Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[GTEASER]

Stock springs are approx 170-180 spring rate.

 

1) Eibach 1" drop with approx 200 spring rate.

2) RCE 0.75" drop with approx 240 spring rate.

3) H&R 1.3" drop with approx 250 spring rate but we don't for sure since they don't publish it. I can say for sure having driven in cars with RCE and H&R (own them) that they are at least as stiff, and likely quite a bit stiffer than RCE springs, especially beyond the first 1/2" of travel the progressiveness of the rate can really be felt.

Edited May 11, 2016 by GTEASER

[LiteWar]

Hmmmmmm I might do the H&R springs upgrade once I am done buying the wheels and the tires. Getting Enkei T6S 18x8.5 +45 with Continental Extremecontact DWS06 225/45ZR18.

[GTEASER]

Hmmmmmm I might do the H&R springs upgrade once I am done buying the wheels and the tires. Getting Enkei T6S 18x8.5 +45 with Continental Extremecontact DWS06 225/45ZR18.

 

Don't run the H&R's on the stock shocks. The result is scary dangerous when you severely under dampen them. Don't ask me how I know.

[LiteWar]

I meant I won't buying the Koni yellows and the H&R springs until after I buy the wheels and tires lol. But thank you for letting me know.

[GTEASER]

I would recommend doing the suspension upgrade first unless you will be in need of new tires soon, then it makes more sense to do those sooner. Upgraded suspension makes a huge difference in overall enjoyment of the driving experience every day in your car, you won't get that with wheels.

[cww516]

You can get more tire on those wheels, too, unless you're sticking with the 225 for appearance reasons. 245/45R18 that wheel spec fits just fine at stock height with no fender mods, and I believe it's still fine with a mild to moderate drop.

[FLlegacy]

I meant I won't buying the Koni yellows and the H&R springs until after I buy the wheels and tires lol. But thank you for letting me know.

I am going to have a used set of springs when Swannee225 gets the suspension swapped off his car if you would be interested. No set time line on it, so just throwing that out there if you want a good used set of springs. I believe H&R. And I'm in central Fl.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[GTEASER]

^^ Yes, Swannee's are H&R's.

[linksusmaximus]

You can get more tire on those wheels, too, unless you're sticking with the 225 for appearance reasons. 245/45R18 that wheel spec fits just fine at stock height with no fender mods, and I believe it's still fine with a mild to moderate drop.

 

Fact. I'm on 245/45R18 and 18x8.5 +38 with the H&R drop. Also stock shocks for almost 2 years now and can also attest that the shock upgrade should be done. Can't wait to actually FEEL the difference..

Edited May 19, 2016 by linksusmaximus

[Perscitus]

Yup agreed, 245/45R18s here with RCE Black + Bilestein shock combo. Zero issues, could have gone a bit lower on the offset too (18x8.5 +45).

[leighos]

Hi,

 

I am a 5th generation owner in New Zealand, i'd like to lower it just a bit - nothing too aggressive as our roads are not very good:mad:

 

Since mine is a diesel (BM-D), there is no direct listing for replacement after market springs (for use with OEM type struts), so I'm trying to find out if I can use springs from a more popular model.

 

Choices here in NZ are fairly limited too, I can get Prova springs, apparently designed to be used with OEM struts anyway, I'm just not sure which ones to choose.

 

For the FA20 engine:

31144 TH 1010: DIT BMG 2.0 sedan

Standard height ratios: f =-25 R =-17 (mm)

Rating: F=3.85 R=3.89(kg/mm)

 

or EJ25?

31140 TH 1010: BM9/BMM 2.5i/2.5GT sedan

Standard height ratios: f =-30 R =-20 (mm)

Rating: F=3.90 R=4.30(kg/mm)

 

there's a difference in rear spring rates between those two models and i'm not too sure why, have been trying to work out and compare engine weights

but cant find anything conclusive.

 

I've tried the same question on the UK Legacy forum (where you'd expect some diesel Legacy ownership) but no help there.

[FLlegacy]

Probably not what you want, but check here http://forum.liberty.asn.au/ they will know what is available to you given your model/engine.

[leighos]

Probably not what you want, but check here http://forum.liberty.asn.au/ they will know what is available to you given your model/engine.

 

that's cool, worth a try (to be honest I didn't give our Ozzy neighbors a thought!)

[fedaykin]

5th gen didn't get FA20 engine AFAIK.

[Humble Rumble]

5th gen didn't get FA20 engine AFAIK.

 

The JDM models had the FA20 I believe. He may also be mistaking the EE20 or EJ20 euro spec engines for an FA20, if NZ has the same engine choices as Europe.

Edited May 30, 2016 by Humble Rumble

[Perscitus]

Indeed, first use of the FA20DIT was on a 'JDM Legacy DIT'... also equipped with the Lineatronic HTCVT and years before the current FXT and WRX/Levorg GT-S were fitted with the same combo. MY2012 I believe.

 

We had some Japanese members on here with those cars.

[fedaykin]

Legacy... Leading the way (?). NZ do get a ton of Japanese exported vehicles.

[leighos]

We sure do, mine was NZ new model though.

So, about lowering it a bit, what's a guy to do?

[ChrisCrash]

I'm not so familiar with alignments but these numbers don't look like they did much, do any of these values seem alarming to anyone?

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160531/d932aa6ab94109404aa4a64d8ae9a64c.jpg

[dgoodhue]

It looks like they adjusted your f & r toe. The caster isn't adjustable on our cars. Only the front camber is adjustable unless you have aftermarket rear LCA's.

 

I personally like to go to a alignment shop with the specs I want them to shoot for. Being in spec can often be too broad for a good driving/handling car.

Edited May 31, 2016 by dgoodhue

[FLlegacy]

One alarming number is "2009" at the top hmmmm.

[ChrisCrash]

One alarming number is "2009" at the top hmmmm.

 

Yea I didnt notice that one until I left the place. If they spec'd it to a 2009 it could be all messed up.

 

It did run smoother though.

[ChrisCrash]

It looks like they adjusted your f & r toe. The caster isn't adjustable on cars. Only the front camber is adjustable unless you have aftermarket rear LCA's.

 

I personally like to go to a alignment shop with the specs I want them to shoot for. Being in spec can often be too broad for a good driving/handling car.

 

 

OK so the caster makes sense to me as well. The other specs, as FL pointed out, could be all wrong if they tried to match it to a 2009.

 

I wish I knew more about the specs to specify what I want. I do need to get LCA's tho but the wheels are pretty straight when I eyeball it.

[dgoodhue]

Off the top of my head, the specs of the adjustments that you can make look about right.

[GTEASER]

That's a solid alignment. 2009 LGT and 2010 LGT specs aren't that much different and are only a range from + to - that the factory deems acceptable. What matters is what it is set to, and other than a tad of toe-out in the front (but never really sure whether - or + is toe-in or toe-out) and a little less negative camber on the front left, it looks fine.