Polo08816 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I added this as a sticky with only the how to portion http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62371 After much discussion, it turns out that there are TWO filters inside of the banjo bolts that are at the entrance to the oil feed pipes - one on the driver's side that goes to the AVCS solenoid and one on the passenger's side that feeds the AVCS solenoid and the turbo oil feed. Towards the end of this post http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58023&page=19 people discussed accessing this bolt for cleaning the filter and/or replacing it. Someone posted a great idea and I decided to consolidate the procedure in one post. I removed the Bolt, removed the filter and put it all back together in about 30 minutes. Turns out that it is not hard to do at all. I didn't have time to try to tackle the driver's side bolt, but that one is of less concern. Tools - 10mm wrench or 1/4" drive socket 14mm deep socket 14mm regular socket Universal joint for the 14mm regular socket 17mm shorty wrench Magnetic pick up (you are going to need it) Make sure the engine is cold - you will be very intimate with portions of it. Steps: 1. Remove the engine cover 2. Remove one of the heat shield bolts as shown in the picture 3. Remove the nut from the stud as shown in the picture 4. Remove the bolt from the bracket as shown in the picture. This is the hardest part because you can't get a good angle at it. Use the u-joint. 5. Remove the bracket itself 6. Remove the Banjo bolt. Use the 17mm shorty and take your time. Be careful with the washers and not that a few drops of oil WILL leak out onto the up-pipe. 7. Remove the filter. Be careful or you will break it. 8. Install the banjo bolt and washers. Do not overtighten. 9. Replace everything else. Depending on your turbo and wastegate actuator the job might be easier or harder. My filter had absolutely nothing in it (22k miles). The car seems to drive much better, plus I am now richer AND better looking In fact several ladies approached me right after I completed the job - interesting..... The pictures are the best I could do. The are is very hard to see, let alone photograph. I bet I could do another one in around 20m minutes; NC crew I WILL be charging for this - no freebies. I hope this helps people. I am trying to attempt this and I really wish we had more photos so I took the liberty of adding 2 more photos to the 1 photo that basically comprises this entire "how to". This, I believe is the general area of where the banjo bolt is located. http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/Polo08816/100_0234.jpg This is where it gets confusing. Some of the components of rao's picture don't look identical to what I have here (2008 Legacy GT 5EAT). http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/Polo08816/100_0235.jpg I fail to see what exactly the banjo bolt is hiding under. I understand there's a bracket held by 3 bolts that rao wants you do remove. I just wasn't sure if I was doing everything correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devobuzz Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 ^ do the 08's even have a banjo filter??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 ^ do the 08's even have a banjo filter??? My understanding is that they do since I believe the 2008 is covered under that TSB that involves banjo bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devobuzz Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Sorry I just read a thread that said it didn't have it but I think you are right. What do I know, I have an 05 with one! Lucky I posted a question and not a statement of fact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B 127 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 I too was wondering if there are any better picutres of how to remove the banjo bolt. Also, does anyone have pictures posted of how to do the one on the drivers side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B 127 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Also, is it a must to replace the copper washers when you remove the banjo bolt? If so it looks like I have an excuse to buy parts at the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 I too was wondering if there are any better picutres of how to remove the banjo bolt. Also, does anyone have pictures posted of how to do the one on the drivers side? I agree. One picture does not do this thread justice. I was hoping someone would be able to provide better pictures on how to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenNorthLGT Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2657799&postcount=464 From this thread, a couple pages back..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Your bottom photo is pointing to the wrong location for the banjo bolt... just FYI. It's further down and in toward the center of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgcooley Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 My ass that's a 30 minute job. I just changed mine and it took about 1.5 to 2 hours. First off, do yourself a favor and take off the heat shield. I spend a lot of time struggling to get the bolt back in until my neighbor (mechanic) said take that off dummy. Use the floss as quoted earlier to hold the copper washer in place against the block. 20 something ft-lbs is a lot of force if you are using a shorty wrench. You have to muscle on it (put a wrench on your torque wrench to calibrate you cannons). Mine had some small flecks blocking less than 3% to 5% of the area. I have 38000 miles and follow the 7500 mile oil change using Mobil 1 synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 My ass that's a 30 minute job. I just changed mine and it took about 1.5 to 2 hours. Depends on year and model, I guess. I had my '05 5EAT wagon's banjo bolt out in like 20-30, and putting it back in took maybe 10. If I'd had a new bolt I was putting back in, I could have been done in 45 easily. Now that I know what I'm doing, it would be even less.