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What failed on your Second Generation Subaru today?


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Gah, grammar pwned. *sulks*

 

My Log-assy is burning (not leaking) stupid amounts of oil and therefor I my confidence in it has dropped through the floor.

 

Couple that with the fact that half of my house is collapsing and my creeper ex is stalking on me again AND I'm out of PBR and 10 High... *kicks the dog*

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Gah, grammar pwned. *sulks*

 

My Log-assy is burning (not leaking) stupid amounts of oil and therefor I my confidence in it has dropped through the floor.

 

Couple that with the fact that half of my house is collapsing and my creeper ex is stalking on me again AND I'm out of PBR and 10 High... *kicks the dog*

 

Burning huh? Sounds like its ur valve stem seals. Does ur car smoke only when u start the car or is it constant burn as u drive?

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It's def inside ur engine. Buy a new head gasket kit and it should be fine oh and piston rings too

 

Since when did a head gasket job solve burning oil?

 

And its not as simple as throwing new rings on the pistons. This involves at the very minimum honing the block, maybe even boring it. If it gets bored, then oversized pistons and rings are required. Regardless between the two, this is massive internal engine work and requires the block to be split in half...definatly not an easy task and not something for a DIY at home amateur to attempt. Hell, while you have the block split, thats a good time to measure and polish the crank (or machine it) and put all new bearings in it. Oil pickup tube should be replaced also while you're in there. And while you have the engine torn down that far, do forget the rear seperator plate, the oil pump, a full gasket kit, fugibond, timing belt, timing components, timing tensioner, spark plugs, wireset, etc. Also when you take teh heads off you need to have the deck on them checked to make sure its true (not warped) before you put it back together...if its not true then it needs to be machined.

 

Ever consider the possibility of valve issues? This is actually more common then rings. The heads should be pressure checked by a machine shop.

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Since when did a head gasket job solve burning oil?

 

And its not as simple as throwing new rings on the pistons. This involves at the very minimum honing the block, maybe even boring it. If it gets bored, then oversized pistons and rings are required. Regardless between the two, this is massive internal engine work and requires the block to be split in half...definatly not an easy task and not something for a DIY at home amateur to attempt. Hell, while you have the block split, thats a good time to measure and polish the crank (or machine it) and put all new bearings in it. Oil pickup tube should be replaced also while you're in there. And while you have the engine torn down that far, do forget the rear seperator plate, the oil pump, a full gasket kit, fugibond, timing belt, timing components, timing tensioner, spark plugs, wireset, etc. Also when you take teh heads off you need to have the deck on them checked to make sure its true (not warped) before you put it back together...if its not true then it needs to be machined.

 

Ever consider the possibility of valve issues? This is actually more common then rings. The heads should be pressure checked by a machine shop.

 

Sorry I didn't get into full detail but ur right. But the head gasket kit comes with everything u need including all the smaller stuff for the heads. If he's burning oil during his driving session ( beating on it) it'll smoke. I'm sure that's the only time he notices it. But what about when the car is off and cold. Amd The valve stem rings r cracked? Oil will leak thru them and onto the pistons which will make them burn as well. I've done it before and had to replace all the rings Kuz I just started the car and would drive off without warming the car up first so the rings would expand and the oil won't seep as much or at all

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Luckily the car still runs... Runs better and doesn't knock with oil in the oil pan. I'll just pour in the SAE 40 and drive it till its done... But it means this will be like the 7th lemon car I have bought. I am very disappointed and frustrated.

 

Thanks for the advice on the rebuild...

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Luckily the car still runs... Runs better and doesn't knock with oil in the oil pan. I'll just pour in the SAE 40 and drive it till its done... But it means this will be like the 7th lemon car I have bought. I am very disappointed and frustrated.

 

Thanks for the advice on the rebuild...

 

Ur running straight 40 in ur car?? Where do I live?

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Since when did a head gasket job solve burning oil?

