boxkita Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 For the west coasters, WCSS is a go this year for September 13 & 14. Watch their social media for updates. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 The "how do I get fender flares?" thread has a possible solution for those of you who didn't know you wanted to run wider tires. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fender-flaresiii-255382.html Madrig of awesome CF crafting has joined the thread. Feel free to voice your support. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 Almost positive I have boost leak somewhere. Car used to pull strong from 2.5K right after I put it together after 6MT swap, now the 3.5K is the new norm. I had Cobb turbo inlet and Cobb TMIC to throtle body hose installed when I put the car together, the turbo inlet looks tight but the TMIC to TB hose was not as flexible as stock, I assume it might have moved.  Is shifting turbo lag line a typical sign of boost leak? First time I have an issue like that. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrho Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 Almost positive I have boost leak somewhere. Car used to pull strong from 2.5K right after I put it together after 6MT swap, now the 3.5K is the new norm. I had Cobb turbo inlet and Cobb TMIC to throtle body hose installed when I put the car together, the turbo inlet looks tight but the TMIC to TB hose was not as flexible as stock, I assume it might have moved.  Is shifting turbo lag line a typical sign of boost leak? First time I have an issue like that. Could it be a sticking wastegate issue? I've never had a boost leak shift when turbo lag ended before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 Pretty sure I blew out my intercooler last night, I'm hitting boost just fine but get a funny sound like air squeezing out a balloon when you pull the nozzle part just after 8psi. I just have no time to fix it before the weekend.  If you can see this video, let me know what you think.... https://www.facebook.com/2freedom/videos/10161978984235096/ 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 ^ Your video is not available right now... Check the tabs around the plastic end tanks on your OEM tmic. if they all don't look tightly crimped...that's your issue. Common with a stock tmic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 What a day! About 1130 - Replaced low beam bulbs with Sylvania XtraVision H7s About 1145 - Washed it. Washed it good! ........... Remember the Osram 65W 2100 lumen H7 bulbs? They have been out of production for a few years. But Daniel Stern is having the equivalent bulb manufactured in Germany, and they are supposed to be available some time this month.  From his website: Update, May 13 2019: After a great deal of work, I have secured new availability of first-quality, German-made 65w - 2100 lumen H7 bulbs. They are presently being manufactured and I expect to have them on shelf in June.  http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html#H765 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Car failed smog today. Really bummed about it because it delays a lot of plans (new wheels, lots of parts to replace/install).  The reason it failed was because my battery died and readiness monitors weren’t set (purchased a Yellowtop Optima Battery today on amazon for $250), I left the front mount intercooler on and they picked on me for it not being in the stock location even though that affects nothing related to smog, and they mentioned the red wire I used for my wideband O2 sensor (which was not wired in by the way) and said I can’t be tapping into those wires.  Between now and Saturday I have to find some time in the late night to replace that wire with some black wire instead and remove the front mount intercooler piping, or at least some of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shootz Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 This week what has been accomplished: 1. Swapped out my winter wheel/tires with my all season on stock OBXT rims. (Had the tires balanced too, thank goodness it's better at speed! 2. Installed front JDM STI 4-pot calipers, new rotors, and StopTec Pads 3. Bled entire brake system (It's been since 2016 since that was done) 4. Painted all calipers a nice, shiny red 5. Installed whiteline diff bushings (KDT903, easiest install in a while) 6. Checked the oil, we're good 7. Got the right pressures in all my tires, free compressor @ Kum&Go across the street 8. Fixed an exhaust leak at rear exhaust to muffler flanges (needed a new gasket) 9. Installed a red map light on the driver's side so I can see things when it's dark and not lose night vision. 10. Ordered Innovate Oil Temp/Pressure Gauge and all needed couplers/connectors 11. Ordered Koni front adjustable strut inserts (I will be fabbing these up to my OBXT fronts to maintain stock height, I'll just need some longer attachment screws for the bottom of the struts. 12. Ordered a JDM front grille to replace my stocker 13. Thought about a new front sway bar... might get the tribeca one that's bigger than my stocker. 14. Greased-up front sway bar bushings and endlinks (I have zerts on all of these) Last week: 1. Installed 'new' junkyard crossbars for my roof rack (messed the last one up w/ the top-mounted bike I destroyed driving into the garage last Aug.) 2. Installed new heater blower, the last one whined loudly... this one just blows  Still to install: * Koni front strut inserts * LGT Steering Rack and whiteline bushings * Wiring for the LLBean steering wheel I have for radio controls * Wire fogs for always on * Sand/polish-up front headlights and apply clear-coat * Install boost gauge/oil press/temp gauge in vent pod in car. Next level... * Rewire the rear fuel pump for better voltage/performance * Need tuning for my car (Need new injectors/fuel pump) * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Damn if I got 1/2 of that done in 2 weeks I'd be happy. Great work!! 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninjacheezit Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Getting ready for my dyno next week did a few small things. Cut the atmospheric pressure sensor to make it smaller. Fix a coolant leak from the oil cooler hose. Glad I went over a few things before my dyno day that coolant leak would of been bad to show up with. Didn’t leak at idle but it started spraying while I rev up the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southygarage Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Filled it for the 3rd time. Since I got the brake lines done it's been pretty solid. It had an oil leak, best I can tell it's coming from the oil pan gasket.. yaaaay Sent from my Z999 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Notorious Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Installed a new Optima Yellowtop Battery today and drove it to work to get the emissions readiness monitors set. $250 on Amazon is still better than whatever any of the parts stores were offering even with the old battery in as a core. Only option cheaper was AdvancedAuto with a 15% off coupon but it would’ve taken too long to get here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.n.bastaki Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Pulled out the axles to see if they are rebuildable or not.  