DOHCEJ22E1 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Wasn't my idea! Can't take the credit for that! I thought you suggested to me to try it? WHO WAS IT LOL Although I did test it and it definitely works, the prongs in the switch get worn, just rotate them and thoroughly clean the contacts then hey presto, working like new switch When the switch starts failing it will seem like the motor is dying btw, this is what I thought at first too but I tested this by swapped one of the rears switches in to test it and it's definitely switch related in my case It was definitely you. I remember clear as day! Go back to about page 4 or 5 of this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 I thought the same thing too until Stasis came up with the idea of checking & cleaning my window button contacts. Can you still operate the window some or is it just flat dead? I wonder if this would work for slow windows? Maybe I'll try it while on break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti_044 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Thanks guys, that's definitely a possibility. I just assumed a window motor would be cheap and pretty easy to do so why not? But at this point I'm broke so if this is a common occorance then I will definitely give that a shot. It fgoes down just fine, but it is a pain toget up, sometimes it doesn't/won't work period, others I just keep clicking it up over and over really fast and once in awhile it will go up( only if I forget I can't roll it down, or ill have to do that again haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joelwatts Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Knock sensor and a mysterious misfire at idle with a/c on your misfire is possibly from the compressor itself if you've eliminated all ignition and fuel related items. compressors are just little engines. they have heads with valves (reed type) and pistons. if one of the cylinders of the compressor is bad, it can put drag on the belt causing the crankshaft rotation to slow down. thats how misfires are monitored. the ckp looks for that slight speed up of the crank everytime a plug is fired. if it doesnt see that acceleration in crankshaft rotational speed, it assumes there has been a misfire. but check all the basics first. just some food for thought. I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Thanks guys, that's definitely a possibility. I just assumed a window motor would be cheap and pretty easy to do so why not? not cheap at all! unless you can find some in a junk yard. also, the imprezas have the motors reversed. i found that out the hard way, hehe. same exact motors, but the drivers side was the right one for my legacy passenger side. getting them in and out without getting pissed off and breaking stuff is a challenge, but doable. i found that some well-placed grease worked wonders while i was in there as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 ...It fgoes down just fine, but it is a pain toget up, sometimes it doesn't/won't work period, others I just keep clicking it up over and over really fast and once in awhile it will go up( only if I forget I can't roll it down, or ill have to do that again haha)... This was my exact same problem. I scraped the contacts clean, switched them around, & now my switch panel works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalstorm Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Question in regards to window thing. Is this with either switch? I'm trying to figure out as well if I have bad switch or motor. Rear passenger side on my '97 L wagon goes up fine until half way then it slows down and stops about 1 & 1/2 inches from fully closed. It's this way using the switch on the driver's door and the one on the passenger door. I figured tiref motor but after seeing this thread I have to ask. Does this sound normal for a just a faulty switch? Forgive my ignorance, this is the first car I've ever owned that has power windows so my knowledge is severely lacking. Sent from my not so smart phone using any means necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 It was definitely you. I remember clear as day! Go back to about page 4 or 5 of this thread. Lol i'll believe you then I wonder if this would work for slow windows? Maybe I'll try it while on break. It does, did it to my rear passenger windows and now they don't take 15 years to wind up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti_044 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 so is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? clean the contacts and what else, and how do I determine if It's the motor or switch if that doesnt fix it? The fact that it always seems to go down just fine (just not up) kinda stumps me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 clean the contacts, twist the prings around so the worn bit isn't being used any more. Pretty much that's it, see how it goes. I'm assuming you've take a rear switch and plugged it in the window that's not working to test first, takes 10 seconds to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimmrican Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Fuel filter its also killing my gas. But I bought a new one do it should take but a few minutes to fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Not exaclty today but found out that the only seal I didnt replace when I put this engine in now leaks ... the front main seal leaks and the oil finds itself to the exhaust and makes nice puffs of smoke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti_044 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Ok so I took the door apart, the connectors all looked clean. I also gave each of the contacts a little twist hoping to get a better "bite" and no luck. I tried this on both the switch and motor connectors. So I'm assuming the switch is going bad internally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Ok so I took the door apart, the connectors all looked clean. I also gave each of the contacts a little twist hoping to get a better "bite" and no luck. I tried this on both the switch and motor connectors. So I'm assuming the switch is going bad internally There is a little white piece of plastic inside the door switches that wears a flat spot after years of use. You just have to take the switch apart and flip that piece around and you will likely be good to go. Trust me, it's not complicated! (When I say "little" I mean like the size of a grain of rice.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwdNewb Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Abs light came on driver side front sensor but too much snow to dick with it yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I finally got a chance to jack up gtb and see why there was spring slap under load with rear left and not rear right When I had my coilovers rebuilt the rear left spring has been installed upside down -_- don't have the tools to fix it either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimmrican Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Just realized im missing a lug nut and upon taking a closer look seems like a broken stud as well. I have no clue how this happened seeing I haven't touched the tires since oct and all 5 lugs were on there. I'm suspecting shady neighbors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Locknuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimmrican Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Locknuts? Original with oe rims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti_044 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 There is a little white piece of plastic inside the door switches that wears a flat spot after years of use. You just have to take the switch apart and flip that piece around and you will likely be good to go. Trust me, it's not complicated! (When I say "little" I mean like the size of a grain of rice.) I'm not sure if I'm just blind or what, but I had no luck finding the piece you were referring to. I took the black plastic cover off of the back, revealing the circuit board and such. After I tried everything I could think of I just tore into the whole thing, taking the circuit board off and everything(you have to destroy the switch to do so), but I figured the switch is toast, but I still never saw that piece of plastic the size of a grain of rice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 he's right, it's supposed to be there, if yours is gone completely might be why the switch is toast burger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 This is what you are looking for (found this photo on the outback forums. It's from a newer car, but it's the same sort of thing if I recall correctly... since it's been a few years since I fixed mine.) http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/do-yourself-illustrated-guides/17383d1285081486-diy-repair-sticky-drivers-window-switch-side-switch1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Fuel pump went again. Replaced it about a year ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti_044 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 hmmm I honestly don't remember it looking like that. That sucks I tossed it I guess haha but all the signs in what made sense to me lead to the switch being bad. I guess the world will never know. I pray that the local junkyard has at least 1 laying around tho! haha. Now I know I suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Fuel pump went again. Replaced it about a year ago. What did you replace it with? Stock? I recently installed a Walbro 255 and am happy with it. I did hear of a bad batch of Walbros that were produced a couple of years ago though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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