Koni dampers for Legacy

[CTSubiefan]

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate any advice you might have.

[m sprank]

The SpecB top hat will raise the front of the car about 3/8" or so. The rears are the same as non SpecB. The problem with the fronts and Konis is that the Koni shaft is not the same size as the bearing in the SpecB tophat. You can use them, but there could be some play between the shaft and bearing. SpecB tophats use a much larger bearing with a larger center bore.

[cucamelsmd15]

Anyone thinking about buying I just found a koni dealer who is selling these for super cheap. Under $500 shipped for a set of 4.

 

thmotorsports.com, coupon code taxbreak2010

 

Im not affiliated with them just stumbled across them in my search for the lowest price.

Im glad I checked into this thread today.

[AZP Installs]

The SpecB top hat will raise the front of the car about 3/8" or so. The rears are the same as non SpecB. The problem with the fronts and Konis is that the Koni shaft is not the same size as the bearing in the SpecB tophat. You can use them, but there could be some play between the shaft and bearing. SpecB tophats use a much larger bearing with a larger center bore.

 

I'm not sure about the SpecB top hats (fronts) but I do have experience with the Group N tophats in the front. The issue is not the centerbore on them, it is rather the length of the shaft itself and the amount of threading on the Konis (or stock LGT struts for that matter). The issue that arrises is that there is not enough threaded shaft to snug down the top hats, even if you bottom the nut down on the threads. Hence you need a SS Washer from Lowes or Home Depot under the conical washer that goes below the Top Hat, and above the upper perch for the spring. This raises up the base of the top hat and allows you to fully tighten down the nut onto the konis or stock strut's shaft.

 

-mike

[AZP Installs]

I'm currently running Konis with Cobb springs. I have 18x7.5 SSR Type F wheels and Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta 225/40-18. There is very little room between the top of the tire and the plastic wheel well liner. In fact, my passenger liner came loose (probably after some rubbing) this past week and got shredded. Previously, I have only heard rubbing when the wheels are turned full left or right when in tight parking situations.

 

I'm wondering about adding the specB strut top mounts. Am I correct to think this will give me about an extra inch of space in there? I assume I would also need a washer for the bolt on the front mount and the spacer for the rears to keep the ride height balanced. Otherwise this is bolt on, right? Do I need anything else or am I missing something?

 

PS. I have read this entire thread as it has unfolded, I just don't have the time/patience to reread the entire thing. I know AZP has tons of experience on these and would love any advice or thoughts.

 

Thanks.

 

 

As a followup to my last post, based on how thick a washer you put in there, you can effective raise or lower the suspension. I would think you could go as much as there is extra threads on the shaft. Make sure that the threads on the shaft and on the nut are all being used. Anything less than a full coverage of the nut area will lead to a failure of the nut to hold it all together.

 

-mike

[m sprank]

Like Mike (from AZP) I have opposite experience. Never had the GroupN, just the SpecB. Probably the same. SpecB bearing is taller too. The threading would be the same issue. The washer trick would work, just not my fav.

[CTSubiefan]

Definitely appreciate the help. Has anybody seen the specB and GroupN's side by side for a comparison. I think the GroupN's cost a little bit more. If there is a difference, I might go that route. It sounds like they have been successfully paired with Koni's and people have been very happy with the combo.

 

m sprank,

downpipe arrived today. Installing it this weekend.

Thanks again.

[m sprank]

No problem. Enjoy.

[bgLGT]

ifbiker made some SS spacers to mate Group N's to Koni's. I sold them with my set of Koni's but he might run some more if there is enough interest. They looked really nice!

[jvento]

I really hate my koni's but I think I hate my springs to..

[N.sane]

I really hate my koni's but I think I hate my springs to..

 

Why do you have to keep $hitting on this thread? You already told us you hate them pages ago. We get it, you're the only member that doesn't like them

[ClimberDHexMods]

I really hate my koni's but I think I hate my springs to..

 

May I suggest a Mercedes Benz. Or a Porsche if you prefer sportier cars. Or Ferrari. I've heard they all know how to setup a car pretty well. Not like these puny legacies.

[rporter]

May I suggest a Mercedes Benz. Or a Porsche if you prefer sportier cars. Or Ferrari. I've heard they all know how to setup a car pretty well. Not like these puny legacies.

 

Well, I can half understand if you haven't set the Konis to compliment the springs.

 

Remember that, for a given spring, there is only one setting spot that effectively dampens the spring. To set the Koni on a harder setting is a band-aid appoach to get a stiffer spring rate.

 

IMO, this is the problem with many coilovers. Ideally, the lowest setting has enough dampening to handle the spring. Anything harder is doing a band-aid to artificailly increase the spring rate.

 

My kSport coilovers are this way. With the 7000/9000 springs I got with the group buy, it takes at least the middle setting to dampen the springs. I should get the 6000/8000 springs to have it be more flexible.

 

FWIW, I had Koni inserts for years on my Taurus SHOs, which were one of the few choices available, and with Eibachs it toook a middle setting to adequately dampen the spring.

