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What failed on your Second Generation Subaru today?


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The day I need to take my car to the body shop the starter fails. I had to Mexican start her by pushing (the BD is light as heck!) and poping the clutch in 1st to start her. Head over to the mechanics and its done in 30min. Guess the starters are easy to replace in our cars. :)

Head over to the body shop in the morning. :)

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I thought about that, zeus. My only concern was whether it would fit well with an auto transmission.

 

I had one in my Auto! Im using the same in my 5MT

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/100_0112.jpg

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Was messing with the brakes today and discovered that my front right outer CV boot is torn, ugh! Can anyone recommend whether I should replace the whole axle or just the boot itself? I am very short on $$ right now, so if I could just replace the boot that would probably be better, but is there any signs/symptoms that would indicate that the whole axle needs to be done? And if the whole axle needs to be done, can I get one from Rock Auto for ~$60 or should I get an OEM for ~$100?
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Replace the whole axle. Boots are never the best answer. especially on the outer joints.

 

As the axle joint starts to fail, you'll notice some clicking coming from it as you turn. As it gets worse you'll start to notice an intermittent clicking while driving straight. Eventually you'll start to feel a steering wheel wobble above 55 MPH. At that point it should DEFINITELY be replaced. Once you push beyond that it could shatter internally at any point. The steering wheel will start to shudder violently and there will be constant light steering wheel shimmy. It won't click so much after that, until you get the random violent wheel shudder. When that happens you'll REALLY here the axle clicking. You can go a little while on a failing axle, but it's most certainly nor the wisest choice not recommended.

 

The Rock Auto unit will do just fine, but will last nowhere near as long as an OEM axle It's worth the extra $40 if you can spare it.

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Thanks Kenny! Really needed some advice there. No clicking yet (although I am not familiar with the sound, so maybe I am missing it?), and no wobble or shudder at speed. I did however replace the front rotors due to wobble under braking (but I assume that's I diagnosed that correctly), but will need to drive a bit more to make sure that's gone. Also, when you say the Rock Auto unit won't last as long, how long are we talking here? Sorry for all these questions but can I just install the one or should I check for play in the other axle to make sure it's OK?
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Thanks Kenny! Really needed some advice there. No clicking yet (although I am not familiar with the sound, so maybe I am missing it?), and no wobble or shudder at speed. I did however replace the front rotors due to wobble under braking (but I assume that's I diagnosed that correctly), but will need to drive a bit more to make sure that's gone. Also, when you say the Rock Auto unit won't last as long, how long are we talking here? Sorry for all these questions but can I just install the one or should I check for play in the other axle to make sure it's OK?

 

You'll know the clicking sound when you here it. As far as wobbling, anything that is rotational can cause a wobble. The Rock Auto unit will last for some time, just not as long as an OEM axle. I've heard of replacement/reman axles that only last a few years whereas the OEM axle will obviously last much much longer. Obviously it depends on driving conditions to how long either will last.

 

Checking all the axles for play can't hurt for the sake of making sure they're good. There should be no shaft play in any direction.

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Don't know if I call it a fail, but I put 86 octane gas in my sedan yesterday, it drove like a pig and made some weird noises- sounded to me like when you shake up the dice before you throw them in a game of craps. It was making that noise pressing the gas at around 1800rpm- 2500..

 

Anyone know anything about that? Its the first time since I done the swap that I have heard that.

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