naimouasta Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 To end I would say that if anyone stumbles on this post, stop what you are doing and buy this. You will fall in love with your car. Oh and if I haven't sold you by now. I smoked the brakes/rotors on a long back road drive (15 miles each way) and now need some brembos, wife wont' be to happy that I need to spend more money. Averaged around 11.5 mpg in 30 miles. +1 and just to update my group-n tophat install. i'm in the middle of it now. i took my koni/springs/tophats apart. discovered that the bearing in the tophat is completely seized!!!!!. ridiculous! this is with 80k miles on them. hopefully this also solves my "memory" steering issues. also tackling front and rear bushings for the front control arm, 4 wheel bearings (1 is really bad, 2 are bad, 1 for insurance), camber bolts, whiteline rear camber kit. will i finish in one day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 with the koni + groupn tops, can i not use the conical washer? the surface area of the bearing where the washer would sit is larger than the spring perch so theres no need for the washer correct? i would just need a spacer or a bunch of 14mm washers on top of the tophat so that i can tighten it down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I used a nice thick washer that ifbiker made himself when he did his Koni/Group N install. It goes on the top of the top mount. I bought his spares, not sure if he made any more. They are GREAT quality. Try sending him a PM to see if he still has any? I didn't use any washers where the spring perch is or wherever else people are putting them. I have zero problems so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 good to know. i found one of these stainless steel things at my local hardware store and used it on top of the tophat. happened to have the correct inner and outer diameter so i used it. no problem so far as far as assembly goes. i just took the allen key screw thing out. http://www.van-cafe.com/shop/images/281.711.109A.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graff48 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I am having Koni inserts and Eibach Pro-kit springs installed on my 05 LGT sedan tomorrow. Are there any addition parts needed? I was planning to re-use the stock top-hats (assuming the bearings aren't seized ). Do the bump stops need modified? -Graff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Are their any springs in production that only drop the car ~.25-.5" total and can be used with Koni's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk6933 Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Are their any springs in production that only drop the car ~.25-.5" total and can be used with Koni's? I know the STi Pinks drop a minimal amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 I am having Koni inserts and Eibach Pro-kit springs installed on my 05 LGT sedan tomorrow. Are there any addition parts needed? I was planning to re-use the stock top-hats (assuming the bearings aren't seized ). Do the bump stops need modified? -Graff Just make sure whoever is installing them has lots of experience with Konis. A Mis-cut can lead to a wasted strut. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 just FYI people. groupn + koni + rallitek = about 3/8 higher in the front. :| the groupn's seem to help the koni's do there job better because they don't flex when compared to the stockers. i was able to dial them back a little bit. satisfied with the performance so far, but not happy with the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 mike @ AZP, do you have pics of where you make the cut? I don't have spares either.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Epic Springs and Koni Inserts, 2005 Legacy GT Wagon (5MT, Base) At nearly 90,000 miles the stock struts were shot. Instead of just replacing them with stock units, I seized the opportunity for an upgrade and got the Koni inserts, Epic springs, and 1/4 inch anti-saggy-butt spacers. I also got four 10mm Geo Metro wheel studs ($1.69 each) from a local auto store because I wasn’t comfortable with less than full thread engagement on the stock studs when the spacer was added. The installation process was straight forward, if time consuming. I used the walkthrough here for reference: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-shock-strut-epic-engineering-spring-install-145744.html A piece of advice on this process – before beginning, and during disassembly, take photos of everything. I took a few photos, and wish I’d taken more. (Which way around did that spring perch sit….? Does the orientation of the top plate matter….? Which way up does the bump stop go...?) I got it figured out eventually and the car is not making any disturbing noises or trying to swerve into the weeds on its own. There were two hangups: First, an impact wrench was required to remove the top nut from the front struts. I tried with a wrench and hex key, but the nuts were simply too tight and the hex socket rounded before the nut came loose. A trip to a local equipment rental store and $30 got an air compressor and hose to power an impact wrench which solved that problem. The second issue was that the Geo Metro wheel studs did not lock into the rear strut mounting plate. I carefully pressed out the old studs and carefully pressed in the new ones (using a vise and socket), but when I tried to tighten the nuts, all four of the studs rotated in their mounting plates. Me under the car holding some vise grips on the stud, and my girlfriend turning a wrench on the nuts eventually got them tightened down. Get your minds out of the gutter. I had it professionally aligned a couple of weeks after installation and nothing was very far out of specification, but adjustments to the camber were necessary. For the Koni adjustable