ripemeat

sounds like a valve problem. valve seals expand as they warm. sounds like they're too tight.

You've been out of the game too long Ian, that's an 08+.

08-09 QSM LGT with patriots plate frame at the chartlon rest stop today.

I've ridden in many LGT's, both auto and manual and certainly notice the stumble that's mentioned in this thread. It seems to be limited to the manual tranny crowd though (and verified by the posters in this thread and an overwhelming majority). You can always flash an auto map onto a manual car and see if the problem resolves, just disable the neutral safe switch CEL, might be worthwhile...it could eliminate a mechanical fault as being the culprit.

you don't send the tranny to him, lol. you send the valve body and he sends it back -or- you pay upfront and he sends you one already modded, once you send your original to him he refunds you almost half.

you have a fuel pump fuse in the engine fusebox, pull it and let the car die, swap the terbs, crank for a 5 seconds, you're done.

more than likely they have the same issue....

oh ok.

but did you check a learning view? what k&n are you using and do you confirm it's not causing fuel trim issues?

Cobb OTS maps do knock at low loads, if you have some learned knock there, the stutter you feel is the car moving in/out of load cells that have a jump or dip in timing from one to the next. Solution is to get a better tune. Another possibility is fueling. Best bet is to check a learning view to see if either of those two things are a reasonable cause for your particular car. Another option is that the Cobb timing tables (the base and advance) are not smooth, this is the fault of cobb themselves and can very well cause a stutter on it's own, even if you aren't knocking. This is why open source, or a custom pro tune is beneficial for driveability.

it looks like you can run that map and be safe as long as the logs look like that. you could get a custom tune for a little bit more power but it looks like your car doesn't want to take much timing.

good news doobaru

I said IAM, not IAT(intake air temp)....Mostly for those people reading this that don't use cobb. IAM is DAM for open source people. Don't log independently, just add it to your log parameters(you know you can log multiple parameters at once to file). If you just want to know if you're knocking at all, or in the recent past, log FLKC and DAM. If you only log FLKC, you could very well have 0 all across the board but your DAM could be <1, which means you had significant knock in the past and the ecu is fractioning your total ignition down so that you don't have any more learned knock. That's still a bad situation even if your FLKC is all 0's.

well, if you think you have bad gas, you can empty that tank out, fill with good 93, reset ecu and try again, if the fine learn knock is still more than -2 then compression test.

fbkc only tells you if you're currently knocking. you still need to log DAM and fine learning knock to see if there's previous knock events bad enough for the ecu to learn to reduce timing. your fbkc might be zero the entire pull yet you could have oogles of learned knock or an iam/dam of less than 1.

doobaru don't bother with a tune, you have a mechanical problem. it's knocking the same amount as with the 93 map...

lol, echo'ing his own thread

I've seen him as well, he lives in stoneham. car is riddled with sti shit everywhere

^^^ that was Lordchilly. today saw an 08-09 silver 2.5i on 93 northbound in wilmington, had a ravspec trunk lip and black wheels

those are tgv-to-head gaskets.

not sure what your relation to Denver is, but they are 12.1psi atmosphere, whereas 14.7 is sea level. What I think you should do to be accurate is to do a leakdown test

subaru loves to set the valves on the tighter side from the factory, unfortunately, as time goes on and wear happens, the valves tighten up which- guess what, lands you out of spec. a tighter valve lash is quieter than loose, and thats why i think subaru does it.

it means your ecu is detecting you afr is too lean and it's adding 6% more fuel in order to reach 14.7 at idle. your maf scaling may be too low and the ecu is compensating. general you'd like to see negative (richer) rather than leaner. the rest of your numbers are great so i wouldn't worry too much about it.

to be honest, if you pull a couple degree in your timing table and it still knocks there and sometimes dropping the iam with it, disregard it, do you really think you're running >4* too much timing there? I highly doubt it, and 3 other tuners probably would've noticed. I'd forget it assuming the rest of your tune is kosher- fueling and WOT.

If you're staying at throttle and it's that low of a load and rpm, and it knocks the IAM all the way down I would suspect bad grounds or engine noise, or bad gas. You're talking closed loop areas there so fueling shouldn't be a problem(unless your maf scaling is off and your LTFT are well in the positives in the respected g/s range). If timing was the problem, the knock sensor shouldn't be picking up more events after it pulled a degree or two already.