Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[Scubaboo]

Swaybar links can cause that.

But everything you mentioned can, too...the leaking strut could be damaged, torn bushing can do that too.

Upper shock mount can make noise as well 

[coco26]

It's odd for a strut to start leaking that quick, so I would be a little suspicious of that. If you can't feel it in the steering wheel, I would lean towards something strut related, end links, then control arm bushings.

As Scubaboo said, I've failed a strut mount that made a similar sound.

Another hidden item is a little rubber sleeve that goes on the brake caliper slide pins. A "subaru specialist" once told me I didn't need them and they remove them on all the cars they work on. I spent months after that trying to track down the source of my clunking that sounds like what you describe (mine was only audible below 30mph or so). Turns out those sleeves are absolutely needed and are the only thing that keep the calipers from rattling on the pins. Might want to check if they're still there and not completely flat.

Edited March 3, 2023 by coco26

[copyboy311]

I'll be looking at those caliper pins, because the calipers were replaced as part of the brake job. Seems all-too suspicious. 

[creep_nu]

if one of the struts is leaking, i'd be very surprised if that wasn't your culprit...they make a *ton* of noise when they go bad.  and if you used quick-struts (monroe etc) that has the whole spring/mount/etc all in one...well, i've never had good luck with em, they blow and get noisy pretty quickly

[Scubaboo]

On 3/3/2023 at 10:46 AM, coco26 said:

It's odd for a strut to start leaking that quick, so I would be a little suspicious of that. If you can't feel it in the steering wheel, I would lean towards something strut related, end links, then control arm bushings.

As Scubaboo said, I've failed a strut mount that made a similar sound.

Another hidden item is a little rubber sleeve that goes on the brake caliper slide pins. A "subaru specialist" once told me I didn't need them and they remove them on all the cars they work on. I spent months after that trying to track down the source of my clunking that sounds like what you describe (mine was only audible below 30mph or so). Turns out those sleeves are absolutely needed and are the only thing that keep the calipers from rattling on the pins. Might want to check if they're still there and not completely flat.

Reminds me of my journey to fix the front rattles on my car lol!

First thing I did was those caliper guide pin sleeves, had to buy the entire caliper repair kit as the sleeves only come with the kit.  No more caliper rattle, but still had front end rattle.

Next was struts.  Mine came with OEM Bilstein inverted struts that were not blown, but had rattle from worn inner guides.  Common problem on 4th gen LGTs and WRX STI's that had similar inverted Bilsteins, and thankfully very documented or I probably would never have found it.  Disconnecting the struts at the top hat and applying force on the shafts showed one definitely had more play then the other.  New KW coilovers fixed that one.

But days after I noticed some rattle again.  That took a while to find.  One day on a hunch I had someone jounce the front with my hands on the mounts and noticed a bit of give.  I took a gamble replacing them and I won that bet as that finally eliminated rattles for a good long time!  Should have done top mounts with the coilovers, I do them everytime I change struts on any car now.

 

[Orkinman]

Can someone help me with the DIY install guide for the Koni struts and blacks? I have looked for an hour and cannot find it.

Thanks!

[GTEASER]

Here you go.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-yellow-sport-shocks-2010-legacy-fitment-214426.html?t=214426&highlight=koni+2012+gteaser

[Orkinman]

Thank you!

 

Current plan is to use KYB donors/Koni inserts and Koni Rears.

 

I assume the KONI parts need to be for the WRX 08+? What about the springs? I am not looking to drop the ride height a lot and mess with the rear camber. Should I go with a later year legacy spring that is stiffer? 

[DrD123]

5 hours ago, Orkinman said:

Thank you!

 

Current plan is to use KYB donors/Koni inserts and Koni Rears.

 

I assume the KONI parts need to be for the WRX 08+? What about the springs? I am not looking to drop the ride height a lot and mess with the rear camber. Should I go with a later year legacy spring that is stiffer? 

No - you want to use the ones for the Legacy - so 8610 1447Sport inserts for the front and 8010 1055 Sport struts for the rear.  For springs, the 13/14 springs are stiffer than the 10-12.  (I'd strongly recommend the 13/14 springs if you are staying OEM (that's exactly what I did)) - I'd recommend replacing the strut tops, as well.  (you're going to need to open up the bore on the rear strut tops to accommodate the Konis as well - the fronts work just fine)

For the KYB donors, I don't know if there is any difference between the ones for the 10-12 and the ones for the 13/14 - presumably the valving is different, but you are removing that and just using the body.  I used the ones for the 10-12.

[Walla_b]

On 11/12/2022 at 8:58 AM, coco26 said:

I have a GT with the Koni+H&R setup. You're right on the rear camber correction. Its not necessary, but definitely helps to have it to save tires. The stock camber bolts in the front still give plenty of adjustment.

You shouldn't need any new hardware. The nuts that hold the top hats to the body are deformed lock nuts, so they're technically one time use, but I've never had a problem with reusing them, especially if its only once. The only other thing I'd consider is front sway bar end links. You'll have to unbolt them from the strut, and if you live in a rusty area, they can be a big pain. I chose to cut mine off and replace them.

Here's a picture of my car. The extra weight of the 3.6 shouldn't cause a noticeable change in ride height, especially if you get the springs intended for it. The tires are 235/45/18, so they take up an extra 4mm of the fender gap, but also raise the car by 4mm compared to the stock tire size.

where did you buy the konis from?

[DrD123]

they are on Amazon, direct from Koni US, etc.

[Walla_b]

thanks,kinda skeptical buying some auto stuff from amazon of late

[Alexmed2002]

11 hours ago, Walla_b said:

thanks,kinda skeptical buying some auto stuff from amazon of late

There's been a lot of fake parts being sold as "OEM".

[Scubaboo]

1 hour ago, Alexmed2002 said:

There's been a lot of fake parts being sold as "OEM".

True!  But some very good deals also, recently scored an OE coolant reservoir for a BMW for significantly less than the usual euro parts houses and upon inspection when it arrived, it was definitely legit.

[DrD123]

On 11/14/2023 at 8:04 PM, Walla_b said:

thanks,kinda skeptical buying some auto stuff from amazon of late

you need to watch the seller, etc. to be sure.

Just buy direct from Koni-US if you are concerned.