Koni dampers for Legacy

[AZP Installs]

Yeah they have some nice pipe cutters at Home Depot/Lowes. That's how we do it.

 

We cut it as high as possible, but make sure they nubs will be below the cut. If they are above the cut then you will need new donor housings.

 

-mike

 

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AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[scottyg7171]

Does anyone know if the stock 2.5i tophats off my '09 legacy are the same as the lgt's?

[apexjr]

I can not recommend Shox.com for one simple issue. When I placed the order I expected things were in stock and would ship within a day or two at most. I placed my order on the 28th and they won't receive two of them until 10th, two weeks later, and then they will ship them. So order to delivery is around a month. The site showed no indication of this what so ever.

 

Please do yourself a favor, if you value your time and money spend more some where else so that you would know you will get it in X period of time. As of this posting I have no idea when I will get them. Just got off the phone and they said 'That is why we give you an ETA'.

 

I told them, 'had I known you didn't have them in stock and I wouldn't get them for nearly a month after I placed the order I would have never ordered them from you.' Live and learn, never place an order for something that doesn't guarantee it is in stock or will ship in 1 or 2 days max.

[AZP Installs]

To their defense and I have no reason to defend them, Koni is having issues meeting demand right now. I know that the guys with the WRX 08+ have been waiting for 2 months to get their Konis. But yeah if they don't have them in stock they should at least let you know.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[naimouasta]

yea my brother just got some koni's for his 09 wrx. from shox.com. on backorder :|

[JohnnyT]

I got mine form Fred Bean Parts in April. They shipped to m sprank the next day. He assembled them and shipped them abck to me. I've had them on for a couple of weeks now (Konis w/ Epic Engineering Springs) and I love them. I have them set half way between full soft and full firm. That setting is great for the roads I drive on a regular basis, but last night my wife and I drove to NE Philly from the Scranton area (about 130 miles) down the PA Turnpike. What a terrible, terrible road. The pavement is heaved about every 100 feet or so with tar joints and potholes. Needless to say, the ride was punishing. My wife and I looked like two bobble heads riding in the car. Idon't think even the OEM suspension would have felt any better. Even through all that I still got the wife's approval on the Koni-Epics - Yes!

 

Tirerack also had Konis on sale for 20% off through 5/31. Too late now though.

[mk6933]

I got my Konis for about 1000 miles now. Ride is better then stock, maybe its my springs? I have Swifts. Still feels a little bit bouncy. Mike (m sprank) adjusted them half way. Overall, I'm pretty happy with them. I might turn it more firm to see how it feels. I got them brand new for 469 from a vendor from NASIOC.

[uberwagon]

I got my Konis for about 1000 miles now. Ride is better then stock, maybe its my springs? I have Swifts. Still feels a little bit bouncy. Mike (m sprank) adjusted them half way. Overall, I'm pretty happy with them. I might turn it more firm to see how it feels. I got them brand new for 469 from a vendor from NASIOC.

 

Link to the vendor ?? Thanks !!

[peteyjr]

Get rid of your Swifts. They are so low , you lose too much suspension travel. I switched them out for IONS (With Koni's) and the ride improved remarkably

 

 

I got my Konis for about 1000 miles now. Ride is better then stock, maybe its my springs? I have Swifts. Still feels a little bit bouncy. Mike (m sprank) adjusted them half way. Overall, I'm pretty happy with them. I might turn it more firm to see how it feels. I got them brand new for 469 from a vendor from NASIOC.

[mk6933]

Get rid of your Swifts. They are so low , you lose too much suspension travel. I switched them out for IONS (With Koni's) and the ride improved remarkably

 

I actually wanted to go lower So not switching out my springs for something else. I had Epic Springs > Megan Coilovers > Swifts.

[AZP Installs]

The problem with going too low is that you loose upward travel due to the geometry of the suspension. There is a limit on the drop you can do and still have a well handling car.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[peteyjr]

What Mike says is true, we lack suspension travel. Handling and ride quality will deteriorate. I loved the low look of the swifts and miss the look but not the ride. I almost went with KW coils but am really enjoying the Koni/spring setup. Car is trackable and very comfy . My days of slammed bouncy rides are a thing of the past.

