Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[linksusmaximus]

I would check everything that was removed or replaced to make sure everything is tight.

 

I would also NEVER let anyone jack my car up on an LCA. Our cars have fantastic jack points easily available, there is no excuse to use a pinch weld or suspension component for jacking other than laziness. That being said, I don't think your friends poor choice of jacking point would cause your problem.

 

Sounds to me like you have a blown shock or two. I was having a hard time driving my car with the H&Rs on the stock shocks for the 3 months it took me to get the Koni install coordinated, it was awful, totally oversprung. I couldn't imagine what those shocks are like after a year with the H&Rs. Granted, your stock 2013 shocks are better than my stock shocks, but probably not by much.

 

Interesting.. thanks a lot for the input. Guess it couldn't hurt to get them looked at. Yeah, i kind of took the whole 'well, 2013s came with stiffer springs anyway' to justify keeping the stock shocks.

 

Zee - i've been on the H&Rs with stock shocks for about 1.5 years

[brandon.mol]

God I wish ...need to find a set first

How bout steering lockdown. Stop this nonsense and lock down that rubber blob already.

[FLlegacy]

Which subframe lock down would work for our cars? Is the diff bushings a worthwhile endeavor while I am at it.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[s2baru]

How bout steering lockdown. Stop this nonsense and lock down that rubber blob already.

 

Car hooks and responds pretty well. I'm getting thing gathered for the actual "shifting" experience to improve. Lockdown will prob happen in like 2weeks for my bday rofl

[Apexofthevortex]

Car hooks and responds pretty well. I'm getting thing gathered for the actual "shifting" experience to improve. Lockdown will prob happen in like 2weeks for my bday rofl

 

Whitelines crossmember bushings otherwise known as the positive shift kit, are easily one of the best things I've done to the car yet. Makes the shifter feel a lot more solid and consistent

[Scooby Fan]

Have a chance to get a 22mm Megan Racing rear sway bar for pretty cheap...they are adjustable and look identical to the Whiteline (Except they are blue)...anyone had any actually experience with Megan sway bars?? Install and fit should be same as Whiteline or STi...just looking for someone who has one or has tried one.

[s2baru]

Prettttyyy much all the same for install. Should take you less than 45mins. Takes ALOT of tension to break one so you're more than likely to break one of your endlinks first. Quality is fine, if there's any exposed metal you may want to touch it up with some paint just so it doesnt rust since your from the "wet coast"

[blklgt05]

Aren't the MR ones hollow type?

[s2baru]

Iirc they are similar to the old Cobb ones.considering it's a 22mm it'll be plenty rigid

[blklgt05]

Anyone recommend a good F/R sway bar set since we are on the subject? I really like my current setup, I think a slightly larger fsb would be a good final touch. I'm on the 19mm RSB atm. Edited December 30, 2015 by blklgt05

[mcg_]

Have a chance to get a 22mm Megan Racing rear sway bar for pretty cheap...they are adjustable and look identical to the Whiteline (Except they are blue)...anyone had any actually experience with Megan sway bars?? Install and fit should be same as Whiteline or STi...just looking for someone who has one or has tried one.

 

Yep, I installed the Megan rear sway bar (on the stiffest settings) and its great. Much better than the 19mm sti sway bar.

 

Also, yes, the Megan rear sway bar is hollow. I wouldn't let the fact that it is hollow scare you away - there are plus and minuses to both. FWIW, the sway bar combo msprank sells for 4th gens is hollow.

[fredrik94087]

Anyone recommend a good F/R sway bar set since we are on the subject? I really like my current setup, I think a slightly larger fsb would be a good final touch. I'm on the 19mm RSB atm.

 

What are your alignment specs? Do you have adjustable rear LCAs? How is the balance of the car with respect to understeer/oversteer? What suspension setup are you running and are your shocks still performing? What are your tire specs?

 

The doctor is in

[blklgt05]

What are your alignment specs? Do you have adjustable rear LCAs? How is the balance of the car with respect to understeer/oversteer? What suspension setup are you running and are your shocks still performing? What are your tire specs?

 

The doctor is in

 

DD Setup

 

Camber F:-1.5, R:-1.5 (will probably adjust rear to -1)

Toe: 0

Tires: 245/40/19 hankook v12 evo2s

Bilsteins/Swifts

SPC rear adjustable LCA

AVO front +castor LCA bushing

Whiteline roll center kit

Rallitek rear hd endlinks

OE 19mm rsb

 

Right now there's a very slight understeer, but mostly neutral under normal driving and very forgiving. I'm used to having much bigger F/R sways on my 4gen thou, any recommendations?

[Scooby Fan]

Aren't the MR ones hollow type?

If it is hollow at 22mm it would be pretty flimsy I would think...there is no mention of it being hollow on a local website??

 

Correction!! I checked the local website...no mention of it being hollow....checked Megan's website...Indeed hollow...end of my interest

 

 

Subaru Impreza 08-11/12+, WRX/STI 08-14/15+, Forester 09-13/14+, Legacy 10-14 Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

Model Number : MRS-SU-0391

The first thing you will notice when having the Megan Racing sway bars on your vehicle is reduction of body lean/roll. Megan Racing sway bars are used for tuning the handling balance and behavior of your vehicle. These bars' extra adjustment ability will also help reducing under or oversteer of your car. With these bars, they will make your drifting/road racing experience a little easier to predict.

 

It's constructed from high-grade seamless chrome-moly steel. Each bar are made from a CNC machine for precise accuracy and sealed with a Megan Racing blue powder coat to prevent rust and corrosion.

