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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Goodness that looks great! What are the wheel specs?

 

They’re just Rota Tarmac 3’s 18x8 +48.

 

Finally washed the car today, but it is raining tomorrow so unfortunately not going to drive it again for a bit. I forgot that I have big black brake calipers now and unfortunately got my wheel and tire cleaner on them, leaving a white residue on the passenger side. Gonna have to take the wheel off and clean it off by hand.

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No, I don't have that setup. On my other car, I played with hybrid boost controller, but it didn't do much for my setup.

 

My other car has an EJ207 with a Dom 3, so I don't have the problems with full-boost-part-throttle. On that car, full boost is at something like 4.5K, so you either want to run to redline or you don't, and shift earlier. So for that car, it's just controlling max boost, and an MBC works fine.

 

On my OBXT, I'm running the VF52 with the standard Romraider tables, stock boost controller, and IWG. On this car, I've found that it: (1) naturally wants to overboost in the mid-range, (2) and doesn't hold boost up top. Playing with the turbo dynamics tables helps, but it still doesn't get it to hold boost up top (anything over 17psi). So that's why I'm curious about your setup. I think it's a very smart way to approach a setup that presents two different problems. If it works, maybe I'll give it a try, but I'm really trying to keep this one stock-ish. Keep us posted!

 

Ah, gotcha!

 

Initial results from "tuning" it tonight indicate the spring pressure it too low. I had swapped in the 10PSI combo before installing it (target boost =< 2x spring pressure method), but that doesn't seem to be enough. Adjustment in the midrange was fairly linear up to ~16psi, and it kind of hit a wall. It took 3psi of adjustment to get to ~17psi. It's also tapering fairly aggressively above 4500 RPM, dropping down to 12.75psi around 6K RPM before rising back up to 13.25psi at redline.

 

So I guess I'll try the 14psi spring again and see what that does. Unfortunately it'll decease the "gain" of the control system, so it'll start cracking earlier and have a looser set point. It's also a massive pain the the ass to change the spring.... :spin:

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Nice, can I get a full frontal? I've been toying with the idea of picking up that lip to add a little more something to the front end.

 

I don't have one currently but I'll grab a couple photos today and DM you!

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Black WRX sun visors and JDM STI mufflers (quad tips) came in the mail yesterday. Dropped them off at the shop this morning and got a good look at the finished black head liner, super sexy. Unfortunately was in a rush and didn't take any pictures.

 

Itching to get it back as I have a new turbo inlet, silicon bpv and a bunch of silicon vacuum lines I've been eager to install myself.

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Bought a thing. Fully rebuilt IPT 5EAT with 10K miles

 

Is that the one that was on CL for a while?

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Itching to get it back as I have a new turbo inlet, silicon bpv and a bunch of silicon vacuum lines I've been eager to install myself.

 

Given the nature of the job, I wouldn’t be as eager to install a new turbo inlet. But I assume you still have the block out of the car, so it should be much easier to wrestle with those hardened rubber lines.

 

I think I need to turn my rotors after installing the Wilwoods. I have a groove in the DBAs that is looking like it’s causing uneven temperatures.

 

My birthday is coming up next week and I think I’m going to treat myself to some new wheels instead of coils. (Shout out to boxkita and white tiger for the advice) Really like the NT03s... but gold or silver? I truly cannot decide yet. I have the silver eyelids and the JDM exhaust finishers so I feel like silver would look better. Although gold on white has really grown on me. It’s less noticeable when it’s covered in brake dust. It just turns into more of a bronze than a gold. Going to likely pair them with some cheap Federal RSRRs. 255 wide sounds real good to me...

Edited by Notorious
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Given the nature of the job, I wouldn’t be as eager to install a new turbo inlet. But I assume you still have the block out of the car, so it should be much easier to wrestle with those hardened rubber lines.

 

I think I need to turn my rotors after installing the Wilwoods. I have a groove in the DBAs that is looking like it’s causing uneven temperatures.

 

My birthday is coming up next week and I think I’m going to treat myself to some new wheels instead of coils. (Shout out to boxkita and white tiger for the advice) Really like the NT03s... but gold or silver? I truly cannot decide yet. I have the silver eyelids and the JDM exhaust finishers so I feel like silver would look better. Although gold on white has really grown on me. It’s less noticeable when it’s covered in brake dust. It just turns into more of a bronze than a gold. Going to likely pair them with some cheap Federal RSRRs. 255 wide sounds real good to me...