Intentional camera angle to capture the vette.   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Could it be a sticking wastegate issue? I've never had a boost leak shift when turbo lag ended before Went to check for boost leak last night with my middle son and what we found wasn't the leak, but rather lack of boost. The wastegate pivot arm separated from the actuator and wastegate was just flipping freely around. No wonder car felt anemic! This happenned while the car was in possession of my oldest son for a week, and he complained that it went down on power on him on the way back home. My guess is that the clip holding it all together rusted out and just fell off when vacuum was moving the actuator around.    Applied quick ghetto fix, went for a test drive with middle son. WOW. It's scary fast, pulls like crazy from 2.5K. We were giggling all the way out and back home!  2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 13. Thought about a new front sway bar... might get the tribeca one that's bigger than my stocker.  Karma made you put it as #13 on your list. Tribeca's FSB does NOT fit turbo engines, only NAs. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Went to check for boost leak last night with my middle son and what we found wasn't the leak, but rather lack of boost. The wastegate pivot arm separated from the actuator and wastegate was just flipping freely around. No wonder car felt anemic! This happenned while the car was in possession of my oldest son for a week, and he complained that it went down on power on him on the way back home. My guess is that the clip holding it all together rusted out and just fell off when vacuum was moving the actuator around.    Applied quick ghetto fix, went for a test drive with middle son. WOW. It's scary fast, pulls like crazy from 2.5K. We were giggling all the way out and back home!   You may be able to find the correct E clip in the set from Harbor Fright. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 I just had my replacement PF01 wheels installed. Much nicer than the damaged ones. Now I have two spare wheels as well. I might buy a cheap 245/40/17 tire and have a full sized spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) Second time in the past week or two that I've had engine oil coming back from the engine area to my transmission drain plug, it looks like it's coming straight back. no idea where it's coming from, cleaned up underneath and will check again in a few days or something. Is it common for oil pans to leak on these cars, and have the oil go back towards the transmission? Clutch and rear main seal were replaced by a subaru dealership in September. I noticed in the past that engine oil was leaking from somewhere under my car, but never back towards the transmission like this. So I'm worried that it's the rear main seal they installed leaking, but if it was leaking before and I didn't have oil coming back to the transmission like this, maybe it's coming from somewhere else, or just leaking worse now. Thinking about putting some uv dye in my oil, but I don't know if that will help me pinpoint the leak since it's always been blocked by the motor mounts and crossmember. Gunshy about replacing the oil pan gasket and seeing what it does after breaking multiple heatshield bolts recently, last thing I want to do is have oil pan bolts break on me, though I'll be a little more ginger this time.  *Going to replace the pcv first even though I periodically clean it, maybe too much pressure pushing oil out past rear main seal?  PCV didn't do jack. Cleaned/inspected half a dozen times, no idea where it's coming from. Rear main seal? Oil separator plate? Left/right head gasket? Oil pan gasket? Oil comes back towards the transmission drain plug, and also comes down the rear of the oil pan.  Don't want to pull the engine, don't want to blindly reseal oil pan and risk damaging it during removal, or damage something else by accident. So.. I did something I never thought I'd do. Got a can of liqui moly motor oil saver at napa, threw that in my oil today. It's supposed to slightly swell seals and gaskets to stop leaks, we'll see, it has good reviews on amazon. I know what you're probably thinking, but my car is probably only worth 2-3k, so I figure why not try it.. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2020-Motor-Saver/dp/B00CPL8WY8/ Edited June 8, 2019 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 I just had my replacement PF01 wheels installed. Much nicer than the damaged ones. Now I have two spare wheels as well. I might buy a cheap 245/40/17 tire and have a full sized spare. I had to mount my spare for the first time in forever the other day and was thinking I should just throw one of my old spare LGT wheels in the trunk. Thanks for reminding me. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrho Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 So got a trade request for my 18x9.5 et38 Work Emotion CR Kiwami for a set of 18x10 et36 Rotiform TMB 2 Piece wheels (pictured below). Although I really like how my current set up looks with the white, I do love me some dish and like the fact that the Rotiforms are a forged wheel as well. Decisions, decisions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shootz Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Karma made you put it as #13 on your list. Tribeca's FSB does NOT fit turbo engines, only NAs.  Thanks for the heads-up!!!! Is there a non-expensive option for us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Cleared memory 2 through FreeSSM...again. With the warmer weather the 5EAT seems to revert back to slide/bang quicker these days (just over 3 weeks since the last reset). I may have to get into replacing the turbine speed sensor sooner than later. Wish I had a clutch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvnmaniac Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Tried to have my summer tires installed on ROTA Tarmac 3s. Get to NTB and then was told they didn't have the machine to install 40 series tires. My tires 235/40/18 Firestone 500s were delivered to them last Tuesday. Why were they just realizing they couldn't install them ERRRR! So irritating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Thanks for the heads-up!!!! Is there a non-expensive option for us? I would look in FS threads for used ones , they are inexpensive now. Iirc white line still makes new ones. I had good luck with perrin FSB on my wagon. If you still have stock rsb do that first, much better benefit from that compared to fsb.  Also with aftermarket sway bars it's good idea to change to solid end links such as Kartboy. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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