[ClimberDHexMods]

^^^ Add that fact to the fact that PROPERLY setting up a suspension setup is very difficult and benefits greatly from hard-earned experience, and you have the reason for why there is so much poop tossed around in these forums. Add subjective and changing user preferences to the mix, and people are not going to get the black and white answers or outcomes they have unfortunately come to expect.

 

Hell, my old man prefers the suspension of a Toyota Camry / Lexus ES to a Audi A6

[rporter]

^^^ Add that fact to the fact that PROPERLY setting up a suspension setup is very difficult and benefits greatly from hard-earned experience, and you have the reason for why there is so much poop tossed around in these forums. Add subjective and changing user preferences to the mix, and people are not going to get the black and white answers or outcomes they have unfortunately come to expect.

 

Hell, my old man prefers the suspension of a Toyota Camry / Lexus ES to a Audi A6

 

I hear ya!!

 

My LGT is absolutely hell on the roads around here, and I've already dented the oil pan.

 

BUT, as soon as I leave the state to IN, OH, or even Ontario, the roads smooth out and it rides great. Plus, with the Cobb bars and the coilovers (plus 615 Azenis tires) it kicks ass on any road course I've been on.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Well there's your solution. Move to a municipality or state that has a road maintenance budget. I would imagine anything remotely near Detroit has $0.00 allocated to anything but the most severe emergency situations, or something like that. Not going to lie, my move to Texas was in part due to the fact I like to go fast. Trouble is they don't build curves here With good alignment you can go minutes without actually pulling on the wheel.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I know this may have been answered in the past 960 posts, but has there been any discussion on the weight of a Koni strut assembly either front or rear vs either stock?

[MDork]

Well there's your solution. Move to a municipality or state that has a road maintenance budget. I would imagine anything remotely near Detroit has $0.00 allocated to anything but the most severe emergency situations, or something like that. Not going to lie, my move to Texas was in part due to the fact I like to go fast. Trouble is they don't build curves here With good alignment you can go minutes without actually pulling on the wheel.

 

Dave you need to either go to Austin or keep moving west.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Wondering what a Koni assembly weighs each for front and rear. Can anyone weigh one front and one rear after doing the strut mod?

 

Dave you need to either go to Austin or keep moving west.

 

Don't understand But grew up in SF and hated it immensely (no offense to the bay or those who like it). CHP is evil! Just isn't for me, though I'm going to court for a lidar ticket here in TX so I guess you just can't have it all. Was in a damn Volvo too...

[hadvw]

Wondering what a Koni assembly weighs each for front and rear. Can anyone weigh one front and one rear after doing the strut mod?

 

 

 

Don't understand But grew up in SF and hated it immensely (no offense to the bay or those who like it). CHP is evil! Just isn't for me, though I'm going to court for a lidar ticket here in TX so I guess you just can't have it all. Was in a damn Volvo too...

 

I agree that CHP isn't that great.. But, it does have some perks (living in Fremont, not in SF).

[toreadorranger]

Wondering what a Koni assembly weighs each for front and rear. Can anyone weigh one front and one rear after doing the strut mod?

 

 

 

Don't understand But grew up in SF and hated it immensely (no offense to the bay or those who like it). CHP is evil! Just isn't for me, though I'm going to court for a lidar ticket here in TX so I guess you just can't have it all. Was in a damn Volvo too...

 

Ill let you know the weights when I go to install them.

[Ridgeracer]

Probably negotiable weight difference...

[ClimberDHexMods]

Probably negotiable weight difference...

 

I tried negotiating with it but had to get out the hammer in the end.

 

TIA for the measurements!!!

 

Can you weigh before and after? Very interested. Unspeung weight is not something to ignore IMO, but that's up to the individual owner

[m sprank]

Climber,

 

I never weighed them. But in my hands they felt the same. I noticed no major difference in weight that would make me go, hmmm.

 

The strut body is rarely considered when figuring unsprung weight. Most worry more about all the other components. I do too. I would lose the heavy battery and wheels before worrying if the strut bodies were 2lbs heavier each. Thats 8lbs total.

 

A stock 08 SpecB wheel weighs in at over 25lbs. My RPF-1's are 17lbs each. I lost 32lbs of unsprung weight with the wheels alone, LOL.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I don't disagree. When I finally post about weight, things like battery and wheels will be the least of it

 

For now, I just want to know the exact weight difference between KWs and Koni assemblies. Thinking about softening up things since it's just a street car, but don't want to regret it after dropping $800. Weight and many other factors are coming into consideration. Much of the weight of the stock strut is in the lower (unsprung) part AFAIK. Not good for bumps. I know rotors can do a huge amount to lower unsprung weight as well as wheels, but logically doing everything else does not excuse or nullify the weight of struts

 

Hmmm, does someone have balls and/or welding skills crazy enough to try to flip the koni insert upside down and make a frankenstein assembly Partially joking.