 

Specifications:

- Thickness: Rear 22mm

 

- Design Style: Heat treated Hollow Adjustable Type (2 holes) with Thermoplastic Vulcanizate Stabilizing Bushings

 

- Correction of understeer or oversteer and improve on handling

Edited December 30, 2015 by Scooby Fan

[Scooby Fan]

Did a little research on this subject... Whiteline did a study paper on solid vs hollow bars. You can read it in detail (As I did) but in a nutshell it looks like a hollow bars at 22mm is about the same torsional strength as a 20mm solid bar with a minuscule weight saving, almost none of which is "Unsprung" weight.

For me that does not justify spending the dollars. Thanks for the various replies.

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow%20vs%20Solid%20Swaybar.pdf

[ripstik]

If it is hollow at 22mm it would be pretty flimsy I would think...there is no mention of it being hollow on a local website??

 

Correction!! I checked the local website...no mention of it being hollow....checked Megan's website...Indeed hollow...end of my interest

 

You'd be surprised how stiff a hollow bar can be. No, it won't be as stiff as a 22mm solid bar but it will CERTAINLY be stiffer than the noodle it comes with from the factory. if i had to guess id assume this would have a similar stiffness to the 19mm bar maybe slightly stiffer, but its impossible to say without having a inner diameter... and the bar material... and the offset.

here some reading from whiteline if anyone wants to study the subject.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow%20vs%20Solid%20Swaybar.pdf

[Scooby Fan]

What can I say ristick ?? Great minds think alike

I already have a 20mm STi bar on the car so absolutely no benefit going to a 22mm hollow bar. OK...on to other ideas for the new year.

[ripstik]

what can i say ristick ?? Great minds think alike

i already have a 20mm sti bar on the car so absolutely no benefit going to a 22mm hollow bar. Ok...on to other ideas for the new year.

... But weight reduction because racecar

[Scooby Fan]

... But weight reduction because racecar

Absolutely!!! Save a couple of pounds on a 3700 # car with an automatic.... should totally transform the drive experience??

Hmmmm......... Maybe just dump one of the floor mats?

[GTEASER]

I have heard of hollow bars rusting in certain environments over time and failing. Personally I would stick with solid bars. You're better off saving the weight on wheels and sticking with solid bars that enable you to compare known stiffnesses when tuning a suspension versus guessing at a hollow bar's true stiffness..

[fredrik94087]

DD Setup

 

Camber F:-1.5, R:-1.5 (will probably adjust rear to -1)

Toe: 0

Tires: 245/40/19 hankook v12 evo2s

Bilsteins/Swifts

SPC rear adjustable LCA

AVO front +castor LCA bushing

Whiteline roll center kit

Rallitek rear hd endlinks

OE 19mm rsb

 

Right now there's a very slight understeer, but mostly neutral under normal driving and very forgiving. I'm used to having much bigger F/R sways on my 4gen thou, any recommendations?

 

Get your rear to -1 as you said. I would even go -0.8. That will take care of your understeer a bit.

 

Then, you may decide what to do next. If you up the front, you may need to up the rear as well...umm...that didn't sound right.

 

If you decide to fatten up the front, you may need to fatten up the rear. Oh dear, that didn't sound right either.

 

You get the idea.

 

I'm pretty sure once you set the rears to -1 or even -0.8, you will be neutral-ish.

[blklgt05]

Get your rear to -1 as you said. I would even go -0.8. That will take care of your understeer a bit.

 

Then, you may decide what to do next. If you up the front, you may need to up the rear as well...umm...that didn't sound right.

 

If you decide to fatten up the front, you may need to fatten up the rear. Oh dear, that didn't sound right either.

 

You get the idea.

 

I'm pretty sure once you set the rears to -1 or even -0.8, you will be neutral-ish.

 

Yeah rear camber will be around -1, my rear fenders are cut already, idk if it needs to be trimmed even more if I go to -1 or beyond. I think what I want to address is the front body roll but still stay relatively neutral. Maybe the 24mm Whiteline FSB with their 20mm rsb? Are there any other FSB options?

[fredrik94087]

Then you up your springs or anti sway bar. Between the 23mm you have and the 24mm, there isnt a lot to notice. If you can stomach and or find a 26mm you may notice it. That would go well with the 22mm rsb.

 

The roll you are feeling could be your tire. If you dont have enough negative camber and/or enough pressure, your tire will roll under.

 

Just a thought. Set fronts to -1.8 and rears to -0.8. Make sure you have at least 38 psi warm or 36 psi cold tire pressure.

 

I was running -2.0 fronts with 42 psi hot at the track. Rears were okay at 40 hot.

 

You can always try the anti sway bars, but if you are going to do an alignment anyway, set it so your car is neutral and make sure you run decent tire pressures.

 

If the alignment and tire pressures dont float your boat, coilovers would be my next step with 350# or more springs.

 

My wrx is running OE F/R anti sway bars. I believe my front springs are 500#. And, I am running max negative up front at -1.8. I always run 38 psi warm.

[tviko]

Might be a noob question and for the most part I read the sticky Faq created and did some searching on my own but I just want to make sure i have my facts right before I buy a sway bar.

From what I've read a 2009 WRX sway bar (rear and front) will fit my 2010 Legacy (2.5 premium), is that correct? Im looking to purchase this was to save a bit of $$.

 

Any help much appreciated!

[GTEASER]

Only the rear will fit from a WRX, the front will not.

 

The rear on your car is 16mm and the 2009 WRX rear is also 16mm, so not an upgrade. You are better off getting a 2015 STi rear sway bar. It is 20mm and will make an improvement. See my 2009 XTeaser (2009 Forester XT) link in my signature for the part numbers. The 20mm OEM RSB and bushing cost me just under $100 shipped from Annapolis Subaru.