 

And its not as simple as throwing new rings on the pistons. This involves at the very minimum honing the block, maybe even boring it. If it gets bored, then oversized pistons and rings are required. Regardless between the two, this is massive internal engine work and requires the block to be split in half...definatly not an easy task and not something for a DIY at home amateur to attempt. Hell, while you have the block split, thats a good time to measure and polish the crank (or machine it) and put all new bearings in it. Oil pickup tube should be replaced also while you're in there. And while you have the engine torn down that far, do forget the rear seperator plate, the oil pump, a full gasket kit, fugibond, timing belt, timing components, timing tensioner, spark plugs, wireset, etc. Also when you take teh heads off you need to have the deck on them checked to make sure its true (not warped) before you put it back together...if its not true then it needs to be machined.

 

Ever consider the possibility of valve issues? This is actually more common then rings. The heads should be pressure checked by a machine shop.

 

I don't think its valve issues. Sounds most like this one... The rattling noise at acceleration (near the end of the vid) doesn't happen like that.. It happens most when pushing in the clutch. I get this "RIP" sound just like the rattle at 2krpm on the vid.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrdMpLPUu3c]Subaru EJ25 piston slap or rod bearing knock - YouTube[/ame]

 

Car popped off another misfire code, but its running the same... has same amount of power and drives fine, just occasional stumbles and the noise.

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That rattle can be the bracket that holds the clutch line. Make sure the bolt is thru the hole and there's a nut to tighten it down. Kinda hard to tell u where it is with no pic. I'll try shooting u one in the morning. And if I'm not mistaken it sounds like the car in the vid needs something else other than lifters o.0
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So, I finally got the car on the lift today. Found out my other oil leak is from the other valve cover, I have almost no rear pads left, and the reason my whole car keeps shaking back and forth when I give it gas is because almost ALL the body mount bushings on the rear subframe are SHOT. I'd just replace them but most of the bolts back there will brake or not be able to be used again (there's rust). So it looks like I will be swapping my WHOLE rear subframe out for the one from my Outback. It's in MUCH better condition and is also aligned properly. Yay.

 

The weirdest thing about this car... ONLY the rear part of the chassis, rear axles, and parts of the rear hatch have rust on them. The rest of the car is freaking spotless. The whole thing will be next wednesday. I'm taking a break form this car for a week.

 

Oh yeah, found out my trans issue is internal. I won't be screwing with it. I'm just going to buy a used unit.

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I've got one. My Legacy tried to kill me silently.

 

I was installing some subs and had the motor off, but radio on off and on for a few hours. Went to start it, and it cranked slowly. Let it run for 20 mins and shut it off to try again. It got worse. I'm on alternator 3 in a year, so I figured to check it out.

 

Popped the hood to find my alternator wires burnt and melted. The post with the ring terminals had actually welded itself to the nut. The wires had also burnt so much that they came right off the ring terminals.

 

Seeing as how she tried to burn to the ground, from this day forward, the wagon shall be known as Trogdor, the Burninator.

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I've got one. My Legacy tried to kill me silently.

 

I was installing some subs and had the motor off, but radio on off and on for a few hours. Went to start it, and it cranked slowly. Let it run for 20 mins and shut it off to try again. It got worse. I'm on alternator 3 in a year, so I figured to check it out.

 

Popped the hood to find my alternator wires burnt and melted. The post with the ring terminals had actually welded itself to the nut. The wires had also burnt so much that they came right off the ring terminals.

 

Seeing as how she tried to burn to the ground, from this day forward, the wagon shall be known as Trogdor, the Burninator.

 

Maybe ur system is a tad bit overkill lol.

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So, I finally got the car on the lift today. Found out my other oil leak is from the other valve cover, I have almost no rear pads left, and the reason my whole car keeps shaking back and forth when I give it gas is because almost ALL the body mount bushings on the rear subframe are SHOT. I'd just replace them but most of the bolts back there will brake or not be able to be used again (there's rust). So it looks like I will be swapping my WHOLE rear subframe out for the one from my Outback. It's in MUCH better condition and is also aligned properly. Yay.

 

The weirdest thing about this car... ONLY the rear part of the chassis, rear axles, and parts of the rear hatch have rust on them. The rest of the car is freaking spotless. The whole thing will be next wednesday. I'm taking a break form this car for a week.

 

Oh yeah, found out my trans issue is internal. I won't be screwing with it. I'm just going to buy a used unit.

 

 

Ken do you have a trailer hitch on that car? Someone could have been backing a boat down a ramp. Those are the vehicles I typically see rust on the back only.

I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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