Notorious

A full list of parts would probably be ideal before we can say anything certain. But if those 3 you mentioned are the main parts replaced, you can probably drive it 5-10 miles to the shop and stay out of boost without much worry. It’s your AFRs under load that you need to be really mindful of since the car is going to overboost without the restriction of the stock exhaust parts but it can’t adjust the fuel for the increase in air. Are you tuning with an access port? You can load the Stage 2 OTS tune and be safe for a while but I wouldn’t drive it around town every day without a proper tune.

If your hose has never been replaced, it’s probably hard as a rock. Can you remove it with one finger? Time for a new hose. There is a dampener in the middle of that line so it is probably only a few inches long and an easy replacement. I also use a small zip tie on mine.

They bolt right up just fine. Wires are the same. I have post-facelift JDM mirrors and I bought the wiring kit off someone on here. Just remember the JDM mirrors are much smaller.

I don’t have the same car, but Card-one makes “heavy duty” reman axles. I have them on my car and they work fine. But honestly axles is just part of the the drift car life you’re living if you’re using an older subaru. Tires, axles, and brake pads are just maintenance items probably.

Thank you, I actually did this twice because I twisted the rod the wrong way. But the clutch feels way better now with the engagement point closer to the middle. Clutch also feels a little softer, which I don't like but I'd rather have drivability in stop-go traffic. High engagement point was super annoying for a few days. My OmniPower 3-bar MAP sensor was faulty so I had to go back and have the shop retune the car with the stock MAP sensor. I will be returning it which saves me $100. We are only boosting to 17psi (405whp/430wtq) so the stock MAP sensor should be fine for now. The ECU was reading out +8psi at idle and occassionally -20 at idle so I knew the MAP sensor was faulty. Also washed and detailed the car today which felt good to do since the car has been sitting for a few months. Feels like a blast to drive but I can't help but wonder how much the motor could be pushed when I upgrade to a 6MT. 400+ whp at 17psi on E85 is pretty impressive considering I had to run 20psi on 91 just to reach 300. Ethanol here is kind of bad though, sensor reads 72%.

Shop didn’t put refrigerant back in the lines so I did that today. Driving with the ACT Xtreme Stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel is taking a while to get used to. The engagement point is so high now. Probably 70% from the bottom of the floor which is drastically different from before which seemed like maybe 20%… Is there any easy clutch engagement point adjustments?

throttle body looks clean as a whistle… suddenly the idle issues doesn’t present itself when the car is warming up. I’ll see if it comes back after a couple miles

Just got the car back from the shop after finishing a hack-job flex fuel tune (car made 405whp on 17psi on E85 btw) but we stumbled into an issue where the car’s idle creeps up… They told me there were no vacuum leaks and it’s not the tune so they suspect a dirty/faulty throttle body. I was going to contact the previous owner of the engine if they had any clue about this but I doubt I’d get a response. Has anyone had any of experience with idle creep? It happens when the car is cold or warm but it seems to have been getting worse. Shop told me it would creep up to 1.5k but I’m seeing it closer to 2k now. I’m thinking I should clean the throttle body and if that doesn’t work, I’ll transplant my old throttle body off the old intake manifold.

It is probably the same ratio, since you don’t see anybody here upgrading to a Spec B steering rack.

I’m sure the headliner would probably have to be pulled out. Which would be trickier in a sedan vs. a wagon.

I am currently awaiting to pickup my car after being tuned on Flex Fuel. Basically the only way to do it was to use IAT compensation tables to account for the different mixtures of ethanol. I’ll need to ask more details but there’s no way that they could clear the CELs due to no TGVs and we also cannot data log Wideband AFR’s into the access port so they tune it off the gauge in the car. Not sure how comfortable I feel about the tune honestly. I might chill for a few years until more shops embrace open source tuning and go that road after I look for more power (with a 6speed swap too hopefully). This is just truly terrible timing because they started tuning my car 2 days before the Cobb update. If I got the car there just a week sooner I could have avoided this completely!

Just remember if you’re going with the 15+ STI steering rack, you will have to trim the ends a couple threads for any usable alignment wiggle room. It’s all explained on the thread on here.