 

I actually wanted to go lower So not switching out my springs for something else. I had Epic Springs > Megan Coilovers > Swifts.

[naimouasta]

ok so i just finally ordered some group-n tophats (from rallispec, rstl-419) to replace my jello tophats for my 2.5i. i have rallitek springs + koni's and i think they've finally beat the crap out of the tophats. also since they flex so much, i think its making the koni's work harder? i just have a few questions.

 

1. is there a big difference between the group-n and spec-b in terms of NVH?

 

2. is the group-n anywhere as harsh as metal tophat/camber plates?

 

3. will it raise my car since i have KYB style struts, not bilstein's? i think i read somewhere that dimensionally the mounting/contact points are the same and will not raise my car. it will probably raise my car a little since the 2.5i tophat flexes so much?

 

4. i read that i need a spacer for these to work with koni's. some people use washers but i've also read somewhere that someone was making spacers, who? are the spacers simply cylindrical with a hole in it or is it more complicated than that to make? 5. do these add any caster by any chance?

[AZP Installs]

Ok a few things...

 

1) They are not as harsh as solid metal strut tops

2) Group N ARE Spec B tops

3) If you are using KYB, Koni, or Tokico struts, you will need to put your conical washer at the top of the front struts and ADD a washer in order to be able to tighten down the tops to the strut rod. You can also buy (which we stock) the TIC adapters made to allow the Konis/KYB style to work with Group N/Spec B strut tops.

You car will be raised a hair in the front.

4) you can use your OEM Conical Washers + Lowes Washers or the TIC Adapters. The key is you need the top portion to be tapered.

 

Caster is adjusted by the Lower Control Arm Bushings, not the struts/strut tops.

 

-mike

[StoplightAssassin]

If anybody would like a spare set of GT struts w/ or w/o stock sedan springs to do this, I'll be putting mine up for sale.

 

PM me or look for it in the FS section

[naimouasta]

2) Group N ARE Spec B tops

-mike

 

wait, from reading a few posts people were saying they are the same style top's but group n's are stiffer? is this true or not? there is a price difference between the two, but then again i was looking at different vendors. if they are indeed the same part number, i just get jacked.

[AZP Installs]

When I bought mine, I got the Group N from RS as well. I later found out that the Group N are the same part number as far as I know as the Spec B tops.

 

Different vendors have different prices all the time, that's how the cookie crumbles sometimes

 

If they are different that would be good as that's what I always thought myself but was informed differently, somewhere on this site.

 

-mike

[naimouasta]

well there's actually a different part number for the "group-n sti" hat, its ST2032021000 vs the specb hat, 20320AG01A; but then again i think subaru uses different part numbers for the same parts sometimes. *sigh*

 

ok enough bumping koni thread.

 

KONI's FTW.

[N.sane]

I got my Koni's installed with STI Group N top mounts too. The Koni's are the best mod I've ever done to this car

[naimouasta]

with koni's and group-n tophats (even the stock tophats), what do you guys use to cover up the bearing so dust/salt doesn't get into it (also keep the koni's from corrosion)? with the stock tophat, i just used the stock dust cover and cut a slit with the koni adjustment poking through.

 

ideas?

[N.sane]

Your idea sounds best. Mine's naked

[sabotaged]

just had these installed today with ralliteks and a whiteline RSB. anyone with ralliteks and konis as well, what do you have your konis dialed to? i just asked the shop to put both front and back on medium.

 

it's been very satisfying so far, especially how dips on the highway get soaked up much quicker. on corners i can now feel like it seems my re960as tires are the limiting factor..

[apexjr]

I am installing mine tomorrow with Ralliteks too. I'll let you know how it goes and what I end up setting them at. I was going to start at 50% as well. I have a number of key spots on the roads I travel and HWY that are awful for the suspension as it is right now. Hopefully that is all cured by tomorrow evening.

