Tr00b

Just wanted to update this thread. The claim was rejected on the damage a couple years ago. I've had continual issues with the finish on the car not taking wax correctly and wax coats and sealers looking greasy and streaky especially on the hood roof and trunk when the car heats up. Pretty much said "eff it" and just washed in in the coin wash since then. My financial situation has significantly degraded since then, and I now work from home so I don't need my commuter. I'm trying to sell the car and the buyers are balking at the paint issues and offering me 2-3000 less for the car. I'm asking "fair" kbb already for the car. One guy found rust already on the rear quarters just inside the door where the bottom of the door gap is. Looks like it got sandblasted to the metal with gravel. I thought I submitted pictures already but will update with the damage and where the rust is starting, someone might be able to catch it and stop it on theirs.

I'm noticing that my new battery is having trouble after a few days sitting again. Still haven't been able to get into the dealership to get fixed.

I rotate the tires every oil change 6k mi and wax the wheels and check the caliper sliders. Needed an air cleaner at 45k mi. There is a TSB for the battery drain, taking my car in to get it done. They may be able to check your vin over the phone to see if its been done. My 2016 died at 50k and wipers. I'm tempted to have my dealer "check and advise" on the fluid in the CVT at 50k when they do the TSB on the battery drain.

Brisvegas, aww man, was hoping people would disagree and say it was coming from the door skin/cavity. I am a former pro car audio hobbyist, and I don't see a ton of reason to install any deadening in this car, its "adequate" for a stock car. Except for the rushing sound and the loud rattle deep in the dashboard somewhere.

Got a group 34 Interstate at the local station for well under 150. The battery clamp took a beating from the acid, need to take it out and paint it. They didn't stock group 25. My car also started at 20 below last year no trouble. I want to hate this car enough to sell it but this SiriusXM trial right now and the fuel economy has me loving it again.

I thought it was the weird window design that caused the rushing noise.

Wow, never heard that joke before. FUNNY. On 1200mg of Advil today this car hurts so bad to drive. In other news, my Sirius started working randomly this morning, kina kool.

I had this exact same issue, resolved itself randomly. WTF. Thanks for the solution mr Cobbs

I have been looking into this. Looks like the seat brackets will have to be modified. An entire new seat especially cloth is around $100-200 at this time from car-part.com (just the tracks/brackets might be cheaper for you with the limited leather) so a seat/tracks to hack on is quite reasonable and it should be a few hour project for a welding shop. The REAR brackets can just have the rivet ground out and moved to a different position on the track which will need to be welded/riveted again and ground so the seat will clear. If you look at the track you'll note holes already punched in the track. The FRONT brackets will need to be cut, extended, and reinforced to meet the track where it end. I'd also cut my rear brackets to lower the seat 2" approx as I need a bit more headroom. I would think your max investment would be around $500. The problems: The seats in all trim levels have air bags. The tracks would need to be removed or airbags appropriately disabled to safely weld. The seats are already uncomfortable, my passenger and I usually are already squirming and have numb legs after about the 1-2 hour mark. Driving the car everyday without the proper leg room has exacerbated a knee issue that had made my life living hell. Just going to move on to something else and let someone with the right body shape enjoy the car.

I didn't follow the procedure in post number 3 to the letter but an amp clamp on the wire, either positive or negative results in around .65 amps which is about 10 times the suggested limit of .070 amps. I'm going to try to run through that test as suggested but it's written extremely poorly, especially on the part with the buss bar which my car has. The battery also still tested as failed after 18 hours on a trickle charger. Did only slightly better, 280 amps at 9 volts. A friend was charging his phone in my car an left a USB deal plugged in to the 12v socket, that could also be a part of the draw, remembered it just now. A draw down test, will have to look that one up.

Ammcinnis sorry for the rehash on the question but thanks for the excellent answer. Apexi, I usually buy batteries from the local station and they are pretty good batteries (interstate) and spot on with the warranty. The batteries in my diesel truck are from 2013. Battery failed the test at 260 amps at 8 volts. Going to charge it overnight with a maintainer and try it one more time. Amp clamp is showing .65 amps draw.

I never had actual trouble or inconvenience till now really, will ask about the TSB. I have asked my closest dealership multiple times about any updates to the computers or recalls and they say they don't see anything I have to bring it in. Thanks for the amperage specs. Has anyone retrofit a larger battery?

My 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium (original battery) has had some battery issues the last year or so with an occasional slow crank. The terminals were fuzzy this summer and I cleaned them before I got stranded. Now, it seems to be going dead in a couple days if I don't drive it. I commute an hour so it gets good and topped off when I do. Initial tests show good charging system health, good idle (engine off) voltage. I've borrowed a battery load tester, amp clamp, multimeter. Does anyone know what the nominal amp draw of the car is in park with the ignition off and the doors shut or any common systems that create a draw?

