N.sane

The measurement refers to the diamater of the muffler; larger muffler, quieter exhaust. So he's got the axle-back rather than the muffler delete.

Yea, you'd sound similar to a GT since 05's got unequal length headers in stock form.

Sounds great! If I'm not mistaken, the Bosal is the same as version 1 of the SPT?

That "black box" holds your transmission fluid if I'm not mistaken (can't tell since I don't see the drain plug). Mine also has that grid pattern. Updated first post in order of model year and removed videos that no longer work. For the 4th gens, it's UEL videos first, then ones with stock headers. Here's a new video from myself. It was intended to be a cone cam since I wanted to know how close I was getting with the right-side of the car. Turned out to be a pretty good exhaust cam as well. AVO axle-back only: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iibGXsstbBY]2013 VCMC Auto X Cup #4 - Personal Best (56.691) - YouTube[/ame]

Dubz, I think what hes trying to say is that it's never been done before with your particular setup. Honestly, I've NEVER seen any other 2.5i with those headers; you're special Those headers look freakishly long before they even reach the mid-pipe. Assuming the heads are the same as other 2.5i's, the OEM LGT manifold will bolt-up to the head no problem. The problem is connecting it to the rest of the exhaust.

Hmm, after hearing those clips, I do agree that using an OEM manifold from a turbo Subaru sounds better (has more rumble) than the RalliSport. Makes me want to get mine installed soon; I've got an OEM LGT manifold that's been sitting in my closet for the last 2.5 years Gotta get the timing belt and head gasket done first, that'll hurt the wallet.

Unfortunately, 2010+ 2.5i don't have the dual exhaust setup like the LGT, so options will be very limited. If you don't want to spend $800+ for a JDM piece, I'd suggest buying a universal Vibrant Performance or Magnaflow muffler and take it to an exhaust shop to weld it up.

Wow, it's been a while since I've seen those photos lol. You have a GTO now? Dafuq?! What happened to the Spec.B?

If you're on stock suspension and don't do much hard driving, I would go 17x7 or 17x7.5 with an offset that's at least +45. With these wheel sizes, the following tire sizes are the most suitable and the descriptions are my opinion of what they offer: 205/50/17: Most fuel efficient; however, you get the least curb protection for your wheels and will have the least grip of the group. Diameter is close to the stock 205/55/16, so gearing won't be effected. I would only recommend this as a winter size on a 17x7 since narrower is better for snow/ice. However, I'm guessing you would use your stock 16's for winter. 215/45/17: Best overall performance size for 17x7. Improved acceleration since the diameter is slightly smaller than stock, creating the effect of shorter gearing. Easier acceleration maintains fuel efficiency. You also get sharper steering response since there's less sidewall, and as a result, a slightly less comfortable ride. I use this size personally on my 17x7 since I value performance over comfort. 225/45/17: Best overall performance size for 17x7.5; the widest that's recommended for 17x7. It will give you more overall grip than the 215/45, but on a 17x7, you'll sacrifice a little steering response but maintain ride comfort. The wider contact patch may decrease gas mileage slightly. Diameter is close to the stock 205/55/16, so gearing won't be effected. 235/45/17: The widest that's recommended for 17x7.5. May give you a little more overall grip than the 225/45, but you'll sacrifice steering response. The wider contact patch, larger diameter, and increased weight will decrease acceleration performance and fuel efficiency, but will give the best ride comfort. Cliff Notes for 17x7 205/50/17 - fuel efficient and comfort, but with the least grip and curb protection 215/45/17 - fuel efficient with good steering response and improved acceleration, but less comfort 225/45/17 - best overall grip and comfort and most curb protection, but less steering response Cliff Notes for 17x7.5 205/50/17 - fuel efficient and comfort, but with the least grip and curb protection 215/45/17 - fuel efficient with sharp steering response and improved acceleration, but less comfort 225/45/17 - good steering response, overall grip, and comfort 235/45/17 - sloppy steering response and least fuel efficient, but most comfortable and most curb protection

What's your goal though? A blend of performance and comfort or low and stiff to prepare for some hellaflush wheels?