Built motor with forged pistons, crank, bearings, ARP head studs, ported and polished heads, KillerB pickup, STI oil pump, etc. with custom JmP 20G, Cobb Flex fuel kit, 1050x injectors, Grimmspeed CAI, RacerX FMIC, CNT catless down pipe, and Tomei ELH/up pipe. 5MT fluids were replaced 10k miles ago and I have an ACT Xtreme Stage 2 clutch as well. Couple of other things I'm probably forgetting but those are probably the most important ones lol I do plan on getting a 6-speed in the future as the last possible upgrade on the car left... But, I only drive this car maybe 700 miles annually as it is just a fun weekend car (I daily drive a Honda Accord). So I told them to treat is as if it were their weekend car. I am asking for a conservative and an aggressive map that I can switch between but there really is no point.

We are making 348whp on 91 octane right now on the dyno. Still got a few more dyno sessions to dial in with full E85 but they were impressed with the numbers so far and are genuinely scared if the transmission can handle the 450 ballpark I suggested. I told them as long as the car runs happy, I’m happy… With the Cobb updates it might take them a bit longer to finish the Flex fuel capabilities. I might give another update later today if we get it dialed in.

For what its worth, I've used one of the universal turbo blanket strips and stuffed it in between a Perrin heat shield and it worked fine. Overkill probably even

You need a new tune because the intercooler dramatically changes how the turbo spools. It’s always advised to retune.

Yep, we ended up just using some OEM lines instead and it fit. Just need to install the Aeromotive FPR tomorrow and things are looking good.

FWIW, I used H&R lowering springs on KYB struts and it was honestly the most perfect ride setup I’ve ever experienced in a Subaru. I replaced them with JDM coils due to fitment issues but I miss the feel of those springs and struts. Not rough but super responsive when you needed it on the spirited backroads.

The problem is the Dual Climate AC controls are connected to the same unit as the radio on the GT models. Non GT models have a single zone AC which is different as well. You’d need the Double DIN kit (dual zone) to install anything aftermarket related to the radio.

I may have a used VF52 available soon if interested.

JmP 20g. Not sure what the move is, but we'll tackle this problem again tomorrow. Maybe we can rotate the line parallel with the other but I doubt it would work. Other solution is to use a different line kit but this turbo has sort of unique dimensions. I've contacted John as well and we'll see what we can think of. Didn't think this would be an issue out of all the things being installed haha

Anyone see something wrong here? ….

Haven’t been on here in a while for a lot of reasons… but I just took a trip to the shop to drop off the last remaining parts necessary for them to install my forged motor with a JmP 20g and flex fuel. Dyno tune day should be maybe next week and I’m curious to see how far they’ll wanna push into the 400hp+ threshold considering I still have a 5speed instead of the 6speed. Whatever happens, happens lol

Usually it would show multiple results. Typing in "site:legacygt.com build thread" should show at least 20 different links considering the amount of build threads there are on this forum but only one pops up using google. Edit: I wonder if it has anything to do with this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/update-ssl-tls-certificate-286645.html vBulletin is an ancient forum software, perhaps the website is just getting outdated and unsupported by other plugins the website uses, etc. Edit 2: Also found this from google which may explain it... https://support.google.com/webmasters/answer/7489871?hl=en#zippy=%2Cthis-is-my-site%2Cthe-page-is-blocked-by-robotstxt There is a link at the bottom of the google search that allows you to include ommitted search results which does show multiple links from the website but the thread title and content is hidden until you commit to clicking the link.

So, I typically used google to find old useful threads on here but I just realized that google search is not helping at all anymore because the search results do not show a list of links from the forums. I typically google something like “legacy guy.com engine removal” and the first result that shows up would be the engine removal thread but it does not come up with a google search anymore. I find that vBulletin search feature to be mediocre at best and usually google was the best way to quickly find relative information on the website. The result of this means that you need an account to conveniently search through the forums since the search feature on the website has a timeout. Is this maybe on purpose? Any of the website admins want to chime in on this? Did something change? Is there something wrong with the website crawlers that are supposed to help get the website links on google? Or is this just me?