I have a 2016 and have multiple things that bug me about this car: Uncomfortable for long drives for my and my gfs body types. Knee pain, numbness in the legs, fatigue. This is the nail in the coffin for the car for me, I'm parting ways with it because of this. I suggest an extended test drive. Not a lot of fun to drive and slow, do the swaybar upgrade. The paint damages very easily from tree sap and scratching. Snow traction is a total joke with the stock tires. The infotainment system worked perfectly fine when I bought it, was the best one I'd ever used. Now nothing works fully. Things I love about the car: The way it looks The infotainment when working Fuel mileage Ride is very, very good Transmission is seamless and the simulated shift points are spot on Remote unlock functionality Headlights on all the time. Holds it's value great. Very good value for the money. Flawlessly reliable for 50,000 miles, except for one thing- The other day the passenger window switch on the driver's side zonked out.

I agree, Subaru has great head room,the issue I have with the headroom is the smallest part of the problem, honestly. While modifying the seat to go back, it would be nice to also go down. Going down in the rear would help thigh angle/support anyway. Might solve all of the issues, actually. there is PLENTY of meat on the rear brackets to cut/drop. the front is where you need to get creative, extending the factory brackets to meet with the adjuster rail if moved back.

jMeg, the seat isn't reclined much if at all. Head room is okay. would still be nice to get in the middle of the windshield with my face to increase my field of vision, seat lower in the back. Its all the way down, all the way back, and the front of the seat is all the way up. Even with the front of the seat up, I have no thigh support at all, so a seat extender with thigh support would also need to come several inches UP to the bottom of my legs. Essentially if my legs are straight out, (such as when I tuck my foot under the brake pedal) I engage the thigh support on the seat. With my truck, the pedals are down, and the seat is higher. Its a bit more cramped and my legs are closer to 90 degrees but the pain is much less, hypothetically, because my thigh is engaged with the seat. Essentially I need to figure out how to safely weld/cut on the seat without setting off the airbags. Or sell the car.

https://www.kartboy.com/collections/2005-legacy/products/sti-droplinks These?

Anyone still having this issue? I haven't been able to get mine to work for more than a year. Anyone have a firmware update at the dealer help?

The seat is all the way down, all the way back. Interesting you say that. Coupled with the airbags in the seat, my gf complains quite a bit about numbness in her legs when riding in the car. Those airbags could be playing havoc with pressure points in the legs, hers and mine. I'll look into that, thanks.

No it doesn't have the sunroof. Bought it at a Dodge dealership, was originally looking for an AWD Charger without a sunroof, did not fit in one WITH a sunroof. The Legacy won out over the Charger. Right now, the issue is I'm too close to the pedals/foot pad to the left. It causes pain in my left knee unless I can stretch my leg out nearly straight, which can be done but my foot is next to/under the brake pedal. Also, Id like to be lower in the windshield, but not needed. Would be nice. My truck doesn't allow for my leg to be all that straight, but the pain is much less or zero driving that. Could also be the weird pressure points in the legacy seats. My girlfriend is 5'5" and has the seat almost all the way forward and up.

So far, the way I'd like to mod the seat might require welding to the tracks as I cannot seem to find hardware that will clear. I'm sure even unplugged, welding around an airbag isn't a good idea.

The Golf R would be what I would be driving if I could. FANTASTIC ride and handling, quick too but didn't really care about that. I had test drove close to 40 cars, mostly used, but started hitting new later. The VW guys told me to try a GTI. Tried that, a used Focus ST, Passat, Jetta diesel. Then a Golf R. I was blown away, only thing that rode that good and that sporty was a C5 Corvette. Only things that came close were the Legacy on the ride and the AWD Charger for speed and ride. I didn't care for the Charger transmission as I was especially preoccupied with paddle shifters... 8 gears to bang thru? No. and it was 34k new, but it was very close to the VW for ride and performance, just not as "collected" but much more room. I think the Golf R was 41,900. The used Legacy won with the ride, the transmission, and as with my loan I'd never really get upside down unless I wrecked it. But yeah, this car is school paste boring to drive, true enough, whoever said it.

Nope have a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium.

Sorry, this is on a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium. Thanks for the reminder to update my stuff!

Has anyone noticed a ride detriment with the bigger 22mm swaybars? I drive some really, really rough sealcoated roads that are twisty as heck. Car still rides great but not over that garbage. Getting outhandled by Traverses and Cherokees in it.