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SI drive is a switch that switches DBW tables and RT to pedal angle tables in the ECU. The highest RT values can be changed so that WOT is X value, and X value equals a target boost, therefore switching SI modes will change target boost values too. You can override this in the map to keep the target the same throughout, I set I mode to be a valet mode at 7psi. S to be 12psi, and S# to be 15psi.
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So I found out its going to cost roughly $1100 when all said and done to fix the center diff.

 

Problem is when should I tackle this. Most of me says to get it done ASAP just because I dont like problems in general. But money is not available at the moment.

 

But i might go to my bank and see if i can redo my loan and add that too it. It would only add like another $30 a month.

But I could possibly save up the money within a few months. But the problem with that is I would not leave any room for another potential emergency. And I dont like living paycheck to paycheck.

 

I would save up and sometime next spring/summer I would have enough saved as well as enough to get it fixed. Or I could try and redo my loan and that way ill have emergency money all while establishing credit.

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Can you go to parents for a loan? better than having an actual "bank" after your ass.

 

Umm no. I got myself into this mess. I will get myself out. I have collateral on the car so i could just redo the loan plus the repair cost with interest rate of 3.75%.

 

But i just applied for a credit car that has 0% interest for 12 months.If i get approved and have a limit high enough I will go that route. Plus it will help establiah even more credit.

 

Why does everybody assume that I would have mommy and daddy pay for things? And that they pay for my mods? My mom is unemployed and i have 3 brothers and sisters. Pretty sure the last thing they want to do is pay for car stuff for me.

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i hope everyone learns their lesson by this thread, pre-purchase inspection.

 

Its even more bull**** because I paid a guy $100 to check over the car and he said it was perfect besides brakes and tires. Didnt even notice the perrin tmic....

 

Bring it to a dealership mechanic or to a trusted mechanic who knows subarus :spin:

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So I found out its going to cost roughly $1100 when all said and done to fix the center diff.

 

Problem is when should I tackle this. Most of me says to get it done ASAP just because I dont like problems in general. But money is not available at the moment.

 

But i might go to my bank and see if i can redo my loan and add that too it. It would only add like another $30 a month.

But I could possibly save up the money within a few months. But the problem with that is I would not leave any room for another potential emergency. And I dont like living paycheck to paycheck.

 

I would save up and sometime next spring/summer I would have enough saved as well as enough to get it fixed. Or I could try and redo my loan and that way ill have emergency money all while establishing credit.

 

Dam that sucks. :( That seems expensive for a center diff....but what do I know about center diffs? Not much, that's what. I know what you mean about waiting on it, I'd want to get it fixed asap too, it sucks to have a broken car at all, never mind for months. But...refinancing a repair kind of sucks in that you'll end up paying interest on that diff repair for years. Bummer all around, hoping you get back on the road soon however you end up going. (Aside of asking mom or dad for a loan for it :lol:) I'd personally put a for sale sign on my car after the first time I had to take out a loan from my parents to fix my own car.

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Dam that sucks. :( That seems expensive for a center diff....but what do I know about center diffs? Not much, that's what. I know what you mean about waiting on it, I'd want to get it fixed asap too, it sucks to have a broken car at all, never mind for months. But...refinancing a repair kind of sucks in that you'll end up paying interest on that diff repair for years. Bummer all around, hoping you get back on the road soon however you end up going. (Aside of asking mom or dad for a loan for it :lol:) I'd personally put a for sale sign on my car after the first time I had to take out a loan from my parents to fix my own car.

 

1100 is not bad when you figure in all the labor.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Umm no. I got myself into this mess. I will get myself out. I have collateral on the car so i could just redo the loan plus the repair cost with interest rate of 3.75%.

 

But i just applied for a credit car that has 0% interest for 12 months.If i get approved and have a limit high enough I will go that route. Plus it will help establiah even more credit.

 

Why does everybody assume that I would have mommy and daddy pay for things? And that they pay for my mods? My mom is unemployed and i have 3 brothers and sisters. Pretty sure the last thing they want to do is pay for car stuff for me.

 

 

Also, it's not smart to buy things on a credit card if you know you don't have the money to pay it off.

 

If you can get the money and pay it off before they charge interest then that's ok. Just don't get in to deep.

 

You never know what the future can bring...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Got denied that card. But applied for a student credit card that will be more willing to accept with little to non credit history.

 

Yeah i would only use it to put my repair bill on it. And id have 15 months interest free on it. But this is what i am going to school for, financial planning. And i thought it was more reasonable to get a credit card with 0 interest for 15 months than pay 3.75% interest. Also there is a protection plan that if i lose my job, get injured, etc then my payments will be suspended till I am back on my feet.

 

But that will be the last time i talk about finances publicly. Shouldnt have even started. But all will be well one way or another.

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sway bars are easier, but struts/springs will give you the biggest difference. I wanted to do struts/springs first, but if I had done that, all the hotchkis bars would have been gone! So I started with sways/endlinks, but wanted to do struts/springs first. Make sure you get new better endlinks when you do sway bars. Kartboys are amazing.
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