hadvw Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I actually set all four corners to full stiff yesterday. It's quite bouncy, but I like taking on/off ramps even more like this Well, that's the beauty of the adjustability - do whatever you want when you're by yourself, then go back to "not social outcast" mode when you have passengers.. My kids love bumps (we pretend they're roller coasters).. I might crank things up to full stiff (at least up front - back is harder to get to in the wagon) just for kicks for a day.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjr Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Well it has been 3 months now and I still love them. For a reminder I have stock sway bars and Rallitek springs. I have adjusted them from anywhere between 25% and 125%. 75% (3/4 turn) is over dampened but reduces sway enough that make you believe you don't need bigger sway bars for street driving (for the most part). I have however settled on 50% (1/2 turn). I find the ride a lot more enjoyable for daily driving then at 75%. My daughter also doesn't comment that the ride is bouncey either. I think 1/3 turn and a couple MM increase in sway bar might be 100% perfect. But for what I do, this is really close. Might be close enough. If you are on the fence, don't be. Just buy them! Well the install was a bit of a PITA, but it was worth the effort! This is probably my 6th car I've lowered, and maybe the 10th time I've taken springs and shocks in and out. First I have to say that my dad is a mechanic so I have every tool I need at my disposal, shop and lift included. Second, I do the work myself with my friend and try to never bother him unless I am totally stuck. I try to knock it out even if it would take me twice as long. Regarding the fronts. Followed the instructions as I found else where and it went smooth. Drilled the bottom, plugged the hole, cut the top, empty internals, drill 1/2 inch hole in the bottom, install shock, used locktite. My cut on the strut was with the pipe cutter aligned with the bottom part of the chrome piece on the top of the strut and seemed to be perfect. The cut seemed to flare the strut hosing in on the top edge which I had to file down to be flat again. Otherwise they went on very smooth. Fronts don't require a spring compressor, just have a friend push down on it while you put the nut on the top. Rears were the same as when I put the Rallitek springs on the stock shocks, however this time I had a bit more trouble. Mainly my problems came down to using the Autozone type of spring/strut compressor and not having enough compression (it works it is just a PITA). I learned to use the spring compressor my dad has on the wall and it went smooth after that. Forgot to put the dust boot on so I had to pull them off the car and put them back on. By that point we were experts and it took maybe 30 minutes to take them off and put them back on (total both sides). This is also the first time I needed to use a 9mm to tighten the top hat down while holding the nut. NOTE: Increments of 25% work best for me. So I am going to say that these shocks adjust from 0% - 200%. Now about handling and ride. WOW! I can't believe it makes that big of a difference. It is no more stiffer then it was before, just without all the bouncing. It is quite a bit stiffer then stock, which is to be expected and wanted if you have this much power (you need something buttoned down at speed). I have a section of the HWY that has these big rolling bumps, about three in a row. When you hit it at around 60 mph with stock shocks and ralliteks springs it would bounce really bad about six times before it would settle out. Now it is down to three as you would expect. I ran this section of hwy (jumping on and off the ramps late that night) testing a ton of settings. I tested different settings like F: 125% R:100%, F:125% R:125%, F:75% R:75%, and so on. I also drove up and down a 25 mph road that is WAY uneven and bounces cars all over the place (no pot holes). I found that F:75% R:75% is nearly perfect for the street. Crappy roads will still be crappy roads, but your favorite back mountain road will be awesome. If you knew you were going to drag, tighten up the back. If you knew you were going to hit the track, tighten up both. I would say F:125% and R:125% on the track, or if you had a long section of back roads you want to tear up. I took a long sweeper (the kind you start in at a lower speed 35ish and just roll into full throttle at apex) with a quick and short bump in it and this time the car soaked it up. The rear dropped a bit and slowly came back up. I knew turn-in and general steering response would be better, but I didn't know it would be this much better! I found at F:75% the steering is even (heavier then before), but at F:125% it is heavy. Both have there benefits. To end I would say that if anyone stumbles on this post, stop what you are doing and buy this. You will fall in love with your car. Oh and if I haven't sold you by now. I smoked the brakes/rotors on a long back road drive (15 miles each way) and now need some brembos, wife wont' be to happy that I need to spend more money. Averaged around 11.5 mpg in 30 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I'm at 3/4 turn from full soft paired with Eibach springs and have a JDM RSB and Whiteline offset LCA bushings. For DD its pretty good, and still stiff enough to take a spirited drive w/o any adjustments. IMO Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I would recommend adding a bigger rear sway bar (20mm or so). The front bar is fine for street driving. The bigger RSB will improve the balance, getting rid of the inherent understeer, and improve turn-in. You will notice the change in the handling. I have an AVO 20mm adjusted to the firmer of two settings but there other alternatives out there. Now it's my turn to put the Konis on to my Rallitek springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanjk3 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I thought there was a vendor on here that sold front Konis already installed in a used strut. Or was it just a feeler to gauge interest? Most shops won't cut struts to do a Koni install. I don't really feel like driving up to Fred Beans to have them installed, not sure they'd have time for that on a Saturday anyways. Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I thought there was a vendor on here that sold front Konis already installed in a used strut. Or was it just a feeler to gauge interest? Most shops won't cut struts to do a Koni install. I don't really feel like driving up to Fred Beans to have them installed, not sure they'd have time for that on a Saturday anyways. You are more than welcome to come up to our shop in Central NJ. We have the Koni's prebuilt for the Legacies so we can easily do such an install on a Saturday. Feel free to call or e-mail us and we'll setup an appt for you. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Since it's been a while since I asked - what about Konis for an '06 Outback? 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 has anyone ran koni's with aftermarket springs without sway bars? If so, what springs can be used to provide enough stiffness for this setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 I had my Vogtland/Koni setup for a bit before I installed the JDM LGT 20mm rear sway bar. The Koni's took away most of the body roll; I barely noticed the rear sway bar. Vogtland's are very similar in rates with the Eibach/Epic/MSI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 I'm on ralliteks right now, not stiff enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 I remember the RalliTEK's having a stiffer rate. I can let you know the exact rates when I get home. Doing OT at work right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Stock F: 3.5 R: 5.5 Eibach/Epic/MSI F: 3.0 - 4.0 R: 3.0 - 6.0 RalliTEK F: 5.5 - 6.1 R: 4.3 - 6.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 It's not just about stiffness. Handling is also about roll balance. Springs are primarily about compliance, and sway bars are about roll. Springs and bars will both affect each but they have a different purpose. I think if you run a stiff front bar and a soft rear bar you'll get understeer. Using the springs to adjust roll balance may be using the wrong tool. But if you don't mind the understeer, it doesn't matter so much. The car will be firm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Stock F: 3.5 R: 5.5 Eibach/Epic/MSI F: 3.0 - 4.0 R: 3.0 - 6.0 RalliTEK F: 5.5 - 6.1 R: 4.3 - 6.5 why do the aftermarket spring rates have such a big rate gap? so if i go to the rallitek springs, the fronts will definitely get stiffer but the rears can get softer because the stock rate is 5.5 and the rear ralliteks range from 4.3 - 6.5? sorry i'm a noob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 The aftermarket springs I mentioned use progessive spring rates. In a nutshell, the first number is the starting rate. As you corner harder and the springs compress, the spring rate increases, up to the end rate. Lower rate for smooth cruising and stiffer rate when you corner hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08LGT80 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 are there springs that are fixed rate? if so, which ones are good for 2008 LGT Limited? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 most entry-level coilovers are non-progressive. but tmh for a street driven car, progressive helps the ride a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Question: Would it be weird to install the rear 3/4 spacers on a sedan? I bought a used set and was wondering if it would look weird. I don't want to play by trial and error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 It depends on what springs you're using. The Koni's dont effect ride height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 I'm using rallitek springs. I was thinking it would lift the rear a little, wondering it would be noticeable. Or would it help on loads in the trunk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Since it's been a while since I asked - what about Konis for an '06 Outback? You will need LGT front cores to put the koni inserts into. They dont fit inside the OB front housings as they are longer. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I just installed the rears with the 3/8 shims. The adjusting knob doesn't fit or reach the knob. What did you guys use to adjust it? It looks so fragile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 The knob that came with it works fine.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW25gt Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Make a cut out notch big enough to get the knob in. My weather tray covers the hole. Maybe 1.75 inches wide and 1.5 inches tall. Each side. I just installed the rears with the 3/8 shims. The adjusting knob doesn't fit or reach the knob. What did you guys use to adjust it? It looks so fragile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordchilly Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks...that will be last resort to cut anything. Im trying think about fabricating one with a aluminum dowel (curtain rod) and clamp it to that size and drill a hole for a "T" handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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