Recommended break in should be 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in, use good quality multi-grade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil, Valvoline or Castrol. We recommend an oil change with filter at 100, 500 and 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch to synthetic oils if you choose to. For the first 500 – 1000 miles try to avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving at 3500 RPM for 30 minutes. You should vary through the RPM range. Stock boost is fine but you should stay away from high boost/high load situations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 From start up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 Tune day! Last pull on the dyno at Sandbeck Racing Development. All tuned up and making 311hp and 331ft-lbs of torque at the wheels. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSyX-ziuyTI]Legacy GT Dyno Pull - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 Just putting this here for future reference... AEM 30-4900 Wideband Failsafe Gauge TGV / Cobb Accessport log formula: =HLOOKUP("TGV Volt. Left (V)",$1:2,ROW())*2.375+7.3125 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Are you actually using the failsafe features? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Yes. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/aem-failsafe-wideband-o2-boost-gauge-211185.html?t=211185 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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