damper settings, initially I had the rebound set at 1 turn from full soft for both front and rear. That was too firm for my taste (at least for the fronts) as the car followed every little dip in the road instead of letting the suspension expand. I then adjusted to 1/2 turn from full soft for all four shock absorbers, and that felt too soft in the rear. Current settings are: Front: 1/2 turn from full soft Rear: 3/4 from full soft This feels good to me. The ride is slightly firmer than stock, but entirely reasonable for the street. Girlfriend gives it her approval. There is some squeaking from the rear springs. I will put some silicone grease between the spring and upper spring perch and see if that helps. Stance looks great. Just like it should have looked straight off the assembly line IMHO.... The stock ride height was: Front: 14 3/4 inch (center of wheel), 26 1/2 inch (ground to arch) Rear: 14 5/8 inch (center of wheel), 26 5/8 inch (ground to arch) After a couple of weeks of settling the ride on the Epics is: Front: 13 3/4 inch (center of wheel), 25 1/2 inch (ground to arch) Rear: 14 inch (center of wheel), 26 inch (ground to arch) That's all pretty much as expected. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the help, walkthroughs (Fred Beans), advice (msprank), pics, and opinions! Photos: http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5130/p1020446m.jpg http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3853/p1020450t.jpg http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/501/p1020449y.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Great write up blue. Your wagon looks great . I'll probably do the 3/8" saggy butt spacers soon (Koni's with IONS). If you do alot of work on your car like most of us do , getting an impact wrench makes alot of sense. You don't even need a compressor these days. I bought a cheap $50 lighter socket plug in model at Pepboys and it has saved the day on many occasions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Great write up blue. Your wagon looks great. Excellent writeup! Thanks for taking the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Guys, can someone be of assistance here - Are the Koni pistons suppose to come back up at full soft? I'm concerned that my Konis are blown, but I've never dealt with hydraulic shocks before...the piston doesn't appear to come back up at all at full soft...this is for ALL 4 shocks. Was there a break in I missed or anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 mike @ AZP, do you have pics of where you make the cut? I don't have spares either.. Cut them as high to the silver ribbon where the piston comes out as you can. I usually line up the pipe cutter along that intersection. I'll see if I can grab a pic tomorrow. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DosRenshos Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 don't recall if this was covered in this thread or not. Does anyone know what the size of the fastener is at the bottom of the strut holding the cartridge in? Mine have both flow the coop. I was very careful to torque properly on install but still managed to lose them. As said before, I would recommend to anyone doing this install that they add a bit of blue loctite to the threads of that bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Guys, can someone be of assistance here - Are the Koni pistons suppose to come back up at full soft? I'm concerned that my Konis are blown, but I've never dealt with hydraulic shocks before...the piston doesn't appear to come back up at all at full soft...this is for ALL 4 shocks. Was there a break in I missed or anything? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadleave Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 They don't rebound, they just damped. Springs bring the pistons back up. I assume you are testing this with the shock off the car ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddoc Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Correct, shocks are off the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Hoping someone can help me. I just installed Koins with Eibach springs and the ride is vary harsh. I can feel every little dip in the road and makes my wife glare at me as we drive down the road! What setting should I use for a smoother ride? I did try halfway like some have suggested. Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Try setting them to full soft and work from there? 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Hoping someone can help me. I just installed Koins with Eibach springs and the ride is vary harsh. I can feel every little dip in the road and makes my wife glare at me as we drive down the road! What setting should I use for a smoother ride? I did try halfway like some have suggested. I've settled on around 1/4 to 1/3 turn from full soft, I think.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 For me, they got softer after they "broke in", about a week or two. So you can start at full soft, then adjust it a quarter turn at a time when it starts to feel bouncy/underdampened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Thanks for the tips. They were Just way too stiff. I was reading to start st full hard and then go down... In the meantime I took a trip with the wife and ended up with her getting a stiff neck and dealing with her wrath! Lol I switched to full soft and am now 1/4 turn on rear and it feels pretty good. I'm probably going to turn the fronts up a bit too and see how I like the ride. Part of the issue is our horrible roads in western NY! Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I actually set all four corners to full stiff yesterday. It's quite bouncy, but I like taking on/off ramps even more like this 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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