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 I haven't done this job yet but I've inspected it carefully....I think with the right tools it's a 30 minute job for a shade-tree mechanic's first time, and not getting into any stuck bolts or 30 minutes threading a washer back on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenNorthLGT Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I haven't done this job yet but I've inspected it carefully....I think with the right tools it's a 30 minute job for a shade-tree mechanic's first time, and not getting into any stuck bolts or 30 minutes threading a washer back on If you have the exact right tools (swivels, extensions, and stubby 17mm) its a half hour to an hour job. Even on your first time, as long as you've prepared for what to do. A lot of this also depends on the size of your hands and your dexterity. And yes, be careful not to drop the washer in back....do yourself a favor and thread it onto something the first time because you WILL drop it if you think you can just slide it behind the bolt as you put it back in. Then you will have to find it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATSFYD Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Taking Notes... **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooby54 Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Just to make sure I just wipe the filter off and put it back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 No, you need to clean the filter out. Wiping it flat across won't do it. Try spraying carb cleaner or intake cleaner aerosol through it to get a little pressure behind it. Or, of course, just toss the filter out and re-install the banjo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenNorthLGT Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 Or get a new bolt/filter. They arent that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I don't understand why you would put a new filter back in? Your car's oil filter should be doing the job of filtering particles... sure this might catch some, but if it happens to clog it grenades your turbo and possibly your engine depending on which direction parts fly... why not just get rid of it? No other turbo cars have a filter like this that I know of... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I believe the general thinking is that if a part was put there by the factory, there is probably a reason. No one seems to know that reason, but that doesn't stop some people from wanting that part there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I don't understand why you would put a new filter back in? Your car's oil filter should be doing the job of filtering particles... sure this might catch some, but if it happens to clog it grenades your turbo and possibly your engine depending on which direction parts fly... why not just get rid of it? No other turbo cars have a filter like this that I know of... Some aftermarket turbos come with a filter in the replacement feedline. I think the rational is to increase turbo life by removing the fine dirt. If the filter is serviced regularly enough, there really shouldn't be a problem with clogging. In the case of the stock filter, maybe Subaru was worried about some initial assembly crap taking out the turbo. They probably didn't count on sludge plugging up the mesh in the field though. It really isn't that much trouble to swap out the bolt once you've done it once. You just need a stubby wrench and some flexibility. Getting the washers in is a little tricky, but really not that bad if you just put some grease on the inner one so it stick in place while you are reaching for the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 The initial thought of extra filtering was good in theory, however long-term testing might not have found the potential issues, this turbo has made it almost 100,000 miles without one so far. It wasn't difficult at all to take out, I did the grease method like you did, but I have no desire to do it on a regular basis. I saw Forced Performance says to get rid of it if you buy one of their turbos, if they felt it was beneficial you would think they'd ask you to keep it as they don't want to warranty blown turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B 127 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Well I tried to do this today, and without have a 17mm shorty wrench, it is impossible, at least for my massive hands at least . My adivce would be to not attempt this without have that 17mm shorty. All of the other bolts are pretty easy to get at with the tools that Rao listed. For whatever reason, I also needed to shoot the nut on the stub with some Rust-Solve to loosen it up as it was tight as f**k!! It was also fairly tricky to get out the bracket once I had all of the nuts and bolts off, but it still comes out. I also looked at the drivers side bolt, and to my eye I cannot see how you would even to begin to take it out since as you back it out, you will come into contact with the back of the timing belt cover. If any one has any ideas or pictures of how they did it, I would love to see it. And hence I am off to the store to aquire one so I may finish the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenNorthLGT Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Yes they 17mm shorty is ESSENTIAL... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Well I tried to do this today, and without have a 17mm shorty wrench, it is impossible, at least for my massive hands at least . My adivce would be to not attempt this without have that 17mm shorty. All of the other bolts are pretty easy to get at with the tools that Rao listed. For whatever reason, I also needed to shoot the nut on the stub with some Rust-Solve to loosen it up as it was tight as f**k!! It was also fairly tricky to get out the bracket once I had all of the nuts and bolts off, but it still comes out. I also looked at the drivers side bolt, and to my eye I cannot see how you would even to begin to take it out since as you back it out, you will come into contact with the back of the timing belt cover. If any one has any ideas or pictures of how they did it, I would love to see it. And hence I am off to the store to aquire one so I may finish the job. Way back on post 158. just updated it to put back the pic. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326330&postcount=158 I have 134k now, in 10k more I'll be doing it again. So I can compare the bolt filter between the frist 30k Mobil1\Fram & the last 43k, using Amsoil oil\filer & the last 70k using just Amsoil oil\filer every 15k. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartan Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I just did mine last night, WITHOUT a 17mm shorty. Instead I used my 17mm racheting wrench. Worked like a charm. I had it out and reinstalled in about 15 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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