Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 21, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 21, 2014 Getting rid of the last bit of cascade in my freezer today. I'm making a pale ale with one pound of flame out cascade as the only hop addition. I'm not even going to dry hop. Just 2-row and a quarter pound of home made marris otter crystal malt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 21, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 21, 2014 Somonabitch. Still have a pound left of it. Last time I buy 5lbs bags of hops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 25, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2014 Kegged our Pliny clone yesterday. Needs another day to carb up, but damn--this one is going to go quick. Came it at a calculated 9.45 ABV, so I guess it's a bit hot compared to the real thing. Oh well "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I have a problem with gas. Yes, yes, tee hee. I have a leak. I've gone through two full 5lb CO2 tanks. I have a tank, a 2-way manifold with check valves, pigtails going to a home brew keg & a regular San-key connector. I keep losing gas. When I started, I put everything after the regulator into a tub of water--tap, pigtails, manifold--and opened all the valves. No bubbles. I have to believe it's in the home brew keg somewhere, but I've also sprayed that down with soapy water & I see no bubbles. Argh. I'm considering emptying my homebrew keg into a sanitized carboy, changing gaskets, and refilling. The good news is, even uncarbonated after a week or so in the keg, my IPA smells/tastes terrific. I just can't get a good feel for it without gas. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 25, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 25, 2014 Why would you empty the keg to change the orings? You can do all of that even with it being full of beer. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Just finished the last beer in our "gallon" batch to realize we need to brew more Went out and bought a 5 gallon "kit" and will be using ingredients for a hefewiezen first. Couldn't swing the co2 and keg setup this time but that's coming as well. Never realized how fun and relaxing brewing beer could be. In my line of work anything that forces me to slow dowe a little and stop "working" is a good thing. Hope it comes out as good as the gallon did Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I have a problem with gas. Yes, yes, tee hee. I have a leak. I've gone through two full 5lb CO2 tanks. I have a tank, a 2-way manifold with check valves, pigtails going to a home brew keg & a regular San-key connector. I keep losing gas. When I started, I put everything after the regulator into a tub of water--tap, pigtails, manifold--and opened all the valves. No bubbles. I have to believe it's in the home brew keg somewhere, but I've also sprayed that down with soapy water & I see no bubbles. Argh. I'm considering emptying my homebrew keg into a sanitized carboy, changing gaskets, and refilling. The good news is, even uncarbonated after a week or so in the keg, my IPA smells/tastes terrific. I just can't get a good feel for it without gas. Before you do this, check that the fiber washer gasket is there between tank and regulator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 25, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 25, 2014 You might even need a thicker nylon one. The fiber one is too thin for my regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 25, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 25, 2014 Why would you empty the keg to change the orings? You can do all of that even with it being full of beer. Yup. No reason to go through all that. Just depressurize it and change the prints. If its leaking with everything attached, its probably the exterior oring. That could cause it to onlyleak when a qd is connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Why would you empty the keg to change the orings? You can do all of that even with it being full of beer. Hmm... I was nervous about changing them while full, but I can try it. I have an o-ring set on the way. I just didn't want to drop debris into the keg. Before you do this, check that the fiber washer gasket is there between tank and regulator.. Done. They gave me a new one with both fills. There's also an o-ring that fits into the regulator, and I've changed that. Yup. No reason to go through all that. Just depressurize it and change the prints. If its leaking with everything attached, its probably the exterior oring. That could cause it to onlyleak when a qd is connected. Well, I'll try it & find out. I rushed to blame the manifold, but it passed the submersion test. I don't have a sink big enough to dunk the keg... but it's the only thing left! Argh. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 26, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hmm... I was nervous about changing them while full, but I can try it. I have an o-ring set on the way. I just didn't want to drop debris into the keg. Done. They gave me a new one with both fills. There's also an o-ring that fits into the regulator, and I've changed that. Well, I'll try it & find out. I rushed to blame the manifold, but it passed the submersion test. I don't have a sink big enough to dunk the keg... but it's the only thing left! Argh. My experience is somewhat limited, but I think you're overthinking it. just clean your hands in some sanitizer and go to work, not that big of a deal. I have had to remove / reinstall popits and dip tubes a number of times already due to clogs at the beginning of kegs. Especially when dry hopping it seems to happen where they clog up the first couple of pours and I have to clean 'em out. No issues. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 http://slickdeals.net/f/6955628-midwest-homebrew-supply-10-off-sitewide-and-fs?src=tdw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Well, kegged and carbed my gunball head. I can't believe it has taken me years to realize that I need to start doing secondaries. The beer tastes like yeast and it's getting rather annoying. Does anyone have any other methods of getting the taste of yeast out? right now I just go from carboy or bucket to keg, add gelatin and wait for it to carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 27, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 27, 2014 Noooo! Keg it and chill it to about 32f. Fine with gelatin and wait 2 days. It absolutely has to be chilled first. It brings out chill haze and the gelatin binds to it. During that time you're also carbing it. I like to let it condition at 32f for a week, but you could raise it to serving temp after 2 days with gelatin. You'll get crystal clear beer this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Any filtration? I got a filter kit from a friend but also wanted to go to the secondary for a week as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 27, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 27, 2014 You have kegs, so no need for that IMO. Don't do a secondary unless you're prepared to transfer everything with co2. Transferring to and from secondary is a great way to oxidize your beer. The best part about using gelatin in a keg is that all the crap you don't want will sink to the bottom where it will get cleared out by pouring it. You'll lose a couple pints, but you'd likely lose more with multiple rackings. No need to start out with a bunch of steps unless you find them necessary. Proper use of gelatin will take care of the issues you're talking about. If you try it and don't like the results, then go for the filter. As for the yeast flavor, is it estery or is it yeasty? I just want to clarify to see if it's a fermentation off flavor or suspended yeast. What yeast did you use and what temp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I think it’s yeasty, I’m fermenting at 62-66 in my basement on a dark corner like that creepy thing from that movie with Elijah Wood. I used Wyeast 1056 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 27, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 27, 2014 I think it’s yeasty, I’m fermenting at 62-66 in my basement on a dark corner like that creepy thing from that movie with Elijah Wood. I used Wyeast 1056 Fermenting below 66*? Does that work out very well? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 may just take a little longer, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Fermenting below 66*? Does that work out very well? I don't know, when I first started I didn't have basement. My temps were really high, tasted horrid. The only issue I'm having is not dropping the yeast . the only think that I think I'm not doing is going down to 32degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 27, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted May 27, 2014 Depends on the yeast, but almost all yeast other than belgian strains will do best from 62-68. I do most of mine around 64. It'll make a huge difference in the quality of beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 6, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 6, 2014 ordered some more brew kits, this time with some yeast "smack packs". One of the packs showed up and is already inflated. Northern Brewer says it should still be fine as long as we use it within 3 months. Can anyone confirm that? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted June 6, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted June 6, 2014 Should be fine. But make a starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 OMG just discovered this thread...amazing! Racking my 1.140 imperial stout to secondary today so it can rest 6-12 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 having a glass of my gumball head clone. It's tasting much better as each day goes by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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