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2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal


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I did it, its possible... but remember to grow a third arm out of your ass before attempting...:D

 

I will admit it was tight for the PCV and not the easiest on the BOV... but it can be done.

 

Hell I reused the "hated" pcv clamp that holds it on the inlet tube... That's how good I was at doing it... LOL Some guys can't even get those back on over on the PCV itself nevermind under the intake.

 

If you take the MAP and boost controller sensors off the intake it begins to open it up a little and you can see better when working.

 

My brothers wife is due anytime this weekend, and they live in NJ and I'll probably be headed down there to meet the little guy once he pops out.. Anywhere near Wanamassa NJ? Maybe I could help LOL

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I did it, its possible... but remember to grow a third arm out of your ass before attempting...:D

 

I will admit it was tight for the PCV and not the easiest on the BOV... but it can be done.

 

Hell I reused the "hated" pcv clamp that holds it on the inlet tube... That's how good I was at doing it... LOL Some guys can't even get those back on over on the PCV itself nevermind under the intake.

 

If you take the MAP and boost controller sensors off the intake it begins to open it up a little and you can see better when working.

 

My brothers wife is due anytime this weekend, and they live in NJ and I'll probably be headed down there to meet the little guy once he pops out.. Anywhere near Wanamassa NJ? Maybe I could help LOL

 

LOL.

 

You're actually not too far. Maybe 25 mins away (East Brunswick, NJ).

 

Either that or I'm going to try to patiently wait for a DIY lol.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok seriously, I have a JDM 2.0 2005GT and iv tried REAL hard to get to this sucker and what I want to know is this...

 

Do you guys have an engine mount on the side of your engines right by /attched to the turbo? If so I am desperate to know how in the world you managed to get the banjo off without removing the turbo!!!

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Well seeing this thread is about the 2.5 USDM, I'm assuming its nothing like the 2.0 JDM version. Hell you'll be lucky if the bolt is located in the same spot.

 

lol. Maybe the bolt doesn't even have a filter to begin with. Who knows.

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LOL nice.

 

I guess I should ask before I bother, but is anyone interested in seeing a 07+ USDM How To for cleaning the filter, or removing it? I did get a new inlet and was thinking of replacing it, but its not high on my list of things to do since my current one is not damaged yet.

 

If people are interested I'll try to get a set of photos together and write something up like I did for my SI-Drive cleaning deal.

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LOL nice.

 

I guess I should ask before I bother, but is anyone interested in seeing a 07+ USDM How To for cleaning the filter, or removing it? I did get a new inlet and was thinking of replacing it, but its not high on my list of things to do since my current one is not damaged yet.

 

If people are interested I'll try to get a set of photos together and write something up like I did for my SI-Drive cleaning deal.

 

Very, very, very interested.

 

I suppose a tool recommendation to make the job easier would be awesome as well - I believe I'm referring to that inlet part of the turbo.

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Yes, I'll see what I can do. My fiance is having her shower on Sunday this weekend so I should have a full day where I can f around in the garage, granted I do have some other work to do on the GM, but I think I can fit in a 45min session of Inlet removal. ;)
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SUBARU TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN

APPLICABILITY: ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH TURBO

SUBJECT: TURBOCHARGER MESH FILTER SCREEN

NUMBER: 02-106-08R

DATE: 06/02/09

 

INTRODUCTION:

It is possible that the turbo oil supply mesh filter, which is located inside the banjo bolt that secures the turbocharger oil supply pipe to the back of the right cylinder head, may become clogged thereby preventing oil supply to the turbo resulting in failure. Therefore it is required that this filter screen be checked for obstructions any time a Turbocharger is being replaced for failure.

 

(how about just replacing this part every 60k?)

 

If the mesh screen is found to be obstructed it should be cleaned or replaced. Obstructions could be sludge due to poor engine oil maintenance or harsh driving conditions. Further diagnosis may be required if significant amounts of sludge, metal, and/or other materials are found in the mesh filter screen. In any turbocharger replacement, sufficient oil pressure to the turbocharger should be verified. Please consult the service manual for the appropriate specification.

 

Note: The mesh filter screen is only available with a replacement banjo bolt. (P/N 14445AA090) Tightening torque: 29 N-m (3.0 kgf-m 21.4 ft-lb).

 

Note: Anytime the banjo bolt is removed or replaced, both copper washers must be replaced with new ones.

 

Make sure the mesh filter screen is installed in the proper direction; incorrect installation will prevent oil supply to the turbocharger.

 

Do not confuse the turbocharger oil supply mesh filter screen with the Active Control Valve System (AVCS) union screw mesh filter screen.

Refer to Service Bulletin 02-97-05, dated 10/06/05.

 

Note: In addition, if the turbocharger is replaced, it is required that the oil pan be removed to inspect for sludge, metal, and/or other materials. If found and not removed, catastrophic engine damage could occur including the failure of the replacement turbocharger. Oil supply/returns lines, oil passages, etc should also be checked if questionable. Don't rule out a restricted oil filter. The materials found in the oil pan could also indicate the need for further diagnosis of other engine components.

 

Engine Oil and Oil Filter:

Due to heat generated by the turbocharger and carbon deposits contained in exhaust gas, the oil in a turbocharged engine will deteriorate faster that the oil in a naturally aspirated engine. Therefore, all turbocharged vehicles are classified as "severe driving condition" vehicles and special care should be taken to use the proper grade. The recommend oil and filter change interval for turbocharged vehicles is every 3,750 miles or four months, whichever comes first.