 

I will be measuring 5 times and cutting once, hopefully I get it right. I've heard 30mm from the top and AZP said as high as you can spin your pipe cutter, so that is what I plan to do... I also have a band saw at my disposal should I need it. Wish me luck... I have no spares.

[AZP Installs]

I am installing mine tomorrow with Ralliteks too. I'll let you know how it goes and what I end up setting them at. I was going to start at 50% as well. I have a number of key spots on the roads I travel and HWY that are awful for the suspension as it is right now. Hopefully that is all cured by tomorrow evening.

 

I will be measuring 5 times and cutting once, hopefully I get it right. I've heard 30mm from the top and AZP said as high as you can spin your pipe cutter, so that is what I plan to do... I also have a band saw at my disposal should I need it. Wish me luck... I have no spares.

 

Good luck. How did it go?

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[apexjr]

Well the install was a bit of a PITA, but it was worth the effort! This is probably my 6th car I've lowered, and maybe the 10th time I've taken springs and shocks in and out. First I have to say that my dad is a mechanic so I have every tool I need at my disposal, shop and lift included. Second, I do the work myself with my friend and try to never bother him unless I am totally stuck. I try to knock it out even if it would take me twice as long.

 

Regarding the fronts. Followed the instructions as I found else where and it went smooth. Drilled the bottom, plugged the hole, cut the top, empty internals, drill 1/2 inch hole in the bottom, install shock, used locktite. My cut on the strut was with the pipe cutter aligned with the bottom part of the chrome piece on the top of the strut and seemed to be perfect. The cut seemed to flare the strut hosing in on the top edge which I had to file down to be flat again. Otherwise they went on very smooth. Fronts don't require a spring compressor, just have a friend push down on it while you put the nut on the top.

 

Rears were the same as when I put the Rallitek springs on the stock shocks, however this time I had a bit more trouble. Mainly my problems came down to using the Autozone type of spring/strut compressor and not having enough compression (it works it is just a PITA). I learned to use the spring compressor my dad has on the wall and it went smooth after that. Forgot to put the dust boot on so I had to pull them off the car and put them back on. By that point we were experts and it took maybe 30 minutes to take them off and put them back on (total both sides). This is also the first time I needed to use a 9mm to tighten the top hat down while holding the nut.

 

NOTE: Increments of 25% work best for me. So I am going to say that these shocks adjust from 0% - 200%.

 

Now about handling and ride. WOW! I can't believe it makes that big of a difference. It is no more stiffer then it was before, just without all the bouncing. It is quite a bit stiffer then stock, which is to be expected and wanted if you have this much power (you need something buttoned down at speed). I have a section of the HWY that has these big rolling bumps, about three in a row. When you hit it at around 60 mph with stock shocks and ralliteks springs it would bounce really bad about six times before it would settle out. Now it is down to three as you would expect. I ran this section of hwy (jumping on and off the ramps late that night) testing a ton of settings. I tested different settings like F: 125% R:100%, F:125% R:125%, F:75% R:75%, and so on. I also drove up and down a 25 mph road that is WAY uneven and bounces cars all over the place (no pot holes). I found that F:75% R:75% is nearly perfect for the street. Crappy roads will still be crappy roads, but your favorite back mountain road will be awesome. If you knew you were going to drag, tighten up the back. If you knew you were going to hit the track, tighten up both. I would say F:125% and R:125% on the track, or if you had a long section of back roads you want to tear up. I took a long sweeper (the kind you start in at a lower speed 35ish and just roll into full throttle at apex) with a quick and short bump in it and this time the car soaked it up. The rear dropped a bit and slowly came back up.

 

I knew turn-in and general steering response would be better, but I didn't know it would be this much better! I found at F:75% the steering is even (heavier then before), but at F:125% it is heavy. Both have there benefits.

 

To end I would say that if anyone stumbles on this post, stop what you are doing and buy this. You will fall in love with your car. Oh and if I haven't sold you by now. I smoked the brakes/rotors on a long back road drive (15 miles each way) and now need some brembos, wife wont' be to happy that I need to spend more money. Averaged around 11.5 mpg in 30 miles.