Dont you want tips on your mufflers? Choose from this link: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/streetmufflers.asp I personally like the 14829. For a classier look, I like the Vibrant Performance 1034: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1031_1108_1196

Updated with clips of a 2012 with Perrin axle-back. The videos on the first page are somewhat in chronological order by model year. By somewhat, I mean the 06-09 will be mixed since they all sound the same.

They sell both 2.5" and 3" for the mid-pipe. I'd go with the 2.5" on an N/A.

Yea, the low-rev range you mainly use for daily driving. If I were you, Id get a set of decent universal mufflers e.g. Magnaflow or Vibrant Performance and then to go a reputable exhaust shop to make a custom axle-back. You might pay a bit more, but you won't lose power, get the sound you want, and they won't rust. Just something to think about ;-)

Yea, if it fits an 05-09 LGT, it should fit 06-09 2.5i. Again, be aware you that will lose low-end power. Also, eBay stuff is known to rust pretty quickly. You get what you pay for.

^Yes. Expect to lose a bit of low-end power from the larger diameter piping though (most LGT cat-backs are 3").

$650 is actually the lowest I've seen. Most vendors sell them for $699. I got lucky and bought them used locally for $350, but had to pay an exhaust shop to weld them on because the previous owner chopped the flanges off for some reason... With most, if not all car modifications, you get what you pay for. The AVO units are high-quality resonated mufflers, shine beautifully, and will not rust like the cheap stuff on eBay. The tone is deep and the perfect volume for a daily driver.

I guess I should add a couple of things: 1) IAM isn't just affected by your fuel grade. I think anything that affects the combustion cycle is a factor i.e. spark plugs. 2) About halfway through the fresh tank of premium, he suggested resetting the ECU. This can be achieved by disconnecting the battery and then stepping on the brake for several seconds so the 3rd brake light drains any remaining juice.

Yep, just the mufflers. The rest of the exhaust is stock.

I copied and pasted this from the come in if you are N/A thread: I made an interesting discovery recently after getting my diff fluid changed at an independent Subaru shop. The owner was nice/curious enough to plug-in his Open Source software to check the IAM (Ignition Advance Multiplier) of my car, something that's not really discussed much with the 2.5i. Without getting too detailed, the IAM value will range from 0-16 (increments of 4) on older Subarus, and 0.00-1.00 (increments of 0.25) on newer Subarus. The higher the value, the better (engine is knock-free and running efficiently). My initial value was 0.50, so the shop owner suggested I run premium fuel on my next tank of gas, so I did. I've used a full tank of premium now, and I can definitely say that the engine runs smoother and feels more potent (feels like I restored lost power; inclines that usually required a downshift is no longer needed; acceleration is noticeably stronger) and my gas mileage has also improved during my daily drive to work. I went back to the shop to check the IAM value again and it's now at 1.00, so the car is definitely "happier" and operating at the ideal IAM. The funny thing is, in Europe and Australia (and probably Japan), the Legacy 2.0i/2.5i is recommended to take 95 RON, which is equivalent to 91 octane. It seems SOA thinks recommending regular fuel for the N/A cars will help them sell more cars to customers who want to save money at the pumps? I compared receipts, and it's only an $8 increase for about 50 litres (13.2 gallons) between 87 and 94 octane. However, the cost difference will be offset by the extra distance you'll drive from the better gas mileage. My 2.5i brethren, I encourage you to get your IAM checked out and bring it to an optimal figure if it isn't optimal already. You'll love the difference.

Well look who it is, traitor! How are you enjoying your torque steer?

That car is sold. Not sure of the new owner is active on here though. And you have an 08, so you'll also need 07 headlights, fenders, and probably the hood too.

Damn you guys and your highway mileage. However, city mileage is actually quite decent with these cars, considering they're heavy and AWD. I can get about 310 miles (500km) from a full tank until the gas light illuminates. Highway driving probably only happens twice a month.

http://alltheragefaces.com/img/faces/jpg/misc-seriously.jpg

If you have the money and want something that's high-quality and bolt-on, get some AVO mufflers. You can buy them from AVO directly, username apexjapan, or from Fred Beans Parts. The cheaper alternative is to buy a pair of universal mufflers, e.g. Magnaflow, and bring them to your local exhaust shop so they can chop off your OEM mufflers and weld-on the aftermarket mufflers.