 

Treat yo self! I say silver for the cohesiveness, but I'm also a fan of gold on white.

 

It's the not the job I'm eager about, it's the hands on learning and experience along with improving the car. I'll only be adding power and modifying more in the future so I need/want to learn to do what I can to keep it running right and maintenance costs down. Block is in the car and has never been removed since I've owned it. I'll also be pulling the intake manifold at the same time to replace the intake gaskets. Gonna be a long, slow weekend full of firsts when the time comes.

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Whelp, having white wheels shows tell tale signs. Noticed some grease on my inner barrels and looks like both my front inner CV boots are leaking. Ordered some new boot kits so I can address things before they get worse
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExErl9NM77M]EWG = Antisocial - YouTube[/ame]

 

I think this EWG thing is the most anti-social thing I've ever done.

:hide:

 

I want to get a really quiet exhaust now (borla?), because WOT will take care of any anti social urges and more...

 

On fixing the boost taper, I've been reading about alternative ways of plumbing the EWG vs going through the pain of changing the spring. This would be super easy with a 4-port solenoid on the ECU's wastegate solenoid output, but that would defeat the whole quiet at part boost thing with the IWG. It looks like you can use a pressure relief valve on the lower port (basically what my grimmspeed MBC is) along with a pressure regulator on the top port. The pressure regulate will apply a fixed pressure to the top port the first time you go into boost, which will allow the MBC on the bottom port to essentially go negative. And if you use a releaving pressure regulator your gain stays the same as well, so you'll have tighter control and less early opening.

 

McMaster car sells a cool panel mount back-pressure (99045K11) and pressure regulator (43275k16) valves that would be perfect for this, but maybe I should just go change the damn spring instead of mad scientisting something this time....

Edited by utc_pyro
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More parts have shown up from rock auto. Continuing the suspension collection new ball joints and tie rod ends have shown up. Also new felpro permatorque headgaskets which will be going on my build engine.

 

This is going to be a busy summer with this car, I may need an AC unit in my garage :lol:

1667090518_balljointsandtierodends.thumb.jpg.c711a2c4e14da826622aa78c25631dd9.jpg

966412521_headgaskets.thumb.jpg.29bd868d2bfecd491b5733fcb2ab1593.jpg

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Changed the battery and terminal ends, ran some new grounds, and cleaned the dash on Eleanor/Christine. Still chasing down a P2109. Anyone have any tips for that one? Should I just order a new accelerator pedal assembly?
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Changed the battery and terminal ends, ran some new grounds, and cleaned the dash on Eleanor/Christine. Still chasing down a P2109. Anyone have any tips for that one? Should I just order a new accelerator pedal assembly?

 

If the electronic parts cleaner and dielectric grease didn’t work, I’d grease it up one more time. You can’t really put too much. If it still comes back, new sensor or pedal assembly. Easier to just get new assembly.

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Didn't do anything to mine, but it did something to me. Sent me a not-so-subtle sign that I should probably get around to installing the rest of my pile-o-suspension now that it's warm, when my steering rack puked and a trailing arm bushing started squeaking like crazy all at once. Good thing I'm driving to Wisconsin on Friday :spin:
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Tonight I messed with the USBtin CANBUS analyzer I have wired into the high speed bus for the first time. I wired it in when I put in the aquamist system last year, but never had a reason to go poking around until this EWG stuff. I found this DIY Electronic Boost Controller development blog (which was eventually developed into a commercial product), and wondered if I could branch that into almost a piggyback ECU just for boost management. Instead of running a bunch of extra wires why not tap into the CANBus: Throttle position, engine speed, gears, and even shift data is already known to be there with much defined by the Subaru Diesel Crew. The only thing missing to make this work is boost pressure.

 

The canbus monitor tool the USBtin comes with sucks, but reviewing a video I shot of it while starting the car I found what I was looking for: manifold absolute pressure!

 

CanSource: ECU

CanID: 0x601

Bit: 7

Units: KPA

Update interval: 100ms

 

It may be atmospherically compensated, as it started at exactly 100KPA with the motor off and ~55KPA.

 

The only thing I'm worried about before investing a ton of time into this is if the 10hz refresh rate will be fast enough.

Edited by utc_pyro
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Well, this evening starting at 9:30 pm I started my suspension install of my new to me coilovers. Soooo I found my passenger side inner tie rod is blown, so back on rock auto and I said f it and ordered the pair. Might as well do both while I'm doing both outers and ball joints before getting the old bitch properly aligned.
08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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