 

Proper lubrication of the turbocharger requires high-quality engine oil. Some do not provide enough lubriation performance or durability when used in turbocharged engines. Using poor quality oil or oil not designed for turbo engines may cause damage to the turbocharger and other engine components. Consequently, it is critical to follow Subaru vehicle owner's and service manuals for recommended oil grade and viscosity.

 

The Subaru Genuine Oil Filter is the oily filter that Subaru has tested to meet requirements for filtration and flow. Aftermarket oil filters may have different filtration performance and relief-valve opening pressure, which could affect filter and engine performance.

 

 

(NOTE THIS APPLIES TO ALL SUBARU TURBOCHARGED ENGINES REGARDLESS OF YEAR OR MODEL)

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I've read every page of this thread as well as many others about oil and oil pressure gauges. I've talked to service "consultants" at 3 different dealerships (not one felt it was worth the money/effort unless I knew of poor OCI or other issue(s)) and I've had a few PM's on the topic as well. I've had the car less than 2 months and it's now approaching 92k. I got new oil in it last week and it's scheduled Tuesday to go in for the complete 90k all-fluid service. For the first 64k the car had excellent care but it's unknown since then yet there are no apparent problems and no indications it has ever been anything but an everyday-car. I intend to get at this filter, as soon as I recover from shoulder surgery, to add one more element of peace of mind.

 

:icon_quesI welcome any constructive comments but my question mostly is on the worthiness of adding an oil pressure gauge. My leaning is to install a new banjo filter (there must have been a reason they were installed in the first place and I've got an aftermarket warranty up to 100k). That being the case, would an oil pressure gauge give indication of a developing problem with the filter if for some reason my planned 3-4k OCI/synthetic oil regimen doesn't prevent filter clogging? (All the service reps said OCI was the key to not having an issue with this filter). [sorry if this should be a new thread or belongs under a different category, I'll be happy to relocate if that's the case.]

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I don't think a pressure gauge will help you much unless your installing that gauge inline going to the turbo. Anywhere else on the block and your just reading the oil galley pressure, that wont tell you if the banjo filter is restricting flow to the turbo.
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So has anyone had this screen checked at a dealer?

 

I have a receipt saying my car had gone in at 67k for the recall notice. When I checked it upon receiving the car (94k) it was quite clean and still in the bolt, so I just removed it and cleaned it up again and sent her back in. With a stock turbo if you keep it clean and keep on the oil changes I see no need to remove the filter and risk sending crap into the turbo. Especially for a car that's daily driven and exposed to contaminates that may make it into the oil.

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^ So does the receipt state that the dealership removed and cleaned the screen? (Side note: I just had my 30,000 service done... tranny, diff and engine oil changed.)
**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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I stand corrected I do not have the receipt, but on Mysubaru.com it shows the recall date and mileage.

 

Description: Recall Campaign Number WVF16-Turbo Charger Oil Supply Pipe

 

Mileage: 67,296

 

Date: 1/21/2009

 

I do not know now if this is the same deal since its not the same code, and it was a recall notice, not the service bulletin.

 

Either way at 95k or whatever it was, my filter was not that dirty.

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<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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I don't think a pressure gauge will help you much unless your installing that gauge inline going to the turbo.

 

After initially thinking about the oil pressure gauge I was coming to the same conclusion. Thanks for the input/confirmation.

 

With a stock turbo if you keep it clean and keep on the oil changes I see no need to remove the filter and risk sending crap into the turbo. Especially for a car that's daily driven and exposed to contaminates that may make it into the oil.

 

This is pretty much my thinking on the why of leaving the filter in as long as I am confident it's OK. The service people didn't ever quote me a price for checking the filter but 3-4 hours was the time they suggested for the process.

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  • 3 weeks later...
So I just got in after spending about 3 hours trying to get the Banjo bolt out. I got everything off with ease except the banjo bolt. I cut one of my wrenches in two and made it as long as I could. It was still only about 6" long and could not provide enough force to get the banjo bolt loose. If people are doing this is there any other trick? Otherwise I might just have to buy an uppipe... I have an OBXT with 80K and run Mobil 1 10w-30.
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I replaced mine on the weekend of the 4th of July. Lots of PB Blast to loosen up the bracket stud nut and the bracket bolt. Took an 18" breaker bar to crack loose the bracket bolt. Just enough room to get a thinwall 14 mm 1/2" drive socket down on to the bolt...a 10" extension....and the breaker bar with 1/2" drive. I had a 17mm extra short wrench for the banjo bolt...but couldn't get enough leverage to crack it loose. Used one from a Great Neck set of metric wrenches....it is 21 cm long....just right to hook on the banjo bolt and get leverage to crack it loose. A regular shorty 17 mm might do it, but I didn't have one. Once it was loose, my extra short 17 mm finished the job. I also used the extra short to torque in the new banjo bolt, but couldn't get enough leverage to get it tight. I have copied the index paint mark off the original bolt to the new one, so I knew where to stop without using a torque wrench, so I hooked on the extra short 17 mm wrench and used the wooden handle of a machinist's hammer to push down on the wrench until the paint mark indexed properly.

 

I also put on a new SPT stainless turbo heatshield when I put it back together.

 

The original banjo bolt had 150k miles on it....no sludge...and one little metal particle trapped in the inlet of the filter. The turbo is original. The first owner religiously changed oil/filter every 3750 with Mobil 1 5W30, and he always idled up on start-up, and idled down on shut-down. Dirty oil, low quality oil or filters, poor oil change practice, failure to idle on startup and shutdown (oil coking in the turbo oil feed line).....all are enemies of the Subaru turbo.

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I had mine removed bout a month ago @105k while doing my timing belt job. very small lil dirt trap in it but looks good @ 105k.

 

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd84/jaxx4k/IMG00198-20100526-1844-1.jpg

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