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I'm looking at these two bars:

http://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-legacy-rear-20mm-sway-p-4226.html

http://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-legacy-rear-19mm-sway-p-3892.html

 

I am not sure if any member has experienced with either one of them. I saw a post saying 20mm causes a 144% increase in stiffness compared to 99% in the 19mm. Any thoughts on which I should get?

 

I'm partial to my 22mm adjustable. i run it on the medium setting but the harder setting is great if you have nicer roads than VT.

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The 20mm is perfect if you're on a budget, since it's less than half of the price of the Whiteline. That's what I have on mine and it's great. I would eventually like to upgrade to the Whiteline one, but the 20mm is more that satisfactory until I can find the cash for that.
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The 20mm is perfect if you're on a budget, since it's less than half of the price of the Whiteline. That's what I have on mine and it's great. I would eventually like to upgrade to the Whiteline one, but the 20mm is more that satisfactory until I can find the cash for that.

 

Not to mention if you have an older 2010-12, with the smaller front sway, the larger RSB makes the rear end a bit tail happy. The larger FSB makes it more neutral so I second the Whiteline for adding a bit more oversteer.

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Not to mention if you have an older 2010-12, with the smaller front sway, the larger RSB makes the rear end a bit tail happy. The larger FSB makes it more neutral so I second the Whiteline for adding a bit more oversteer.

 

I would certainly not use the term "tail happy". Tail happy is a stock 911 experiencing off throttle snap oversteer. I've never had unexpected oversteer with the 23mm stock FSB and 22mm Whiteline RSB set to 23mm, even at full speed on track and with -1.5* camber up front and -2.5* in the rear. It's totally neutral and the little bit I have gotten is totally expected and easy to correct. Never a stain on my shorts.

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I would certainly not use the term "tail happy". Tail happy is a stock 911 experiencing off throttle snap oversteer. I've never had unexpected oversteer with the 23mm stock FSB and 22mm Whiteline RSB set to 23mm, even at full speed on track and with -1.5* camber up front and -2.5* in the rear. It's totally neutral and the little bit I have gotten is totally expected and easy to correct. Never a stain on my shorts.

 

Agreed.

 

I've never experienced oversteer at all except in snow (at which point it becomes very deliberate) and I am on 2014 OEM springs and have the WL rear bar. Not only does that mean my springs are softer, so more front lean over and therefore more rear opposite lift, but it means I have less negative camber in the rear as well.. So my car should be even more susceptible to oversteer than GTeaser's.

 

In short, MORE REAR BAR!

 

If the extra coin doesn't bother you, the WL bar with its adjustability and accompanying braces is well worth it.

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Not to mention if you have an older 2010-12, with the smaller front sway, the larger RSB makes the rear end a bit tail happy. The larger FSB makes it more neutral so I second the Whiteline for adding a bit more oversteer.

 

my oversteer is exactly where i like it, basically just present enough for it to happen before understeer. and when you have AWD why wouldn't you want to oversteer.

power slides FTW:wub:

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I would certainly not use the term "tail happy". Tail happy is a stock 911 experiencing off throttle snap oversteer. I've never had unexpected oversteer with the 23mm stock FSB and 22mm Whiteline RSB set to 23mm, even at full speed on track and with -1.5* camber up front and -2.5* in the rear. It's totally neutral and the little bit I have gotten is totally expected and easy to correct. Never a stain on my shorts.

 

Agreed.

 

I've never experienced oversteer at all except in snow (at which point it becomes very deliberate) and I am on 2014 OEM springs and have the WL rear bar. Not only does that mean my springs are softer, so more front lean over and therefore more rear opposite lift, but it means I have less negative camber in the rear as well.. So my car should be even more susceptible to oversteer than GTeaser's.

 

In short, MORE REAR BAR!

 

If the extra coin doesn't bother you, the WL bar with its adjustability and accompanying braces is well worth it.

 

For any newbie reading this, if you want to find the limits of your car, always find a safe place with runoff and incrementally increase speed/throttle/brake/whatever.

 

To keep this all legal, never do that on a public road.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Question for you Eibach spring folks...

 

I'm currently on RCE blacks. The specs state a .8" drop, but they settled to 1". I'm thinking about making the switch to Eibach, but I'm wondering if they'll settle to a greater than 1" drop, which is what their specs are.

 

Did anyone take before/after measurements when installing Eibach springs? I really don't want to drop it more than where it's at due to Minnesota winters.

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I would certainly not use the term "tail happy". Tail happy is a stock 911 experiencing off throttle snap oversteer. I've never had unexpected oversteer with the 23mm stock FSB and 22mm Whiteline RSB set to 23mm, even at full speed on track and with -1.5* camber up front and -2.5* in the rear. It's totally neutral and the little bit I have gotten is totally expected and easy to correct. Never a stain on my shorts.

 

Missworded that. It oversteers a bit more with the stock FSB and the larger RSB. I also have stock tires. You have grippier, wider tires so that keeps the car on the road better. But stock tires, larger RSB, rear end will slide a bit.

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Question for you Eibach spring folks...

 

I'm currently on RCE blacks. The specs state a .8" drop, but they settled to 1". I'm thinking about making the switch to Eibach, but I'm wondering if they'll settle to a greater than 1" drop, which is what their specs are.

 

Did anyone take before/after measurements when installing Eibach springs? I really don't want to drop it more than where it's at due to Minnesota winters.

So far for my rear the .8 is about right. I added a 1" spacer and now sit just above stock height. No scientific data just eyeballing it.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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Yes he does, but has only installed the rears so far and that was just a few weeks ago.

Yep! Hoping to get the fronts in friday. I did get my front built up so they are ready to go in. Darn school is cutting into my modding time, lol.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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For any newbie reading this, if you want to find the limits of your car, always find a safe place with runoff and incrementally increase speed/throttle/brake/whatever.

 

To keep this all legal, never do that on a public road.

There are also driving schools put on at local tracks especially rally schools.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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You can, and it'll work for a while, but it'll wear out the stock strut much faster. If you want an improved spring while keeping the stock strut, look into the OEM spring from the 13-14. They're stiffer and improved spring rate over the 10-12.
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can you install the eibach springs without changing the shock/strut

 

Using lowering springs on stock 2010-2012 struts is very likely to shorten the life span of the struts. Their is a pretty good chance your struts are already worn out. My tires showed some cupping from worn struts at 67k miles. I have seen other examples of 2010-2012 Legacy struts being worn out in the 55-80k mile range.

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can you install the eibach springs without changing the shock/strut

 

You can, but depending on the mileage on the OEM shocks, you don't want to run that way for too long and you want to start planning for either Koni's or 2013-2014 KYB replacements. The slightly stiffer Eibachs will overwhelm worn out stock shocks and create a very bouncy, uncontrolled ride.

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is there a specific shock that compliments the eibach pro kit? keep in mind I am only choosing eibach based on what I read on the website about improved performance, but still a good daily driver. so I am open to combinations that will perform, but not make too rough of a ride

thanks again

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You have basically 3 options for shocks for our cars other than coilovers.

 

1) 2010-2012 OEM replacement sponges

2) 2013-2014 OEM or KYB replacements which are pretty decent with only some springs less agressive springs

3) Koni Yellow Sport shocks (2008-2014 WRX fitment) and the front strut inserts have been discontinued.

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