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Stiffness increases logarithmic-ally with sway bars too, I.e. the increase from a 15mm to a 19mm is not as big of an increase as a 21 to a 25mm. Easy way to figure out the change is to take the thickness, square it and compare it to the new thickness squared. That gives you your stiffness increase.
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Stiffness increases logarithmic-ally with sway bars too, I.e. the increase from a 15mm to a 19mm is not as big of an increase as a 21 to a 25mm. Easy way to figure out the change is to take the thickness, square it and compare it to the new thickness squared. That gives you your stiffness increase.

A valiant effort, but not quite accurate. Your point that it isn't linear is absolutely right, though.

lol
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I read somewhere it was logarithmic, sorry for the misinformation. I knew it wasn't linear!

polynomial is the correct term. And the one other important thing to note (in addition to the r^2 comment you made) is that the bar's ability to withstand torsional deflection is also dependent on the radius. In other words, the material near the center of the bar doesn't carry much torsional load, while the material at the outer edge of the bar carries a large amount of torsional load. That makes it just a bit more complex than just an 2nd order polynomial relation.

lol
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Also, my handle on the driver side door doesnt work. It flips up but on the side closest to the rear of the car seems loose and when i pull up on the handle it doesnt engage some lever . Idk. So now im entering through my passenger side...

Anybody else have this problem?

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Also, my handle on the driver side door doesnt work. It flips up but on the side closest to the rear of the car seems loose and when i pull up on the handle it doesnt engage some lever . Idk. So now im entering through my passenger side...

Anybody else have this problem?

This happened to me a couple of months ago. Pulled up and heard a pop - then the external handle failed to open the door. Did the passenger crawl for a week while I waited for a new handle and to have it painted. Think I was in it about $240 all said and done with installation. I had checked the linkage and it turned out that a plastic portion that holds the link broke.
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he must be doing the ultra-ghetto door seal lip

 

Nope. Im buying the RBS STi Style Front Lip w/STi badge

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-ma-spt-v2-catback-bilstein-hds-swifts-cobb-ss-191401.html?t=191401

 

And he includes bolts/screws but I also need some 3m double sided tape for the middle. But I got it.

 

Now i have to do some search on why my door handle on the outside isnt working :spin::spin:

 

One thing after another with this car .

 

Its a :wub: v :spin: relationship

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This happened to me a couple of months ago. Pulled up and heard a pop - then the external handle failed to open the door. Did the passenger crawl for a week while I waited for a new handle and to have it painted. Think I was in it about $240 all said and done with installation. I had checked the linkage and it turned out that a plastic portion that holds the link broke.

 

So... now I gotta pay $240 to fix this? Ughhh

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Which one is it?

http://www.subarupartsdepartment.com/parts/2006/SUBARU/LEGACY/GT%20SPEC.B/?siteid=215189&vehicleid=1433177&section=&group=&subgroup=&component=&searchText=handle&startRow=11&maxRow=10

 

Anybody willing to meet up and take a look at it?

Ive read that the inside of the door wouldnt open it either, but on mine I can still open it from the inside. So I am just going to open it with the window down from the inside, or on cold/rainy days open it from the rear passenger and just stick my hand to the front and open it up that way.

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Mine still operated fine from the inside. I had some rain during the time mine was down so the window wasn't an option everyday while at the office (but left window cracked at home in the garage).

 

You may get a better deal than what I paid - I didn't have time to deal search since I wanted it fixed ASAP with the weather and hassle so I ordered through the dealership and got the outside handle assembly, and had a local body shop paint it to match.

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I used SS bolts with big ass washers into body clips (u shaped with a threaded bung) in about 6 existing spots, 3 popits with new holes drilled and some 3m doublesided trim tape in the center section to tuck it up tight to the bumper. Have swapped them a couple times this year and it was never an issue to remove the 3m adhesive strip. This is with a CF lip but I anticipate it's probably about the same with the one you're doing.
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you need a door handle. same thing happened to my drivers side one. I got some friends @ local dealer and paid 35.00 for handle and had one of my friends that works at a body shop paint it for me. Then did the install myself, hours worth of work. need a philips head screwdriver, door panel tools, 10mm and extension (1/4") and your good to go
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my door handle broke on the inside where the actuator rod goes thru the backside of the handle damn cheap plastic crap had to replace handle and have it painted cost for the handle was a little over 20 bucks and the paint was around 70 they dont come painted anymore
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well some of you may know that my center dif is most likely blown so I am doing some searching for a new tranny no more than 60k miles. Im basically researching to find out what trannys fit and how much they will cost so I know how much to save up.

 

I plan to verify the problem soon. I have talked with my mechanic but he wants his transmission guy to check it out to confirm.

 

So what cars will fit my 06 spec b manual 5 speed?

 

Obviously the lgt tranny will fit. But how about any wrx's?

And no I am not going to do a sti 6 speed

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