idiot4hire Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I bought a used single mass for 50 dollars and had it resurfaced for 60 with my fx350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 29, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 29, 2013 I bought a used single mass for 50 dollars and had it resurfaced for 60 with my fx350 I have a new one already on the shelf that I picked up for a steal a while back. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 15, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 15, 2013 Mine is installed. Only 50 miles into the breakin, but I'm thrilled with the pedal effort and minimal noise increase (chatter) so far. FWIW, I had to adjust my clutch pedal after install--before doing that I was unable to get the car into gear with the engine running. Seems like no one else has needed to do this, but just thought I'd throw it out there for others who might run into the same issue. If you complete the install and think you did everything correctly but the car won't go into gear, adjusting the pedal is worth a look. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Did you adjust the pedal more down toward the floor or the other way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Mine is installed. Only 50 miles into the breakin, but I'm thrilled with the pedal effort and minimal noise increase (chatter) so far. FWIW, I had to adjust my clutch pedal after install--before doing that I was unable to get the car into gear with the engine running. Seems like no one else has needed to do this, but just thought I'd throw it out there for others who might run into the same issue. If you complete the install and think you did everything correctly but the car won't go into gear, adjusting the pedal is worth a look. BMB - The adjustment requirement, iMO, may have had more to do with the leaking clutch line and now likely air in the system, than the clutch itself. When I had my HDSS installed, they also installed a SS line for a WRX which was ~1/4" too short (read: it was under strain to make the connections on both ends) and started to leak. Unbeknownst to me, as the system leaked down, it got to a point where the trans would not engage with the motor running. This required replacing the clutch line with the OEM one, and bleeding multiple times to fully get the air out of the CMC and CSC. I thought something had happened with the HDSS, which led to the leak discovery. Bench-bleed (or at least vacuum bleed) your CMC and then pressure bleed your CSC and look for any change in engagement point. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 16, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 16, 2013 Did you adjust the pedal more down toward the floor or the other way? Adjusted it away from the floor. BMB - The adjustment requirement, iMO, may have had more to do with the leaking clutch line and now likely air in the system, than the clutch itself. When I had my HDSS installed, they also installed a SS line for a WRX which was ~1/4" too short (read: it was under strain to make the connections on both ends) and started to leak. Unbeknownst to me, as the system leaked down, it got to a point where the trans would not engage with the motor running. This required replacing the clutch line with the OEM one, and bleeding multiple times to fully get the air out of the CMC and CSC. I thought something had happened with the HDSS, which led to the leak discovery. Bench-bleed (or at least vacuum bleed) your CMC and then pressure bleed your CSC and look for any change in engagement point. Yeah, we originally thought it might be a hydraulic issue so we bled botht the CMC and CSC--repeatedly. Just to be clear, I have a brand new stock line back on there because the WRX line was never going to work correctly in this case (the flare nut could not screw into the WRX line far enough to seal the flare fitting). Due to a leaking clutch line, we ended up pulling air out of the system repeatedly and then finally realized the flare nut needed to be tightened a bit more on the stock line. Did that and continued bleeding and all was good. The issue still persisted so we moved on to putting the car in gear without the engine running (reverse, in this case since the car was in the garage and we didn't want it moving forward). With the car in reverse I turned the motor over and started the car with the clutch pedal completely depressed. The result was that the car rolled backwards even with the clutch pushed to the floor. After adjusting the clutch pedal, the problem was completely solved. I've got almost 100 miles on the clutch with no issues. I think we maybe could've gotten away with about half of the adjustment amount that we did, but I'll let the clutch completely break in and then readjust the pedal a bit. Right now it's really not an issue in terms of drivability--engagement is still quite close to the beginning of pedal travel. Hope that clears things up. I really don't think my specific issue had anything to do with the CMC/CSC--I'm confident that we tried that route first and were quite thorough with the bleeding process. I'll likely keep an eye on that though moving forward just to be absolutely sure. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Possibility it's the CSC itself? Know your TOB arm is new and all, but there is a difference between the 05-06 DMFW and the 07-09 SMFW CSC. Front-to-back, there's different total "thickness" of the clutch "set", which puts the TOB engagement point to the pressure place further forward, or further aft, depending on the "set". May be worth checking-out. Or not, especially if you're content with it the way it is. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Possibility it's the CSC itself? Know your TOB arm is new and all, but there is a difference between the 05-06 DMFW and the 07-09 SMFW CSC. Front-to-back, there's different total "thickness" of the clutch "set", which puts the TOB engagement point to the pressure place further forward, or further aft, depending on the "set". May be worth checking-out. Or not, especially if you're content with it the way it is. Interesting. So a CSC from an 07 smfw has a shorter stroke than the OEM '06 LGT, or dothe opposite? Or the stroke is the same, but one CSC has a shorter rod length that the other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Without comparing them side-by-side, it's hard to know. I just find it interesting though that the two setups have different CSCs, which just happened to coincide with the change from DM to SM. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Without comparing them side-by-side, it's hard to know. I just find it interesting though that the two setups have different CSCs, which just happened to coincide with the change from DM to SM. That is- especially since my TOB seems to not want to disengage from the pressure plate since going away from the DMFW. I replaced the CSC and bleed multiple times, along with replacing the ACT TOB with a TSK3 kit. No luck. I spotted chasing the issue since the driveability isn't affected now. If be curious to do a side by side comparison of the CSC's.. maybe next time I go to a pick-and-pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 If you find out post-up your results. May go to the dealer and see if they have both in stock and see if there's anything specific that can be discerned from comparing the two side-by-side. I'm inclined to believe that the clutch package change is the reason for the change between the two slave cylinders. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 Interesting stuff on the CSC, curious to see if anyone finds any differences. On a somewhat unrelated note, I'm getting a bit of the squeek when pressing the clutch pedal--need to figure out where that's coming from exactly... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hey All! I'm on 275mi on new engine AND FX350... I have the TSK3 kit as well and can report shuddering under 1200rpm at first engagement from a stop or hill start. If I bring the rpms up a bit, the engagement is MUCH smoother... I also have GroupN mounts. Aside from that, I love the clutch feel so far... I'll keep you all posted. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hey All! I'm on 275mi on new engine AND FX350... I have the TSK3 kit as well and can report shuddering under 1200rpm at first engagement from a stop or hill start. If I bring the rpms up a bit, the engagement is MUCH smoother... I also have GroupN mounts. Aside from that, I love the clutch feel so far... I'll keep you all posted. Shaun Shaun, are you getting any squeeking near the clutch pedal engagement point? Just checked and the noise I'm getting seems to be coming up when the pressure plate is being engaged (and is coming from that area, from what I can tell). Sort of wondering if it's break in related and will go away over time "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 My 05 has squeaked since day-1... never have been able to fix it. It's actually inside the cross-mechanism under the dash (where the clutch control extends past the brake pedal) and it squeaks almost from the time I put pressure on the pedal, all the way through the stroke. Started-out at the bottom engagement point and has just gotten to the point where it's all the way through the stroke, both directions, but louder at the bottom. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Shaun - how many miles on your LGT? I've discovered something on my 98 BD GT that may also translate, but doing some research first. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 Dale, I think I know what you're talking about. Mine's not coming from the pedal area though, it's coming from the transmission. I'll upload a video sometime tomorrow. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 On the fork, did you grease the CSC engagement point, the fork pivot point (ball on the trans case), the two "knuckles" on the fork that the TOB pivots on, and the area on the opposite side of the fork from the knuckles (where the TOB clips hold the fork)? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I'll have some info to add next week. I'm coming from an exedy stage one with a WRX SMFW with 12,000 miles on it and going with the FX350. Will post then.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 On the fork, did you grease the CSC engagement point, the fork pivot point (ball on the trans case), the two "knuckles" on the fork that the TOB pivots on, and the area on the opposite side of the fork from the knuckles (where the TOB clips hold the fork)? Yessir. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Shaun - how many miles on your LGT? I've discovered something on my 98 BD GT that may also translate, but doing some research first. My LGT has 70K on it. Engine almost 300 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Shaun, are you getting any squeeking near the clutch pedal engagement point? Just checked and the noise I'm getting seems to be coming up when the pressure plate is being engaged (and is coming from that area, from what I can tell). Sort of wondering if it's break in related and will go away over time I'm not getting any squeaking whatsoever... under what conditions are you hearing the squeak? While the car is running? Not Running? Does it ever NOT squeak? Can you make the squeak sustain by holding the pedal in a certain position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 I'm not getting any squeaking whatsoever... under what conditions are you hearing the squeak? While the car is running? Not Running? Does it ever NOT squeak? Can you make the squeak sustain by holding the pedal in a certain position? I don't hear/feel it at all while the cars running--it's not that noticeable. I only noticed it yesterday when a friend of mine got into the car to feel the difference in the clutch pedal. Car was off and when he pushed the pedal I could hear it. The noise seems to happen at the clutch engagement point from what I can tell. Made a video last night: http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/th_E47EB2BE-09A6-48CA-B560-DE8E96C192EE-2826-000003E8A543CCFD_zps8620d7bf.jpg "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 That sounds to me like the pressure plate creaking or clutch fork not lubed up 100%... i'm thinking it's pressure plate noise. I'll bet it goes away eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 17, 2013 Moderators Share Posted June 17, 2013 I think it's the pressure plate. I replaced the clutch fork with a new one since the old one had a bit of wear and everything was lubed up with moly grease. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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